Is this re-pop madness or?

Hi guys, I haven't been around in a while, still picking away at the 65 vert as time permits. I've had more than my fair share of horrific re-pop parts not fitting even remotely close so far but this is before my time. Before I got the car it was restored to some degree by some shop full of chimps so I keep finding new surprises :mad:. Anyway, I welded in a new trunk piece in and while hammering my welds on the drop down panel, near the rear corner, a chunk of filler cracked. After some picking, and then a whole lot of grinding I was left with this massive gap. The quarter was replaced at some time, is this really how bad the re-pop bits actually fit? Not that I would be surprised, it's about what I've had with everything else but still. I'm going to add metal to the quarter I suppose, just wondering if any of you have had anything this far off? It's a good 1/2" apart :nonono:

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As far as aftermarket parts are concerned, I can't think of any that fit as poorly as the rear valance. Anyone that can add 3/4" to them would corner the market.
 
As far as aftermarket parts are concerned, I can't think of any that fit as poorly as the rear valance. Anyone that can add 3/4" to them would corner the market.

Somebody does it. I bought a repo standard 65' panel from CJ Pony parts and it is a little too wide--wants to overlap the quarters slightly. I guess it is better to have too much than to not have enough. LOL
 
Actually on mine it was the quarters that were the problem and not the valance as I reused my old valance. I made a patch panel and welded them together with no seam.
 
Well that's good to know and disturbing as well. I really can't get over how bad everything they re-pop is.

Be careful with that "everything". The hood in these photos is original. The fenders are "original tool". Everything else that's blue, white, "wood", or black is repro. You have to know which sources are best, and deal with the ones that don't measure up. Some repro stuff is actually better than original.

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Be careful with that "everything". You have to know which sources are best, and deal with the ones that don't measure up. Some repro stuff is actually better than original.


Well come on man, spill the beans on these good repro parts :D

I do know what you mean about original parts being pretty brutal in their own right though. I have my share of issues with that too, but all the repro stuff I have ever got is genuinely terrible, to the point of ridiculous.
 
Well come on man, spill the beans on these good repro parts :D

The repro 4-speed shift levers I have seen make originals look like junk. The antenna I have could be passed off as NOS. I checked out a 67 deluxe instrument bezel for someone the other day, and it was at least as good as OEM. Anything from Dead Nuts or Scott Fuller is probably better than original. Alloy Metal wiring harnesses. Only one tiny detail makes them distinguishable from NOS.

On the other hand, the last few years of Ford fenders were often not welded together right, and the dies were so shot the creases were too soft. The last few years of Ford bumpers were absolute crap. My Nordans, purchased when the Fords were still available, were excellent. Sadly, Nordan has gone down the crapper.
 
Thanks for those references. I don't recall ever getting a part that didn't need heavy modification to fit for any vehicle I've built. Actually replacement fenders for 1974 - 1987 Chev trucks are pretty good, I rebuilt one of those a while back and was pleasantly surprised.
 
My 67 is full of repop....fenders, passenger door, hood, trunk lid, quarter extensions, front and rear valance. The only thing that fit properly was the door. Everything else required modification, some slight (hood, trunk lid) some heavy (quarter extensions and rear valance). The fenders I had to find a happy medium with the gaps, but they look OK. The patch panels were complete crap. When you can find it, get the original tooling, you will save money in terms of time and you won't have anything modified.
 
Wow, that's the exact same thing I'm going through now. I forgot to get the rear valence to the painter while he had the car. So I go to NPD in Ocala to get a valence like the one above among other parts. I did not pre fit it to the car before taking it to the painter and when i tried to fit it after paint it was a gap of 3/8 to 7/16 on the right side as well. Semi-expensive lesson learned to pre fit before paint but I must admit that most other repop peices that I got fit rather well including the doors and trunk lid (the second one) so I thought I might take a chance. I ended up repairing an unwanted hole on stock valence and right hand bracket as it did not meet the repop lower quarter panel very well. It all fits well now with stock valence.
 
That's critical. Prefitting is the key to excellent results. A car should be fully assembled before any serious body work is attempted.

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That's what I'm doing, but I'm also learning that some of the stuff that looked good from before isn't at all when I strip it right down. Not a big deal, just more work and the good news is I'm also the painter. It'll be totally reassembled as I do the bodywork, then blown up for painting jambs, under hoods, trunk and doors, then reassembled for final paint.

I don't think my supplier goes through anyone that has access to much in the way of original tooling parts. I live on an island on the west coast of Canada so shipping costs are pretty bad if you don't have a huge order.