If I was going with an aftermarket block (which is the plan eventually), I'd go big bore. In other words, BB 347 or 363, none of this 331 stuff.
What needs to be done to my 5.0 to keep up with 11 5.0's
- Thread starter russ1979
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If you build a 351 motor right you can still save gas mileage, to me its just really a waste buying a 2000+ dollar block that maxes out at 363ish cubes when the one that can be made 460ish cubes is the same price. Not to mention the fact that more cubes=more power=more fun. fast with no blower or turbo=less headaches cause you have a naturally aspirated motor
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
***ing stout HCI + tires + 4.10's or better + driver mod + 100 shot and you should put a couple lengths on one, they have been trapping 115 range with just a tune and cai.
Here's my $.02....
I was looking into building a W for the car this winter, but I found that going 351+, even though the parts are relatively the same cost as a 302, represents a much larger initial investment. It's mostly because you have to swap EVERYTHING at once. It's like starting from scratch. With a 302 based motor, you can keep your headers, keep your distributor, keep your intake, etc, etc. Build a Windsor and all that stuff becomes useless, regardless if you go mild or wild with the longblock. You're looking at about a grand in just swap parts, and that's not including the bigger top end needed to feed a Windsor.
Don't get me wrong, if I had a bigger budget, I'd go NA Windsor in a heartbeat.
Notchbck93
New Member
You best bet will be to set up the suspension now.
upper and lowers
alum driveshaft
dial in the pinion angle
Shocks and struts
Let's face it, if you can't plant 170-ish rwhp, you certainly won't be able to plant anything more than that.
Looking at the mph of a new GT, 111+ is pretty stout.
I would think a set of AFR 185's, Anderson cam, RPMII Edel should get you in that mph range on a 331.
upper and lowers
alum driveshaft
dial in the pinion angle
Shocks and struts
Let's face it, if you can't plant 170-ish rwhp, you certainly won't be able to plant anything more than that.
Looking at the mph of a new GT, 111+ is pretty stout.
I would think a set of AFR 185's, Anderson cam, RPMII Edel should get you in that mph range on a 331.
Here's my $.02....
I was looking into building a W for the car this winter, but I found that going 351+, even though the parts are relatively the same cost as a 302, represents a much larger initial investment. It's mostly because you have to swap EVERYTHING at once. It's like starting from scratch. With a 302 based motor, you can keep your headers, keep your distributor, keep your intake, etc, etc. Build a Windsor and all that stuff becomes useless, regardless if you go mild or wild with the longblock. You're looking at about a grand in just swap parts, and that's not including the bigger top end needed to feed a Windsor.
Don't get me wrong, if I had a bigger budget, I'd go NA Windsor in a heartbeat.
I hear what you are saying, but if you build a 331/347 your 302 headers and intake are going to be too small, you will probly end up with an aftermarket oil pan, and its dowbtful that you are putting worn out stock mounts back on a brand new motor. The only thing i could think of being a total wash with the swap is the distributor.
I'm just speaking from expierience, i could have been alot faster with a larger motor for the same or even less money, what you could do is piece things together while the 302 is still in the car so you have the best of both worlds... still driving the car and not spending an assload of money all at once.
That works if you have patience, haha. For me, slowly piecing together a Windsor would mean my Fox is a high 13/low 14 car for another season... Which just won't do.
Don't forget that the 400 lbs weight savings on the 92 hatch. Since the general rule of thumb is that each 100 lbs less weight is good for .1 second lower ET, that helps equalize the playing field.
The 2011 5.0 Mustang posted 3620 lbs curb weight and 412 HP. That figures out to be 8.78 lbs per flywheel HP.
To get the same Weight to HP ratio on a 3200 lbs, 92 Mustang Hatch, you need 364 flywheel HP. For a N/A 302 based block engine, that looks like a very healthy 331 or 347 stroker. Add NO2 or pressurized induction to a stock bore and stroke 5.0 with a good H/C/I setup and you are there with less $$$ spent on the engine.
Some sticky street drag radials could lower the HP requirement to achieve the same or better ET as the 2011 5.0 Mustang.
For a peek at the 2011 5.0's performance numbers, see 2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Full Test and Video
The 2011 5.0 Mustang posted 3620 lbs curb weight and 412 HP. That figures out to be 8.78 lbs per flywheel HP.
To get the same Weight to HP ratio on a 3200 lbs, 92 Mustang Hatch, you need 364 flywheel HP. For a N/A 302 based block engine, that looks like a very healthy 331 or 347 stroker. Add NO2 or pressurized induction to a stock bore and stroke 5.0 with a good H/C/I setup and you are there with less $$$ spent on the engine.
Some sticky street drag radials could lower the HP requirement to achieve the same or better ET as the 2011 5.0 Mustang.
For a peek at the 2011 5.0's performance numbers, see 2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 Full Test and Video
I have a 91 gt with H/C/I and strim blower with good suspension under it. It looks a little ruff right now as it has a dent in rear quarterpanel and faded paint. I had a 2011 gt mess with me the other day and I pulled him very badly. I think he was a little shocked when my beater took him and it left a big smile on my face. I built my car myself and everything is paid for, I cant see paying the asking price of the 2011 gt. I have alot invested in my gt but no payment.
foxforce33
New Member
Just wanted to point out I was at a local Ford dealer today and saw two 5.0s with 6 spds, cloth interior, and spoiler deletes with stickers of $30,595. Of course, these are the "base" GTs with no Brembo package, the base wheel/tire package and no frills interior (no alum trim, lighting, etc). Exactly what I'd get if I was getting a 2011.
(I do wonder which rear-end gear these have.)There was even one there in the same color scheme as my '87 LX: white with tan interior.
I'd love to have one of these in my garage.
25thmustang
Mustang Master
My car fits your general criteria. Stock type driveability, high 12s on street tires (sometimes, sometimes low 13s) and very little in the performance dollars.
I probably wouldn't do much but hang with a stock 11, and as soon as he mods it's all over.
I probably wouldn't do much but hang with a stock 11, and as soon as he mods it's all over.
Shaolin Crane
Banned
I think you're insane if you think hci will keep up with an 2011 GT. It's going to take more than that to keep from embarrasing yourself at stoplights with a 2011 GT. Hell, it'll take more than that to keep up with a 2011 SS Camaro.
I believe you. It will take h/c/i and a power adder to beat these 11 GT's. Go ahead if you want and try one h/c/i foxbody. 9 times out of 10 you'll get your sorry arses handed to you.
Have you read any of this thread? There are guys out there running high 12s without even pulling a valve cover on their pushrod 5.0s. Other guys running low 12s and even 11s with "junk" iron GT40 head Foxes. If you know what you're doing, you could definitely walk an '11 with a good H/C/I.
millhouse
Founding Member
+1
I've seen healthy HCI fox's with a decent suspension and the proper gears trapping 110+mph in the 1/4 mile...which in all reality is all you will need to "keep up" with a stock 2011+ GT. At that point, you it should be a drivers race. You guys have to keep in mind, not everyone that is buying these new 5.0's are able to handle the power they are putting down…nor are they used to it. Likewise, not everyone is going to throw a filter and a tune on them…as I'd venture to say a vast majority are going to be perfectly complacent with the stock power levels.
to the OP, since you do not race much, and you mentioned you dont want to get embarrassed on the street IF you pull up to a new 5.0, I'd do gears, full exhaust, a few suspension components, and a 150 shot of giggle gas and call it a day. WHEN a new 5.0 pulls up next to you....you should be ready to save face. A solid H/C/I package wouldn't hurt either
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