2 valve engine in a 89 notch?

CarMichael Angelo

my rearend will smell so minty fresh,
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
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Birmingham, al
I'm gonna do it either way, but before I go cutting and welding the mount pads on the 4 cyl k member to allow the engine to fit, I just wanted to see if there was a "proper" way to get the motor to sit where it needs to.

I was going to put the engine/trans in a different project but things have changed, and now this is the plan.
 
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If you are talking 4.6 2 valve, you should just use a 96+ kmember and bolt it in, there is a little modifying to the bolt locations but I heard it isn't bad. You may need the hydroboost setup too... I know you do for the 4valve for sure. It is a lot of work... Bolting it up is the easy part.
Kevin
 
A lot of work is an understatement. I stabbed the engine/trans in just as a mock up. and I had to remove it to remove the power brake booster, & cut the tops off of the mount pads on the k member. I re-installed the combo w/o any brake M/C just to see how it would sit. I don't even see how any master cylinder is going to sit next to the engine (manual might barely get by) unless this hydro boost is staggered way to the right. And, w/ 1/4" of oil pan to rack clearance it still looks like its way too high in the front. The trans mount is way off as well. I haven't even looked at the drive shaft yet.

I thought "fox body is as fox body does",..but clearly Ford changed a bunch of stuff when they came out w/SN-95.

If I change the K member to a 94-96 piece will that fix these issues, and will I have to change out the rest of the front end once the k member is swapped?

I cant even imagine how a dohc would fit.
 
Hey look at the el paso craigslist adds under car parts and type in mustang. A guy has the Maximum motorsports k member new to do this swap. Its been on there for a long time so you could probably score it pretty cheap and its a no fab job. You just have find out how much the frieght will be. Good luck and I know this thing will turn out to be a beast!
 
well, after doing a little research, & (like You all have already pointed out) There is a minimal labor k member swap as the "right" way to go. OR There is also the highly labor intensive do-it-yourself version that basically involves butchering the stock k member, building the necessary tubular reinforcement to add back the strength you hacked out, re-locating the rack 3/4" lower, then reinforcing the center section that you basically cut in half to allow the rack to lower 3/4", finally making your own engine mount pads.

had this been a couple of years ago, I just would've flopped for the easy way out and bought a new k member, but since it's not,...I chose to spend the last 14 hours w/ the cut/grind/weld option.

while not for every one, I have all of the junk and skill to do it. Besides, it only truly cost about 60.00 for "expendables" (cut off wheels, flap wheels, saw blades) and I get to put the engine where I want it to go as a perk.

I still have to make the mount pads,.. and I'll get that done tomorrow It looks pretty good. I will take some pics and post them if any body is interested.