I've got a 96 mustang gt npi motor. Im doing a pi head swap. just dont know what cams to use. Im also puting a 3500 stall and having the trans built. Im puting a tuner and a new throttle body and bigger injectors and an adjustable fuel pressure reg. also changing it to 4.10's. ne thing els i need or need to know this is my first ford mod motor.
1996 stang build help
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trinity_gt
10 Year Member
a) 3500 stall? That's pretty high. Is this a daily driver? Make sure you invest in a good trans fluid cooler...
b) Why are you changing the injectors and why go to an adjustable FPR? The 19# injectors will easily serve to over 300rwHP and the fuel injectors are designed to operate with a 40-psi pressure drop across them. An adjustable FPR just adds needless complication.
c) Cams: What do you want out of the car? If you're seeking high-RPM performance (3500 stall? 4.10s?) you're going to want a "stage 2" grind I'd think. But you're also going to want to upgrade the valve springs and retainers.
You'll also want to think about oil-drainback enhancement to ensure the sump doesn't empty during extended high-RPM operation.
b) Why are you changing the injectors and why go to an adjustable FPR? The 19# injectors will easily serve to over 300rwHP and the fuel injectors are designed to operate with a 40-psi pressure drop across them. An adjustable FPR just adds needless complication.
c) Cams: What do you want out of the car? If you're seeking high-RPM performance (3500 stall? 4.10s?) you're going to want a "stage 2" grind I'd think. But you're also going to want to upgrade the valve springs and retainers.
You'll also want to think about oil-drainback enhancement to ensure the sump doesn't empty during extended high-RPM operation.
stangman98
Founding Member
Do 24lb injectors so that you can expand down the road. Don't worry about the adjustable FPR. Waste of money. For cams go to CUSHMAN MOTORSPORTS
A 3500 stall is a tad steep, but can be done. Never forget that Modular's like RPM. Don't fear the gear. In my 5 spd I wish I would have done 4.30 instead of 4.10's. A PI swap on a '96 shortblock will increase compression also.
I would reccomend getting it tuned. When you do cams, I would suggest Manley Nextex valve springs also. If you are going to do it don't half ass it.
As far as the suggestion for oil drain back (who the hell comes up with this stuff) I ran the '98 for years with a '98 short block and PI heads up to 6800 RPMS and never had one single issue. Thing ran 12.6 at 106 at 3350 lbs with my fat ass. So don't worry about the RPM thing.
A 3500 stall is a tad steep, but can be done. Never forget that Modular's like RPM. Don't fear the gear. In my 5 spd I wish I would have done 4.30 instead of 4.10's. A PI swap on a '96 shortblock will increase compression also.
I would reccomend getting it tuned. When you do cams, I would suggest Manley Nextex valve springs also. If you are going to do it don't half ass it.
As far as the suggestion for oil drain back (who the hell comes up with this stuff) I ran the '98 for years with a '98 short block and PI heads up to 6800 RPMS and never had one single issue. Thing ran 12.6 at 106 at 3350 lbs with my fat ass. So don't worry about the RPM thing.
trinity_gt
10 Year Member
Your one anecdotal story of going to 6800 "RPMS" and never having a problem is offset by (a) at least as many stories of people spinning their engines to numbers like that and when the thing returns to idle hearing a nasty tap that is clearly a spun rod bearing and (b) by engine builder Sean Hyland providing empirical proof of the problem of the cylinder heads filling with oil faster than it drains back during extended high-RPM operation and warning of rod and main bearing oil starvation as a result.
Trinity is 100% correct on thisw situaton. I wouldn't tell anyone to shift a stock bottom end over 6300rpms. I was brave and shifted 6600rpms and spun a rod bearing, due to lack of oil in the upper rpms.
To the OP, I would atleast do gears, and for cams look into either Cushman motorsports or Modularheadshop.com. If you do cams you should almost always upgrade valve springs as trinity stated earlier. I can't help when it comes to the stall because I'm a 5speed guy.
To the OP, I would atleast do gears, and for cams look into either Cushman motorsports or Modularheadshop.com. If you do cams you should almost always upgrade valve springs as trinity stated earlier. I can't help when it comes to the stall because I'm a 5speed guy.
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