T-5 popping out of 2nd and grinding in 5th

trinity1988

New Member
Jan 16, 2011
17
0
1
Redmond, OR
I have been having some weird issues with my T-5. I just recently bought the car and the org owner mentioned that going into 2nd, you have to put it into gear quick or if you hold the clutch too long it will grind and pop out. He said it never did that with the original shifter. I checked the adjustment on the Pro5.0 and it's good.

The other issue I noticed is that when I'm cruising along around 2000-2300 rpm in 5th I get a grinding noise while under a load. If I let off the gas, it goes away, lay into the throttle a little more and it comes back.

The car is in the 350hp neighborhood with 3.73's. Any thoughts?

Thanks,
Eric
 
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The longer you wait, the more expensive it will get. Synchros is prolly all it needs, but if you keep grinding away on the trans, the gears themselves will go. Those are more expensive than some synchro's.
 
Im gonna call a shift for your second gear problem thats what was wrong with mine and it was doing about the same thing. Either you broke the nylon pads on it or the actual fork itself is broke or it could be a synchro. but as far as 5th goes could be a bearing possibly or maybe the tailshaft bushing is wore out and causing the driveline to vibrate that also is something that was wrong with mine and it only done that in 5th gear. If your plannin on doing a rebuild check out Thegearbox.org they have those hard to find shift forks and alot of other parts including rebuild kits. I actually heard about them from a guy here on Stangnet. Hope this helps, Good Luck
 
I don't know how you feel about the DYI thing when it comes to gears, some people don't like the idea of working on transmissions. If the DYI transmission fix idea isn't something that you would rather leave to someone else, here are some resources:

See TTC: Product Literature to download a FREE service manual for T5 or Tremec 3550/TKO
You will need the Adobe Acrobat viewer which is also a free download – Adobe - Adobe Reader download - All versions

See Home | www.hanlonmotorsports.com or Welcome to D&D Performance - The 5 & 6 Speed Experts! for parts

A T5 rebuild kit with syncros, bearings and other small parts costs about $160. It does not include any gears or shafts.

Home | www.hanlonmotorsports.com also has a video on how to rebuild your T5 or Tremec. It costs about $20, and is worth every penny of it.

I did a Tremec 3550 rebuild, and it wasn't that difficult. The video was an immense help, and I would recommend viewing it. At $20, it will give you an opportunity to look and decide for yourself if you think that it is something you want to try to do.

For Tremec 3550 and TKO's:
You will also need a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure the endplay ($40-$120). Browse the MSC Big Book

T5 Shim kits – best product I have seen in a while… T5 World Class 5 Speed Shims
“The Peel ‘n Place T5 World Class shim kit makes shimming T5 counter gear and main drive gears very easy.”

The tricky part is that you will need some shims to adjust the endplay in the two shafts: the new bearings will change the clearance. There is no way of telling what it will be until you get to the point that it is time to measure and check the clearances. Halon has the individual shims if you can wait for them. If you can't afford the wait, the auto parts store can sell you some shim stock and you can make your own, or have a machine shop make them for you. The shim stock comes in brass (easy to cut) and steel, in varying thicknesses. That's where the dial indicator & base come in - there is no way to get the clearance right without it.

Getting the car jacked up high enough to get the trans jack in and out from under the car was somewhat challenging. Since I didn't have a helper, getting the trans out of the car and back it was one of the more difficult things about the job. I built a trans jack out of 2x6's, some angle iron and a $25 floor jack. If I hadn't done that, I would have needed a helper or to rent a commercial trans jack. At 100+ pounds the Tremec 3550 was far too heavy for me to lift by myself.
 
That's what is weird, I don't grind in any gears like my old fox did. It shifts great. The only time I notice it want to pop out of gear is if I am coming up to corner or slow down point, hold in the clutch, put it into 2nd and leave it there a bit, then let the clutch out. If I shift to second and let the clutch out immediately, it's golden. As for 5th gear grinding, like I said it's only under load, cruising down the highway it's fine until I open her up a little (above 2k). It even does it in 4th if I downshift to cruise up a hill (it's a little hilly around these parts).

Thanks for all the responses!
 
BLACKFOX93

What did you mean by "Im gonna call a shift for your second gear problem"?

As for the shift fork, can that be done in the car or is this a drop the tranny scenario too?

Shifter fork replacement require removal of the transmission.

Download the free manual from the link I posted. That will show you what you can do with the transmission in the car (very little) and what you need to pull the transmission to do.
 
If I'm going to all the work of pulling the tranny out and replacing shift forks and tailshaft bushing, should I just go through it with the basic rebuild kit? The tranny shifts great, no typical syncros grinding.

Thanks for the help!
 
Thats what I did but its gonna set you back around 4-500 bucks trust me just now got my car back together from a rebuild but I did a complete ford racing rebuild kit, new shift forks throughout, throwout bearing, pilot, tailshaft bushing, the works. T5 parts are really getting hard to find had to get all mine online just about