Shop says I might have a spun bearing

[ACSPONY]

I took the car in for what I thought was top-end noise. Using a stethoscope I thought I isolated the ticking/chatter noise I had to the passenger side valve cover so I had the shop re-adjust all the valves and they said they still got the noise. They pulled the belt to eliminate the accessories and still had the noise, they are saying it's bottom end.

I thought a spun bearing would be more of a knocking sound than chatter though the noise in this video is like what I hear on my car although the noise in the video is louder and occurs right from startup.

YouTube - RIP My stock engine

I hear the noise on my car only intermittently between 1500-2000rpm. Are there symptoms besides the noise to suggest a spun bearing? The car drives fine minus the noise. I have the factory oil gauge so I don't think that's much help in checking the oil pressure.

 

[347HO]

There will be tell-tale crap in your oil. I'd check that right away.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Cut the oil filter open and inspect the contents, you cant miss bearing material....

 

[BlackGT89]

I think I remember your other posts and the original video. Has it gotten louder ?

 

[ACSPONY]

It hasn't gotten louder and I still only hear it intermittently. I changed the oil when I replaced the valve cover gaskets and a few days before that was when I had first heard the noise. I changed it later to Pennzoil 10W40 conventional to see if that would quiet things down since I thought it was valvetrain noise. I never saw any metal in the oil, but I didn't put a magnet to it either since I thought it was noise from the top end. Since the last oil change (Pennzoil) the car has maybe 20 miles on it from driving it to the shop. Would that still show metal in the oil or filter?

 

[347HO]

Not necessarily.
The bearing is more than likely a "babbit" bearing, consisting of a bronze/copper base laminated with tin and lead or lead alloy which is actually the bearing surface.
If it were spinning, you'd see light gray to silver flakes shaped like lighting bolts or slivers.
You can cut your filter open, but you'll see it suspended in the oil just the same.

btw, it's unlikely a magnet will show you anything unless you have other issues with your block.

 

[BlackGT89]

The video in your original post didn't seem as "heavy metal" as the last the link you provided. I can't remember how loud the original noise was but I remember thinking it could just be normal wear. It's possible you could raise the engine up enough to take the oil pan off and have a look at the rod bearings, I installed new rod bearings in an old Dodge I used to have like that once when money was tight and I was much younger. But with these cars you might as well pull the engine and freshen it up even if you don't want to rebuild the whole thing. If it hasn't been abused the cylinder walls should be fine. Of course if you have actually spun a bearing the crank is probably scored then it's a whole new ball game. First be sure where the noise is coming from, maybe get a second opinion. You might try removing the spark plug wires one at a time to see if the noise goes away (either cut the engine off when handling the wires or use some gloves that can insolate the spark).

 

[1990MustangLX50]

Not necessarily.
The bearing is more than likely a "babbit" bearing, consisting of a bronze/copper base laminated with tin and lead or lead alloy which is actually the bearing surface.
If it were spinning, you'd see light gray to silver flakes shaped like lighting bolts or slivers.
You can cut your filter open, but you'll see it suspended in the oil just the same.

btw, it's unlikely a magnet will show you anything unless you have other issues with your block.

Like said above, you really should take your oil filter and cut it open and look for bronze colored material. I actually am in the process of putting a short block in a 07 accord V6 due to a spun bearing - it had low oil pressure and was knocking in the bottom end - what is your oil pressure showing on your factory gauge

 

[ACSPONY]

Oil pressure is normal on the gauge - around the A at idle but then right at M when I'm driving. My inclination is just to drive it until something breaks instead of paying the shop outright to tear it down and look around. That way I'll know what was going on for sure and I can rebuild it/bore it over and clean things up.

 

[347HO]

Check your damper and pulleys.
Ya never know...

 

[ACSPONY]

The shop said they pulled the belt and it still made noise so I think the pulleys are okay. I'm going to drive it home and open up the oil filter.

 

[2000xp8]

Get an autometer full sweep mechanical oil pressure gauge.
As soon as your car heats up, you will know if your bottom end is gone.

 

[HotFox]

The frequency of the knock sounds more like a valve train knock. Usually a rod is a more distinguished: knock----knock----knock.

Just a thought?

Scott

 

[ACSPONY]

That's what I was thinking Scott, and I swear I tracked it down to the pass. valve cover with the stethoscope. I'm going to listen to the oil pan to make sure it's not traveling from the bottom end. If it's still up top, maybe a bad lifter? Pushrod? What else could be making noise up there?

 

[ACSPONY]

I brought the car back from the shop and I'm going to get the oil pressure gauge hooked up.

In the meantime, a guy at the shop is selling his shortblock for $600. Now I don't have the details, but I'd like to know if getting a new shortblock is necessary after you spin a bearing, or if it's just the easy way to go.

If it's a main bearing that's bad, you can just use oversized ones and grind the crank, reusing your pistions and connecting rods? And if it's a bad rod bearing, you need to replace those, as well as the crank? $600 seemed high for a (possibly) stock shortblock but I know that replacing internals can add up quickly too.

 

[2000xp8]

If it's a bearing, pretty much your engine is shot.
Ya you could fix just that bearing, but it's not worth the trouble.
If you are on a budget, buy a good condition explorer engine. Stuff a cam in it, add your intake, sell the gt40 explorer intake and you got 250rwhp.

 

[twistedwankel]

In the meantime, a guy at the shop is selling his shortblock for $600.

Now there is a big red flag!!! Definately get another professional opinion now!! From someone not looking to sell a motor.

It is amazing how long an engine can continue running well with a "loud knocking rod". Your's isn't hardly audible yet. For the time being you should just consider AAAplus with a 100mi towing range to the place of your choice.

You can run 20-50 racing oil too if desired. It's not the cost of the engine that bites it's the (professional) cost to remove/install that gets out of hand!!

 

[ACSPONY]

Well, the guy selling the shortblock isn't the one that went over my car, but yeah, I thought the same thing. I do have AAA, but I'll have to look into how far they'll tow with our plan. I have 10W40 in it right now, what brand of 20-50 would you recommend if I decide to run that?

 

[twistedwankel]

I used to use Valvoline Racing Oil but any name brand will do.

 

[wv109323]

Spun Bearing

Instead of tearing into the oil filter I would drain the oil from the pan. I would catch the old oil into a clean container. I would inspect the oil for metal flakes. Metal in the oil filter would need to be small enough to be pulled through the screen on the intake and then could be chewed up again by the oil pump before entering the filter. Your big metal particles are going to be left in the oil pan.
I may even drain the oil as stated then pour a gallon of Kerosene/Diesel fuel thru the motor,catch it in a cantainer and inspect it for metal particles .
If you have a spun bearing it will reveal itself.