Global West Suspension Rocker Rail Supports?

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I installed these on my 67 coupe while I was doing a torsional rigidity test. I didn't see any measurable improvement. My car had many other modifications that may have affected their efficacy. I probably wouldn't install them again since they added weight but no sustantial benefit.

This is the full assembly before welding it into the car:

sfcwjackingrail.jpg


I didn't end up using the center brace as it also added no measurable benefit.

Prbably a better approach is to install the stock convertible bracing.
 
I installed these on my 67 coupe while I was doing a torsional rigidity test. I didn't see any measurable improvement. My car had many other modifications that may have affected their efficacy. I probably wouldn't install them again since they added weight but no sustantial benefit.

This is the full assembly before welding it into the car:

sfcwjackingrail.jpg


I didn't end up using the center brace as it also added no measurable benefit.

Prbably a better approach is to install the stock convertible bracing.


Thanks mustbereel. If you don't mind me asking.. what other modifications did you do to your 67? I am trying to get my chassis strong enough for the engine I will be putting in it.
 
I used the maeir racing subframe connectors and they made a noticeable difference.

Without the connectors, If I place a jack under one of the front wheels and jack it up all the way, that sides rear tire would be left on the ground.

After the subframes were installed, if I jacked it up the same way, the rear tire would come off the ground. I could lift a whole side up by just lifting on front wheel.
 
I installed Global West SFC, but the car is not on the ground yet. I was planning to install the rocker rail support, but after reading Mustbereel's thread, I am no longer going to install it.
 
Mustbereel - I know you used 16 gauge sheetmetal for the seat divider and was wondering if you or someone would recommend using a thicker gauge for better strength or it really doesn't have any advantage?
 
I think you get to a point of diminishing returns with thicker metal. You'll add weight without significantly adding strength. I've seen kits sold with 18ga, although these are sold primarily to prevent fuel from entering the passenger compartment during a collision.

Someone suggested running beads in the panel to increase its rigidity which would probably add more strength than just increasing the metal's thickness.
 
Thanks Mustbereel. I also noticed that you covered your whole rear. Would you recommend just making the seat divider accordingly to the grooves? I don't have a pic currently to show what I am referring at the moment.
 
Thanks Mustbereel. I also noticed that you covered your whole rear. Would you recommend just making the seat divider accordingly to the grooves? I don't have a pic currently to show what I am referring at the moment.


While I usually make it a point to cover my rear, I'm not sure to what grooves you are referring. I wanted to not only strengthen the chassis but also block openings in case of fuel tank rupture.
 
While I usually make it a point to cover my rear, I'm not sure to what grooves you are referring. I wanted to not only strengthen the chassis but also block openings in case of fuel tank rupture.

Yea, I just noticed how first sentence looked/sounded. :lol:. Sorry... I'll take a pic tonight and post it, but I completely understand what you are saying about blocking the openings.
 
I see what you are saying. The panel could be cut to fit inside the recessed area. That would probably have similar results as far a strengthening the chassis. However, I think covering everything allows more mounting points to get every last bit of benefit.