How to troubleshoot AC clutch & CCRM
Let's start first by confirming ALL of the fuses. Check fuse F1.24, F2.2, F2.23, and F2.24. F1=Battery Junction box (BJB). F2=Central Junction box (CJB).
Note, it can sometimes be hard to tell from above if a fuse is actually blown. Recommend pulling the fuses one at a time and checking with an Ohm meter (or visually).
Power to AC clutch can be interrupted at the fuse, the Mode control switch in the passenger compartment, the AC high pressure switch, the AC low pressure switch, and the CCRM. The PCM will also disable the AC clutch during WOT.
Note, on the GT models, the AC clutch is grounded via the CCRM at G101. So if trying to jump the AC clutch for a functional test, it will be necessary to supply both +/- 12 volts directly to the clutch. It may be difficult to get to the connector. Once done, it will be easy to hear/see the clutch engage. The engine does not have to be running. In fact, best that the engine is not running as the area by the AC compressor is difficult to access.
IMO, it is possible to burn up the CCRM if +12 volts is forced backwards via the grounding path through the CCRM. The polarity does matter. So be mindful of this if probing leads with everything still connected.
If the AC clutch is good, recommend testing the CCRM next. The CCRM can be difficult to access. Usually requires removal of the Right hand front wheel fender liner. It will be easier to access the different test points once you have easy access to the CCRM.
Please review diagram 54-2 and 54-4 in post #2. The diagram will give the terminal numbers and wire colors to aid in trouble shooting.
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