what kind of oil????

[Mustang5L5]

I'm more of a castrol gtx + fl1a filter guy

My car drives 500 miles a year, so I do one oil change at the beginning of summer...and the drain it at the end of the season.

 

[90lxcoupe]

I did alot of reading about different oils and in the last few years it seems like all the enviormental control has turned most off the shelf oil into junk. From what i read(dont remember where it was, sorry), it seems like either Brad Penn racing oil or Rotella T diesel oil is the way to go. Im switching to Rotella. The diesel oil have no limit on phosphorus levels which protects the valvetrain better than conventional oils which have dropped phosphorus levels to 1/4 of what they were 15 years ago

Just found this, some good info in there
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

 

[Shaolin Crane]

I did alot of reading about different oils and in the last few years it seems like all the enviormental control has turned most off the shelf oil into junk. From what i read(dont remember where it was, sorry), it seems like either Brad Penn racing oil or Rotella T diesel oil is the way to go. Im switching to Rotella. The diesel oil have no limit on phosphorus levels which protects the valvetrain better than conventional oils which have dropped phosphorus levels to 1/4 of what they were 15 years ago

Just found this, some good info in there
Car Bibles : The Engine Oil Bible

They have, when we do jobs at the refineries you should see how they treat their "prime" oil. Needless to say all oils are the same. If you want good oil, pick a brand and add zinc to it.

 

[giddyup306]

I hate to bring up an old thread but I thought this was worth mentioning...

I'm going to be dynoing my 347 in the next week or so, so I called my friend Matt to see if the rest of my stuff came in. We got to talking, and he said that he had just built and dyno'd an engine for this guy. Ran great on the dyno, but it came back leaking oil out of every gasket. He did a leakdown test. 5 of the cylinders were fine, but the other 3 had 50% blowby. Turns out the first thing the guy did once he got it is put synthetic oil in it.

Thought this was worth mentioning...

 

[torch93]

oh dam? ya i just went with gtx 1030 and a mag. on the filter, its my DD and syn could get pricey for me and dont wanna be switching.. but man that sux for that guy

 

[Jawbone]

Big advantage of synthetic oil is that it doesn't break down at high temps and it does not absorb water.
Jawbone

 

[90lxcoupe]

They have, when we do jobs at the refineries you should see how they treat their "prime" oil. Needless to say all oils are the same. If you want good oil, pick a brand and add zinc to it.

or just buy a diesel oil

 

[DucatiRdr]

I can't imagine syn oil caused all of those problems. How may OEMs spec syn oil as their initial fill? Porsche for one. Ducati. Who else?

 

[Shaolin Crane]

or just buy a diesel oil

They treat all the oil the same, including the diesel oil.

 

[DucatiRdr]

They treat all the oil the same, including the diesel oil.

Explain.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Explain.

Say we're at one of the pipe lines testing or reapiring the meters, when we're done we'll have about a 5 gallon bucket full of a coctail of fuels, 85, 87, diesel, ethanol etc. Rather than having a waste tank to pour it into, they'll have us either pour it into the diesel tank, or one of the oil tanks, and i'll quote "bah there's enough in there it wont hurt it" Do this to 10-15 meters and thats quite a bit of stuff, workers will also dump dirty oil, etc into the tanks.

 

[90lxcoupe]

They treat all the oil the same, including the diesel oil.

So then why do diesel oils claim to have higher zinc values than regular oils and no EPA regulations on them? they couldnt advertise that stuff and just lie about it.

 

[DucatiRdr]

So then why do diesel oils claim to have higher zinc values than regular oils and no EPA regulations on them? they couldnt advertise that stuff and just lie about it.

There are definitely differences between oils. I think Shaolin was saying that there is lots of other things besides oil in our oil as the result of half assed treatment of the product during production and testing.

 

[90lxcoupe]

well to say you can dump whatever oil in your motor and it makes no difference is pretty silly

 

[DucatiRdr]

well to say you can dump whatever oil in your motor and it makes no difference is pretty silly

Agree! After being in the motorcycle circles for years and reading the write-ups from oil engineers, I have my opinions and I'm sticking to them. A Group IV or V synthetic is where it's at. Unless you don't have cats, leave the diesel oils in the diesel trucks, that is, if you can find a weight suitable to your climate/driving conditions.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

well to say you can dump whatever oil in your motor and it makes no difference is pretty silly

Thats not the point i was trying to make, BRAND makes no difference to me, because alot of times, one refinery will sell to MANY brands. If you want a good oil, buy your favorite and use additives.

Buy a diesel oil if you want, but i would still add Zinc and stabilizer to them. Just because they have more, doesnt tell you HOW much more they have.

Maybe i'm just scarred by how they treat petroleum products.

 

[DucatiRdr]

Thats not the point i was trying to make, BRAND makes no difference to me, because alot of times, one refinery will sell to MANY brands. If you want a good oil, buy your favorite and use additives.

So the shade-tree mechanic weilding the power of the internet has more insight on what additives a "quality" oil needs than the engineers that developed it? I agree that there is a lot of snake oil out there, but when you buy quality, generally you get quality. Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is top notch stuff. Download the spec sheets and take a look.

While a particular refinery may indeed make the base oils for a lot of smaller manufacturers, you cannot generalize and say that after that point all oils are the same. The different sub manufacturers add their own blends of proprietary additives, stabilizers, detergents, etc, all designed to work together. Throw your own Lucas Oil Stabilizer or STP Oil Treatment and you are going to **** things up. Period. Oil is "done" when it comes out of the bottle. No need for any fettering by the end user. Just buy quality and you should be fine. Synthetic group IV or V is best. Add a rare-earth magnet to your oil filter and you are good to go.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

Ive built many engines, and have always ran shelf penzoil. Never have i "****ed" up an engine. You dont even need a rare earth magnet. 99% of people who are concerned with the "whats the best oil" question. Change their oil often enough that brand, magnets, etc Arent really needed. I truly hope you dont think that all oils are "done" when you get them home, especially if you're running flat tappet setups.

I think you're getting the word "brand" confused here, im not saying to go run recycled oil that you filtered yourself in the garage. I'm saying you dont need to go spend $15 a quart on synthetics.

 

[DucatiRdr]

You dont even need a rare earth magnet. 99% of people who are concerned with the "whats the best oil" question. Change their oil often enough that brand, magnets, etc Arent really needed. I truly hope you dont think that all oils are "done" when you get them home, especially if you're running flat tappet setups.

A couple of magnets on the filter will do zip for lubrication, but will certainly improve filtration of even the orange Fram cans immensely. Have you seen the power ratings of the rare earth magnets? Try one and cut your filter, then let me know what amount of ferrous particles are in there. A lot of this dust gets through your 1 micron oil filter.

My Ducati doesn't have valve springs, but uses fingers to open and close the valves (no float possible), I guess you could call that flat tappet. Redline is past 10K...4.1" pistons, 11.5:1 compression. Off the shelf synthetic oil. No additional additives necessary. The 2010 synthetic oils > conventional oils.

 

[Shaolin Crane]

A couple of magnets on the filter will do zip for lubrication, but will certainly improve filtration of even the orange Fram cans immensely. Have you seen the power ratings of the rare earth magnets? Try one and cut your filter, then let me know what amount of ferrous particles are in there. A lot of this dust gets through your 1 micron oil filter.

My Ducati doesn't have valve springs, but uses fingers to open and close the valves (no float possible), I guess you could call that flat tappet. Redline is past 10K...4.1" pistons, 11.5:1 compression. Off the shelf synthetic oil. No additional additives necessary. The 2010 synthetic oils > conventional oils.

Yes i'm very aware of the power of a rare earth magnet. We built many 1300cc stroker cbr1000's, 13:1 compression, blah blah blah. And we didnt use synthetic. Not one of them blew. And we ran straight 10w Valvoline oil in it. Added a little Zinc and they ran happy all day long even in the temps of Pahrump. 2010 Conventional Oil> 2010 Synthetic Oil