---FWIW, I have been through just about every step-by-step guide on nearly every site and at one point or another ran into a "where does this mention my situation?" or "okay, so how do I test the hall effect?" even looked some over 4-5 times so as to translate the authors' terminology or just scratched my head and moved on to another paragraph... cause for example, there's no 10-pin connector at* the EGR Time Delay Switch/EGR Vacuum Solenoid (AKA Salt & Pepper Shakers), that's only 2 x 2-terminal connectors (will search later for a 10-pin on the other end of the wiring harness cause I do have a code 84 even after replacing the switch/solenoid). So now, explanation:
---Fired it up one afternoon and after about 20 seconds of warm-up time and all went silent. No cough, no sputter, no bangs, clanks or grinds. Just "bl-aa-aa-aah" like the plug was pulled.
---Fuel pump is priming, pressurized fuel at fuel rail, nice ripe blue spark present at coil as well as plugs, TFI tested good at What-oZone (though it may be the wrong one), had power to injector I tested, no start using... I so hate doing this on a gas burner, but... ether.
---After testing the module, I hooked it back up and almost got a cough out of it. That was after tapping all four sides of the ECC relay in a lame attempt to clean contacts/etc., without disassembly or replacing a part that may be good (still collecting spare/"diagnostic relays").
---1988 LX 2.3L w/5-speed manual - OBD codes = 21, 24 & 84
---When it comes to this TFI for a manual transmission that Accel makes (35369), is that their own design or did FoMoCo/MoCraft do the same. I'm not getting any different part numbers between AT and MT locally, and freakin What-oZone had prescribed the same P/N module they crossed mine to (when I had it tested), for my bud's `87 5.0 LX 5-speed & gave the same P/N for a 5.0 w/AT... and to top it off, I had to demonstrate how to test the TFI, so as usual, I am not impressed nor am I assured of their competence in finding the right parts without my giving them the part number first.
---TPS voltage was .10v lower than when adjusted after installing new timing belt. The timing belt was installed last year right after we purchased it. I'll be checking the timing marks, TDC and rotor location tomorrow to see if maybe it stepped a tooth or two out of time. Do the tensioners have a high rate of failure? Didn't look like there was much that could go wrong, but I can see myself laughing after countless hours of troubleshooting and find that the spring broke.
---If I were to find no PIP signal is present, that would mean I wouldn't get spark at plugs correct? Or does this fine wiring work backward from how I am thinking? The combined diagram-schematic hasn't helped me much in regards to telling me what controls what and in what sequence.
---Where is this crankshaft position sensor and how hard a task is it going to be to get to it? Can I test it prior to removal or am I stuck with removing the balancer (special puller if it doesn't want to play nice and come off easy?) just to access it? I don't even see a crank position sensor listed at RockAuto for the `88, does it even have one?
---Can you tell I am at wits end with this? If I had the cash I would gut it, tie the frame together upgrade the front stabilizer bar, A-arms and drop an old* 302/351cid w/450/500cfm Holley 2300 on it.
---I have spark but no power w/ether... it can only be timing... right?
edit
-What I forgot:
---The S&P Shaker was throwing a code cause I had lost functionality or the non-vented solenoid. 12v power didn't trip the relay and no continuity w/Ωmeter, so replaced with working, used unit after testing voltages at the 2x2 connectors.
---Fired it up one afternoon and after about 20 seconds of warm-up time and all went silent. No cough, no sputter, no bangs, clanks or grinds. Just "bl-aa-aa-aah" like the plug was pulled.
---Fuel pump is priming, pressurized fuel at fuel rail, nice ripe blue spark present at coil as well as plugs, TFI tested good at What-oZone (though it may be the wrong one), had power to injector I tested, no start using... I so hate doing this on a gas burner, but... ether.
---After testing the module, I hooked it back up and almost got a cough out of it. That was after tapping all four sides of the ECC relay in a lame attempt to clean contacts/etc., without disassembly or replacing a part that may be good (still collecting spare/"diagnostic relays").
---1988 LX 2.3L w/5-speed manual - OBD codes = 21, 24 & 84
---When it comes to this TFI for a manual transmission that Accel makes (35369), is that their own design or did FoMoCo/MoCraft do the same. I'm not getting any different part numbers between AT and MT locally, and freakin What-oZone had prescribed the same P/N module they crossed mine to (when I had it tested), for my bud's `87 5.0 LX 5-speed & gave the same P/N for a 5.0 w/AT... and to top it off, I had to demonstrate how to test the TFI, so as usual, I am not impressed nor am I assured of their competence in finding the right parts without my giving them the part number first.
---TPS voltage was .10v lower than when adjusted after installing new timing belt. The timing belt was installed last year right after we purchased it. I'll be checking the timing marks, TDC and rotor location tomorrow to see if maybe it stepped a tooth or two out of time. Do the tensioners have a high rate of failure? Didn't look like there was much that could go wrong, but I can see myself laughing after countless hours of troubleshooting and find that the spring broke.
---If I were to find no PIP signal is present, that would mean I wouldn't get spark at plugs correct? Or does this fine wiring work backward from how I am thinking? The combined diagram-schematic hasn't helped me much in regards to telling me what controls what and in what sequence.
---Where is this crankshaft position sensor and how hard a task is it going to be to get to it? Can I test it prior to removal or am I stuck with removing the balancer (special puller if it doesn't want to play nice and come off easy?) just to access it? I don't even see a crank position sensor listed at RockAuto for the `88, does it even have one?
---Can you tell I am at wits end with this? If I had the cash I would gut it, tie the frame together upgrade the front stabilizer bar, A-arms and drop an old* 302/351cid w/450/500cfm Holley 2300 on it.
---I have spark but no power w/ether... it can only be timing... right?
edit
-What I forgot:
---The S&P Shaker was throwing a code cause I had lost functionality or the non-vented solenoid. 12v power didn't trip the relay and no continuity w/Ωmeter, so replaced with working, used unit after testing voltages at the 2x2 connectors.
