Fabricating a stainless efi tank for my 1965 mustang

Fabricating a stainless efi tank for my 1965 mustang and EFI conversion

I am finally getting out of the stone ages ;D and putting efi on my car this winter. Along with that the other goal of this winter was to quiet the car down. We go on a lot of trips with it and it was on the edge of being to noisy on the inside despite all of the insulating I did.

One of the large culprits of all of my noise was my fuel pump, so I decided to build a new tank and mount the pump inside to kill some decibels. This will also get rid of the sump-ed look from the back of the car. In addition to quieting it down I wanted to add some fuel capacity at the same time. A fuel cell is out of the question as the trunk space is a must.

Here are some pictures of what I have done so far:

This piece will be a recess welded into the top of the tank for access to everything inside and the wiring will bulk head through here also. The reason for the recess is on the old mustangs the top of the tank is also part of the trunk floor. There will eventually be a cover over this so it is all hidden and protected.
efitank001-1.jpg

efitank002-1.jpg

efitank003-1.jpg

efitank004-1.jpg


This will be the top of the tank and the trunk floor. It is raised 1 1/2" from stock to increase fuel capacity.
efitank005-1.jpg

efitank007-1.jpg


This is the main body of the tank. It is 1 1/2" deeper than stock to add capacity.
efitank009-1.jpg

efitank018-1.jpg


Here is basically what it will look like once assembled. Like I mentioned the piece sitting on top will be cut in and recessed down.
efitank015-1.jpg

efitank013-1.jpg

efitank011-1.jpg

efitank010-1.jpg


The pump will mount inside of a "baffle pan" I am going to build this week. There will be quite a bit of internal baffling to keep the sloshing to a minimum.

The supply and return lines will be internally plumbed to ports that will exit on the passenger side of the tank. With the top being in the trunk I did not want the connections coming out of the top.

When all of the welding is done it will get either a brushed finish or painted, not sure on that yet..
 
  • Sponsors (?)


co6b5ra,
You said: "The whole thing is stainless steel so it will nver rust." Be careful to not be fooled by it being "stainless steel", it may not "rust" per-se, but it will corrode, especially at/near the welds where the metallurgy of the stainless has been compromised by the heat of the welding. What is the material of the welding wire/rod you are using? A proper inner coating over a properly prepared surface wouldn't hurt. With all that said, you will likely not see any problem as soon as you would with a standard steel tank. By the way, nice work and planning.:nice:
My $.02,
Gene
 
co6b5ra,
You said: "The whole thing is stainless steel so it will nver rust." Be careful to not be fooled by it being "stainless steel", it may not "rust" per-se, but it will corrode, especially at/near the welds where the metallurgy of the stainless has been compromised by the heat of the welding. What is the material of the welding wire/rod you are using? A proper inner coating over a properly prepared surface wouldn't hurt. With all that said, you will likely not see any problem as soon as you would with a standard steel tank. By the way, nice work and planning.:nice:
My $.02,
Gene

I have been building stainless steel tanks and equipment for many industries including many chemical palnts and food applications for 15 years. I am well aware of the possibility of carbonizing. Typically this issue come up more ofter whem the metal is welded to hot, however it can arise from other circumstances. I am TIG welding this entire tank with 308L filler rod and the tank itself is 304L. After the tank is welded I am having it passivated which will remove any cabonizing caused by the welding heat. I have done many tanks without passavating (most food applications are not passivated, just polished to remove surface contamination)and never had a problem, however in some chemical applications I have had mild "corrosion" issues come up hence why I am going to go ahead and passivate this tank. :flag:
 
Made some more progress today.

I could not find an electrical bulkhead I liked so I decided to make my own. Just took some 1/2" plastic bolts, drilled and tapped them to 10-32, and inserted a 10-32 stud.
efitank027.jpg

efitank026.jpg


Finished up the inside of the tank. Added the return port and got the sending unit mounted.
efitank029.jpg

efitank028.jpg


Welded up most of the outside seams.
efitank034.jpg

efitank033.jpg

efitank032.jpg

efitank030.jpg


Got the top all tacked on and ran out of argon for the welder so here is how she sits untill Monday when I can get some more argon.
efitank025.jpg

efitank036.jpg
 
WOW that's some very nice work. Feel like making another one LOL!

Actually I am making two simotanously right now....The second one is spoken for though:D. If you are interested in one I could possibly do a couple more. Also I will have my sumped stock tank for sale shortly. It is just a stock tank I welded a sump onto, it looks really nice, I just wanted this pump inside.
 
Out of curiosity, why not AL ?

No good solid reason :).

I just have much more access to SS, my welder is a 1972 linde and the high frequencey is shakey at times, and I thought the stainless would be more appealing to the street car crowd (I could be wrong here). The only real downside to it is the weight (this thing is a little heavy). I was also a little concerned about corrosion with E85 and aluminum, but I am not sure that would have been an issue either.

Aluminum probably would have been a little easier to work with overall.
 
Yeah, I've really grown to love Al in the past year or so. Bet that 10 was just tons oh fun bending. Have a car here I'm anxious to put 6063 exhaust on to see the difference in weight lol. The tank's probably a little heavy, but won't oxidize nearly as fast.