I have a friend who has a almost brand new 3 row radiator thats for a 96 mustang gt and can sell it to me cheap. I want to put it in my 95 gt that I'm swapping a 351w into. I figure I'll need extra cooling capacity since the 351w was just bored over .060. The dimensions are the same and the only difference appears to be that the 96's hose inlet diameter is 1-1/2" in diameter and the 95's is 1-3/8". I can mange that easily the hose oughta stretch easily to slip over the extra 1/8' diameter. Could I not use the 96's radiator? Thanks for any help on this
Radiator from a 96 gt in a 95?
- Thread starter ryan7662
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My best friend has said that they're a PITA because the radiator for them is specific to the 94-95 model years. I don't think it will work without fabrication.
Chris
Chris
Consider using a new stock version.
I now run a stock radiator in my 95 351w. It not only cools better than the high flow aluminum unit, but is lighter and gives more room for the fan.
I did have a high flow water pump, which was used with both radiators.
I have a (warranty replacment) high flow aluminum raditor, but have no plans to even bother installing it.
The stock radiator cooled fine after 30 laps plus idle time (2 hours) after auto-x open practice. I don't have any cooling issues, even in the high 90's.
I definetly don't want to have to be hacking away at the frame up front to fit it in there. I'll just pay a little more and get a 3 row radiator ment for the 94-95. Thanks for the help Chris.
It would be great if I can use a stock radiator considering the one in my 95 right now is almost new. It's gonna be a mild setup for right now and can change it later on down the road when I throw on a turbocharger. I'm just south of Houston and I'm no stranger to the high 90's low 100's so I'll be dealing with same. David you don't think that the fact that the block was bored over .060" will cause it to need more cooling capacity than the stock radiator provides? If not than that take a 500 pound gorilla off my back and let me get my car back on the road a month sooner.
It's just that people have been telling me that my engine's gonna be running a lot hotter after being bored over .060" but if you don't think so I'll take your word you sound like you have a lot more expirence than me. Only mods right now will be custom side exhaust, comp cams xtreme energy cam, and cold air intake. I bought a intake mainfold adaptor from bcbroncos.com that let me adapt the sn95's plenum to a 351w lower(to hopefully fool the emissions inspector
). Thanks for the input guysIt would be great if I can use a stock radiator considering the one in my 95 right now is almost new. It's gonna be a mild setup for right now and can change it later on down the road when I throw on a turbocharger. I'm just south of Houston and I'm no stranger to the high 90's low 100's so I'll be dealing with same. David you don't think that the fact that the block was bored over .060" will cause it to need more cooling capacity than the stock radiator provides? If not than that take a 500 pound gorilla off my back and let me get my car back on the road a month sooner.
It's just that people have been telling me that my engine's gonna be running a lot hotter after being bored over .060" but if you don't think so I'll take your word you sound like you have a lot more expirence than me. Only mods right now will be custom side exhaust, comp cams xtreme energy cam, and cold air intake. I bought a intake mainfold adaptor from bcbroncos.com that let me adapt the sn95's plenum to a 351w lower(to hopefully fool the emissions inspector
I'm .030" over and at about 400hp and will just keep the stock radiator. If it was me, I'd put the nearly new stock radiator in and see how it works. I don't see how .060" over is going to make any significant cooling issue.
I also have a manual, AFR 185 heads, LT headers and tubular GT intake. These may affect cooling in a different way than your setup. But, since you already have a good radiator, it will simplify your build to go with it.
Adam95GT
New Member
I've heard so many people say that .060" is too much, or the ragged edge, etc... but then, I can't remember anyone who ever said that the reason they had issues with anything was because they overbored the motor. It doesn't necessarily mean anything other than I've never heard about it, but I'll bet you'll be alright. And anyway, don't lose sleep or funds over the decision. Run it, and if it's a problem, then upgrade.
Chris
Chris
Yeah I'll take your guys word and stick with the stock for now and get a 2 row or 3 row if I need to in the future. It'll be another couple months before I get it on the road and it should be getting cold by then so I don't need to worry about it in the short run. I know I'll have to sleeve the block next time I have to do a rebuild but I'm building this car to be a mild daily driver. The reason I had to have it bored to .060 is because the first machine shop did such a crappy job they had to take it out to .060 to clean up their screw up. I had the rotating assembly balanced( 200+$ they had to add metal to the crank) and am using speed pro hyp. coated pistons so hopefully the motor will last awhile(knock on wood). I might not even turbo this car and save the money fixing up my 84lx hatchback since she dosen't have to pass emissions Thanks for the help everybody I'm glad I asked before buying.
Thanks for the help everybody I'm glad I asked before buying.
The 96' radiator just doesn't fit. I've tried, and it's not worth the hassle. I don't see how anyone is keeping a Mustang cool with a stock radiator. Mine ran hot with the stock radiator when it was stock. As soon as I put the 2" aluminum radiator in, the problem was solved. I can't think of anyone with a serious engine and a stock radiator. That's usually the first thing to become overloaded. Not to mention, it's all made of plastic, and it cracks.
Kurt
Kurt
My original ten year old stock radiator didn't keep it cool either, but the new stock radiator has worked great for four years now. Much better than the high flow, all aluminum radiator I used for a year.
I noticed that many people compare cooling of the old stck radiator to a new high flow unit. This is an apples to oranges comparison, since readiators do wear out and decrease in cooling capaicity with age.
How old was the stock radiator you used?
Also, how do you define a "serious engine?" No doubt, there is a level when the stcock will not cool enough, but I would say that it's beyond the 400 hp level of a NA engine build using street grade gas.
My radiator was 4 years old when I swapped. You have a very valid point there. I just don't see how that little waffle can be any good for cooling.
Kurt
Kurt
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