New guy here.

Coolblue... Your running 10.8 for compression, you ok on 93 octane pump gas? I was thinking 10.5 would be the limit?

Yo Tony,

It's quite possible to run, what might appear to be a high CR, however, it's not so much the static CR, as it is the dynamic CR that occurs during operation and is determined, in part, by the overlap event. The result, of which, is a lower CR.
As an example, I built a static CR of 10.6, however in fact, it is 9.8 in operation. Which was a planned event.
 
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yeah, I usually run Premium gas, but I have even run it on regular (not at the track though) without any issue.

My idle is pretty lumpy, although not as much as it was when I had flowmasters, the magnaflows smoothed it about it.
 
Regarding the rear...
Yes, you can buy a complete drop-in "jack-pot", then, you jack up the rear axle assembly, pull the rear wheels, drums, remove the axle retainer plate, pull the axles. from under the car, disconnect the rear u-joint nuts , pull away from the pinion yoke. Place a pan beneath the rear housing remove the 12(?) nuts holding the carrier assy. Don't worry dude, it won't fall off, for sure! Next go find the "BFH" and start tapping the perimeter of the carrier forward of the parting line. If you're lucky, it'll break loose. If not place a wooden wedge in the parting line at several points around the perimeter of the housing to break it loose. Once successful, the lube will start to spill, catch as a possible, then, pry it off the studs. Now dude, be ready for one "friggin" heavy lump of iron.
So, you only have to choose an appropriate form of locking rear. You can choose , TSD, Equa-Lok, Trac- Lok, Detroit Locker, PowerTrax, Auburn, etc. Most reputable companies can supply a drop-in unit and can be installed in the reverse of removal. You only half to add a high quality gear lube and an traction additive, if required.

Doesnt sound too bad. Makes more sense now, thinks for the descriptive post mang!

Yo Tony,

It's quite possible to run, what might appear to be a high CR, however, it's not so much the static CR, as it is the dynamic CR that occurs during operation and is determined, in part, by the overlap event. The result, of which, is a lower CR.
As an example, I built a static CR of 10.6, however in fact, it is 9.8 in operation. Which was a planned event.

Are you speaking to cam duration? I remeber this issue from building my last harley motor. they have starting issues with high compression and not enough duration.

yeah, I usually run Premium gas, but I have even run it on regular (not at the track though) without any issue.

My idle is pretty lumpy, although not as much as it was when I had flowmasters, the magnaflows smoothed it about it.

Sounds less lumpy or it actually changed your idle? from Backpressure?
 
Nice videos, thanks for that, the car looks great! Why did you switch to the magna flows? I love the way it sounded with the flow masters.

The flowmasters were on the car for years, welded to a rusty 2.25" exhaust with no h or x-pipe. I upgraded to the Magnaflow stainless 2.5" system w/ X-pipe after I put the 347 in. The goal was to get as much power out of the motor as I could with the better system and freer (sp?) flowing mufflers, and to have a long lasting exhaust.

Sound-wise I absolutely preferred the flowmasters, although I probably wouldn't go back to them only because they are so common and when you hear a car with flowmasters they all pretty much sound the same no matter what motor. The magnaflows definitely quieted my car down at idle and regular driving, to put the point that most people underestimate what my car can do.

If I was to buy new mufflers I would probably buy the Corsa Black series. My father has a set of Corsa's on his car and they plain sound mean.
 
The flowmasters were on the car for years, welded to a rusty 2.25" exhaust with no h or x-pipe. I upgraded to the Magnaflow stainless 2.5" system w/ X-pipe after I put the 347 in. The goal was to get as much power out of the motor as I could with the better system and freer (sp?) flowing mufflers, and to have a long lasting exhaust.

Sound-wise I absolutely preferred the flowmasters, although I probably wouldn't go back to them only because they are so common and when you hear a car with flowmasters they all pretty much sound the same no matter what motor. The magnaflows definitely quieted my car down at idle and regular driving, to put the point that most people underestimate what my car can do.

If I was to buy new mufflers I would probably buy the Corsa Black series. My father has a set of Corsa's on his car and they plain sound mean.


Makes sense. I've been watching your videos a few times. That thing sounds and runs awesome. Any tips on what you would do different with your 347 knowing what you know now?
 
I swear I'm gonna do a cut-and-paste link on this someday. To convert a 64-66 cylinder Mustang to V8, you need to replace:


Rear axle assembly complete
Rear brakes
Rear springs

Front-to-rear fuel line
Front spindles
Front springs
Sway bar
Front brakes
Inner & outer tie rod ends & adjusters
Center link
Idler Arm
Pitman arm

Engine wiring harness
Throttle pedal

Some other stuff I forgot.

If you're planning on changing the trans, how about a nice 5-speed on the engine you have? Then you don't have to replace all that other stuff.

my car was converted +15 years ago and i bought more or less a running car. less because it had the wrong flywheel, bald tires, and a siezed caliper, but the price was right. it came with front power disks and is 5 lug on all corners and i have since installed shelby type springs up front. any specific info on why i would need the high-lighted stuff?
 
Tore down the 289 this week and dropped the block off at the machine shop yesterday, picked up a T5 and am ordering afr 185's this week, project is moving along.

I'll add, when you get the block back, you might consider chamfering all of valey oil return holes, that is, radius for better oil return.
There are two in the back and in the center. Also, check around the dizzy shaft area too.
A little glytal added to the avlley and crankcase areas help, as well.
Happy Motoring!
 
I'll add, when you get the block back, you might consider chamfering all of valey oil return holes, that is, radius for better oil return.
There are two in the back and in the center. Also, check around the dizzy shaft area too.
A little glytal added to the avlley and crankcase areas help, as well.
Happy Motoring!

Now this is the kind fo stuff I like hearing. these little tips are golden. Thanks Poppy, anyone got an tips?
 
Tony,
Do you know what rear end you actually have? I could be mistaken, but I think in 65, most 6 cylinder cars came with the light duty 7.5" or maybe it was 7.75". This rear would have a rear cover bolted on. If you are lucky enough to actually have an 8" with 4 lugs, then all you will need to do is put in a new center chunk and swap to 5 lug axle shafts. If not, you need a complete rear, housing and all.
HTH,
Gene