I'm changing the rear pads on my Cobra, and I can't get the pistons on either caliper to retract. I've tried using two different break pad spreaders, but the piston's just aren't moving at all. Any solutions to this problem? I've never had this issue before when I've changed break pads on other cars.
brake job problem
- Thread starter zzyzx
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Twete
Member
I had the same issue on my GT when I was replacing the pads a while back. Usually means the caliper is shot or needs a rebuild, I ended up buying a replacement unit.
Look at my thread I posted yesterday and where we were talking about the rear brakes. You need a special "tool" to spin the piston back into a compressed state.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/832679-changing-brake-pads-where-grease.html#post8387833
You don't have to buy new calipers.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/832679-changing-brake-pads-where-grease.html#post8387833
You don't have to buy new calipers.
Twete
Member
This is a good point, I was under the impression you had already tried using the autozone tool. The rear caliper pistons have to be turned in order to be compressed, the autozone adapter hooks up to a ratchet so you can rotate the piston. I tried using the tool with no luck and thats why I bought the new caliper.
It's a pain in the butt. For awhile I was wondering if my calipers weren't shot since the piston was so far out and seemed stuck. I worked on it (with pressure applied) and finally it loosened up. Toward the end it was pretty loose. I left my brake master cylinder cap off cause the fluid does raise while doing this.
Be sure to do it far enough or else you'll end up removing the pads to compress it some more.
Maxpowers
Member
Yes. You do need the tool on the rear. A little bit of grease will not hurt anything. Just be sure non of it gets onto the pads.
Keep working it with that tool and see if they loosen up. If not, you may need a new one. They do get rusty and bad after some time.
Keep working it with that tool and see if they loosen up. If not, you may need a new one. They do get rusty and bad after some time.
Rejekt
Member
trombonedemon
Well-Known Member
You talkin' about the that cube that OEM makes, straight garbage. Had to end up using the needle nose plyers anyway.
There should be a tool that bolts up and turns the pistons w/socket and ratchet.
There is and its magic. I have the one from MATCO, SnapOn and MAC have versions as well. I have seen one from Harbor Freight also thats pretty much the same thing.
I needed this bad boy for the fronts on my mustang (2000 R front) and I use it for my Volvo (factory 330mm rotors with 4 piston Brembo calipers all around).
There is and its magic. I have the one from MATCO, SnapOn and MAC have versions as well. I have seen one from Harbor Freight also thats pretty much the same thing.
I needed this bad boy for the fronts on my mustang (2000 R front) and I use it for my Volvo (factory 330mm rotors with 4 piston Brembo calipers all around).
Sweet!
How's that work? Have any pictures of it in action? And what do they run? I have a Harbor Freight near me.Sweet!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ppffCnGcUWU
That particular tool was in teh $150 range IIRC.
The one for the rear calipers from Harbor Freight was really cheap last time i checked. Its perfect for the DIYer because you will only use it a couple times.
http://www.matcotools.com/Catalog/toolcatalog.jsp?cattype=T&cat=2201&select=&page=3
Second one down on that page is the oen that uses a ratchet.
Twete
Member
Agreed! I was working at a Carquest store at the time and bought the tool for extra cheap, it kept slipping when I used it so I resorted to some needle nose pliers and had much better luck!
