2v nitrous build suggestions

[purplestang47]

hey guys i havent posted on here in quite a while as i have been with out a job and in college so no money equals no mods but im starting my new job next week and will finally be able to get started on a real build. so i have a few questions. i am pulling the motor this winter as its burning oil and i think its time for new piston rings so while im at it i want to do pi heads and comp nitrous cams. i plan to run the zex 120 shot wet kit and am trying to decide what intake and plenium to go with. there are lots of other things i plan to change at the same time like new fuel rails, injectors and more but cant decide on an intake. also thinking about boring the cylinders .020 over while im at it. this is not an everyday driver so thats not a concern so what would you guys suggest? thanks

 

[Stumbaugh]

Go with the CMS stage 2 cams. They favor the exhaust side, so they would be great for nitrous. If you bore it, u have to buy new pistons, so get a good forged piston. Have the heads ported. If you are going to for sure stay with nitrous, up the compression.

 

[BurningRubber]

Not to be a killjoy, but you may want to re-think your plan.

If you're going to pull the motor, do it right. Clean the crank up, get some forged rods, and forged pistons. You're right about probably having to go .020 over, but doubtful you'll need more than that unless your cylinders are really worn. If you just do pistons, the rods are still your weak point and you're also still going on the same rod bearings that have been in there the life of the engine.

As far as intake and plenum, stock for both will work just fine. But there are a lot of aftermarket plenums, just pick on that fits your budget, they all perform very closely. As far as the intake, you will probably get by with it for a while. One bad nitrous backfire and you can kiss it goodbye, as it'll shatter like glass. Edelbrock's new intake is a very good nitrous setup and would work well with a mild set of cams. You can also get their fuel rails and a plenum adapter, or whole new plenum setup to make it work. May not fit under the stock hood though.

As far as fuel injectors, you can run stock injectors on a wet kit, but it's not a bad idea to upgrade. You'll need to switch out your stock MAF for a matching unit if you do the injectors though.

Fuel pump should be addressed. A SVT Focus pump will do fine with the 125 shot.

I'd personally go for a plate kit (Harris Speed Works or Nitrous Express). Much cleaner install, better atomization of the nitrous and fuel. Both kits are rated at the rear wheels, whereas I've been told numerous times ZEX is rated at the crank.

 

[purplestang47]

thanks guys and sorry i didnt mention before but i was already planning on doing the clean up on the crank. and the pistons. not quite sure what dish size i want yet. also i will get the heads ported and polished. but yeah i was leaning toward the edlebrock intake but the performance products looked interesting too. also for a plenium i heard about the mhs one but dont know much about it. anyone have any info on it? and thanks for the other suggestions for nitrous kits ill look into those. and clearing stock hood wont be a problem. this sping my cars getting re painted so while im at it im doing hood and spoiler. i think im going to run the stalker 2 so i should have a little more room to work with

 

[nickmckinney]

First real question should be "whats your total budget"

I have had people spend $1K on a juice motor and $10K on a juice motor.....................

 

[Stumbaugh]

stay away from the professional products intake....

 

[BurningRubber]

The stock bottom end will only take so much.

Instead of paying to have the heads ported, I'd invest in some forged rods also. You will be able to dial in what power you want with the jets, so you don't "need" to port the heads for the extra power when you'll be pushing the limits of the stock bottom end.

If money isn't an issue, by all means go for both. But I would not at all consider taking the shortblock apart and not stuffing it with forged rods and pistons knowing I'm planning on running a mild shot of nitrous.

Stalker 2 hood probably offers a little room over stock, but if you want some definite room I'd look at a 2.5-4" cowl depending on what you're going to be doing as far as the intake setup, plenum setup, nitrous setup (nozzle or plate). Lots of factors, but it should be a pretty rewarding build.

 

[purplestang47]

well i will probably have about 4 to 5 thousand to use for the build so i am planning on taking your advice and going forged bottom end and also porting. and stumbaugh why do you say that? i hadnt heard anything bad about it.

 

[purplestang47]

also burningrubber i was looking into harris speed works but i didnt see a plate kit offered on theres i wasnt sure if they had one or not. however they're pricing is unbelieable if i do run they're kit i might some money leftover for a few other mods

 

[Stumbaugh]

Ive never heard anything good about those intakes. A friend of mine bought one and the castings looked like ****. We had to grind on the intake to make it seal properly.

 

[nickmckinney]

well i will probably have about 4 to 5 thousand to use for the build so i am planning on taking your advice and going forged bottom end and also porting. and stumbaugh why do you say that? i hadnt heard anything bad about it.

Assuming you do all the labor yourself I would do a set of ported heads, real nitrous cams, forged rods and flattop pistons, and run a 150 shot kit for the PI intake. Later on if you want more then get the Eddy intake with a massive plate kit, the rest is already there and waiting.

JE SRP has a 20 over flattop piston kit with rings and 2V notches for $600 that would be ideal. Combine those with a lightweight RPM rod and the crank can be run as is if desired, the bobweight is that close to stock.

 

[BurningRubber]

also burningrubber i was looking into harris speed works but i didnt see a plate kit offered on theres i wasnt sure if they had one or not. however they're pricing is unbelieable if i do run they're kit i might some money leftover for a few other mods

Seeing as I have a Harris plate kit on my car, they do exist...

Here's a link. I have ZERO complaints, it's a great kit. However, I am not sure if the solenoids will support a 200 shot. Definitely check with the company on that, but you could upgrade if you went this route. NX and Nitrous Outlet also make great 2v plate kits.

Harris Speed Works :: EFI Nitrous Kits :: Ford Vehicles :: Mustang :: Mustang '99 - '04 :: HSW Wet Nitrous Kits :: Sudden Impact Wet Plate Nitrous Kit

Assuming you do all the labor yourself I would do a set of ported heads, real nitrous cams, forged rods and flattop pistons, and run a 150 shot kit for the PI intake. Later on if you want more then get the Eddy intake with a massive plate kit, the rest is already there and waiting.

JE SRP has a 20 over flattop piston kit with rings and 2V notches for $600 that would be ideal. Combine those with a lightweight RPM rod and the crank can be run as is if desired, the bobweight is that close to stock.

Listen to this man, he is beyond in tune with what's good with modular performance.

 

[purplestang47]

thanks nickmckinney that does look like the way to go and the price seems right too. i think i may just do the eddy intake to begin with though and i will be doing the work myself. first time working on a modular motor but a friend has expierence and will be helping. and also thanks burning rubber lol i was being a little slower than normal last night and decided to only look at 96-98. lol no more beer before looking up important things for me i believe the kit you posted is the one i will be getting and with the money i will be saving i also think i will get they're complete nitrous accessory kit. also i dont plan on going over a 150 shot anytime soon so im not too worried about the solenoids although it would be nice to know just in case i do decide to

 

[purplestang47]

also what would you guys recomend for forged rods? i was looking at some from modmax performance but id like to hear your suggestions since they've been great so far

 

[nickmckinney]

There are 4 levels of rods:

unknown Ebay junk - these are usually the rejects for being slightly out of spec (yes thats true) and typically take a resizing to bring all to the specs I like to see

RPM brand - these are the asian ones that everybody sells and are usually good. They have a few different options. I am installing a set for a cheap motor of mine.

Manley - next step better, about double the price. If you plan to do bigger than a 150 shot *and* also spin it to 7000 this is what I would want to see used myself.

Oliver - plan to spend $1K plus for a set, but you get what you pay for.

 

[purplestang47]

There are 4 levels of rods:

unknown Ebay junk - these are usually the rejects for being slightly out of spec (yes thats true) and typically take a resizing to bring all to the specs I like to see

RPM brand - these are the asian ones that everybody sells and are usually good. They have a few different options. I am installing a set for a cheap motor of mine.

Manley - next step better, about double the price. If you plan to do bigger than a 150 shot *and* also spin it to 7000 this is what I would want to see used myself.

Oliver - plan to spend $1K plus for a set, but you get what you pay for.

wow thanks i never knew all that about the rod types. yeah manely is what id like to go with, with that being the case.

 

[purplestang47]

so i was looking at the different manley rods for my car and after doing a bunch of searching im still confused. which is the best an i or h beam style? ive been getting a bunch of mixed information. i always thought h beam were supposed to be overall tougher but after reading some were saying that may not be the case?

 

[nickmckinney]

You can ask a dozen people and get a dozen different answers.

For your combo look at the lighter weight rods for the main factor unless you plan to do higher than a 200 shot IMHO. Heavier rods will need a heavier crank, and that takes more power to turn the higher the RPM you go.

 

[purplestang47]

You can ask a dozen people and get a dozen different answers.

For your combo look at the lighter weight rods for the main factor unless you plan to do higher than a 200 shot IMHO. Heavier rods will need a heavier crank, and that takes more power to turn the higher the RPM you go.

yeah you hit that nail on the head on that one lol. and thanks thats what i will look into getting i appreciate all the help

 

[mudrun1]

I will add a + for the victor jr intake. You can run it for cheap. your fuel rails will work if you fab a bracket and tap the intake, the spots are already there they just need holes. If you are running a huge amount of power then get the new rails, but a forged motor with a 150 wet shot will not require them. Buy a new plenum designed to mate to the victors carb body. I just adapted my curent t/b to fit the intake,, cheap, but it cost me 5-10hp. I know it is holding me back. Don't change the pump, run the k/b boost a pump. it is easy and it will support all that you need. After that buy a progressive window switch, i bought the nitrous daves one and like it, it was also pretty cheap, the WOT box has a window switch in it, but not progressive FYI. I also went with the nozzle style fogger and it is ok, alot cheaper then a good plate, depending on the kit. I bought a nitrous daves kit with the upgraded 250hp solenoids. The regular solenoids will not spray very well at or near their max. If you are going forged with je flat tops why stop at 150. you can spray those pistons on a good set of rods into the 250 range. if you go above 250 you need to start looking into direct port and above 200 takes at least a plate for best results, in my opinion. You will love this motor on a 200 shot, but you will end up wanting a turbo, just my 2cents. You also might not maker the power you expected, the torque will be cool but horse power wil top out at about 400-450 or so rear wheel with a 175 shot depending on your setup.