Evac Leak Fumes in car.

Xterminator03

Member
Sep 23, 2004
157
0
16
NEW YORK
I have a 99 GT

Taking a road trip from NY to FL. I made a stop in SC and eveything was fine the next day I wake up jump in the car and the service engine light goes on. I Stop at Autozone they read the code and tell me its an Evac Leak.

Check the Gas Cap seems to be working fine.

AS I was driving I had the A/c on and you can smell the gas fumes in the car.

ANy Help please im far from home and I still have to make it to Tampa Florida, and MPG was great for now 22MPG I need to keep it up
 
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Check for any leaks in your vaccuum lines to maybe see the cause for the idle issues. Does the car feel like it is missing or hesitating? It could be the filler neck grommet in your gas tank just let go, letting in air into the fuel system. But once you get the actual code post it up here.
 
SemperFIGOD:

The charcoal canister may be cracked or a hose has split. The canister is in the passenger wheel well behind the plastic liner.

***edit***
wmburns provided the CORRECT info for your vehicle:

" ... the 1999-2004 model year the Charcoal canister is located behind the left rear wheel near the gas tank. The Vapor Management valve (VMV) is located in the front right wheel well area.

For the 1998 and older, the charcoal canister is located in the front right wheel well area."

***end of edit***

The jumpy idle is due to unmetered air entering the system through the open vac line (or canister).

Code number(s) will help narrow things down.

Lastly, run a search and find a thread by "wmburns". I think he had a good troubleshooting procedure for this problem.

Chris
 
Check the where the filler neck enters into the gas tank. The sealing grommet will dry up and crack allowing gas fumes to escape. Look for signs of raw gas on the outside of the tank. Esp after a fill-up.

Also check the filler neck itself for rusting through. Esp under the plastic guard that is sometimes installed on the filler neck.

Check the vacuum line from the intake to the right hand fender well.
 
Check the where the filler neck enters into the gas tank. The sealing grommet will dry up and crack allowing gas fumes to escape. Look for signs of raw gas on the outside of the tank. Esp after a fill-up.

Also check the filler neck itself for rusting through. Esp under the plastic guard that is sometimes installed on the filler neck.

Check the vacuum line from the intake to the right hand fender well.

My stang smells like gas a lot, I cant fill it up over 1/3 of the way before this grommet starts leaking and if I make sharp turns it leaks worse. I get an intermittent evaporative emissions control (p0442 or something like that) light that has no rhyme or reason. I'm hoping that pesky grommet is the key to my issues, I checked it out the other day and its dripping wet with 1/4 tank in it, but it seems to be the issue that the OP may be having too.

In order to check the charcoal canister, for the 94-98 SN85 you have to remove the inner passenger side fender liner to get at it, not sure if its in the same place on newer stangs.
 
SemperFIGOD:

The charcoal canister may be cracked or a hose has split. The canister is in the passenger wheel well behind the plastic liner.
FWIIW for the 1999-2004 model year the Charcoal canister is located behind the left rear wheel near the gas tank. The Vapor Management valve (VMV) is located in the front right wheel well area.

For the 1998 and older, the charcoal canister is located in the front right wheel well area.

To the OP: if you can actually smell gas inside the car, look for RAW gas leaking somewhere. From my own experience I know that a raw gas leak on the outside of the tank may give the smell of gas inside the car. Do not limit the search to just the front of the car.
 
FWIIW for the 1999-2004 model year the Charcoal canister is located behind the left rear wheel near the gas tank. The Vapor Management valve (VMV) is located in the front right wheel well area.

For the 1998 and older, the charcoal canister is located in the front right wheel well area.

wmwburns: :flag:

Thank you very much for posting the correct info for SemperFIGOD (and others). I will edit my post (above).

Chris
 
P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected

Any progress regarding narrowing down the source of the gas fumes?

>>From Ford service CD
P0455 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (No Purge Flow or Large Leak)

The PCM monitors the complete EVAP control system for no purge flow, the presence of a large fuel vapor leak or multiple small fuel vapor leaks. The system failure occurs when no purge flow (attributed to fuel vapor blockages or restrictions), a large fuel vapor leak or multiple fuel vapor leaks are detected by the EVAP running loss monitor test with the engine running (but not at idle).

  • After-market EVAP hardware (such as fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required specifications
  • Disconnected or cracked fuel EVAP canister tube, EVAP canister purge outlet tube or EVAP return tube
  • EVAP canister purge valve stuck closed
  • Damaged EVAP canister
  • Damaged or missing fuel filler cap
  • Insufficient fuel filler cap installation
  • Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP system components
  • Blockages or restrictions in fuel vapor hoses/tubes (items also listed under disconnections or cracks)
  • Fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve assembly blocked
  • Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck open
  • Mechanically inoperative fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor
Check for audible vacuum noise or significant fuel odor in the engine compartment or near the EVAP canister and fuel tank.
 
I think i figured out In the charcol canister, there are two lines one with a white connector and one with a green connector the white one is broken and not sealing property. any idea how much this cost, what is this piece called and is it a dealer item.
 
Mr Burns, think you could pull a code for me as well? I'd love to have a CD like that. I think its p0441 or p0442..I cant remember though it was evaporative emission control. Since I reset my computer 3 weeks ago it hasnt come on since, which is strange. The grommet is going in in a week or two.
 
Well I went to the dealership to order the part they dont have it and its on back order till August. I order it from a junk yard they will be shipping soon. in the meantime I basicly taped the connector so that there is no more leak. i disconnected the battery both sides. turned the car on. No surging idle no smell of fumes in the car but still have the check engine light on.
 
P0442 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected

Mr Burns, think you could pull a code for me as well? I'd love to have a CD like that. I think its p0441 or p0442..I cant remember though it was evaporative emission control. Since I reset my computer 3 weeks ago it hasnt come on since, which is strange. The grommet is going in in a week or two.
P0442 is a small leak. Not sure why you need this if you KNOW the filler neck is leaking. Remember that the Evap test does not run all that often. As a result it may take awhile to throw a DTC even if the condition is still happening. For some tests, the PCM looks for two failures in a row before throwing a check engine light.

P0442 - EVAP Control System Leak Detected (Small Leak)

The PCM monitors the complete EVAP control system for presence of a small fuel vapor leak. The system failure occurs when a fuel vapor leak from an opening as small as 1.016 mm (0.04 inch) is detected by the EVAP running loss monitor test.

  • After-market EVAP hardware (such as fuel filler cap) non-conforming to required specifications
  • Small holes or cuts in fuel vapor hoses/tubes
  • Canister vent solenoid stays partially open on closed command
  • Damaged, cross-threaded or loosely installed fuel filler cap
  • Loose fuel vapor hose/tube connections to EVAP system components
  • EVAP system component seals leaking (EVAP canister purge valve, fuel tank pressure sensor, canister vent solenoid, fuel vapor control valve tube assembly or fuel vapor vent valve assembly)
 
Burns, thanks for humoring me, everything I looked up on the web said it was a probable fault in the control solenoid somewhere and I've never found one for sale or referenced in any manual. With the gasket so easy to physically replace, I KNOW getting the tank dropped is going to be a nightmare, i'm sure the bolts are rusted into a solid lump and 98% of the job is going to be trying to get it all apart. Just wanted to have that final push to go ahead and get it done.