Confused with '66 motor mounts- what do I really need?

'66 Mustang, now my 'questions about everything' thread!

I have a 1966 Ford Mustang coupe with a 1980-82 Mustang 200ci and original 3 speed transmission. I have a 5.0L from a 1998 Ford Explorer that I would like to drop in the Mustang. I've been told that all 289 and 302 blocks use the same mounting holes no matter what year. I've tried to find exactly what I need to mount this engine, but it seems like all I can find are the frame mounts- but nothing that goes from the engine to the frame mounts. I've also found 2 or 3 different kinds of frame mounts, so I'm confused as to what I really need. I've been a Chevy guy all my life so Fords are a little new to me!

Can someone show me exactly what I have to buy in order to get this motor physically mounted in the car?
 
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Ford used a 2 piece V8 mount on both sides of the motor, from 66' and up. One piece is a rubber motor mount and that is commonly available through most auto parts stores. They look like this:

MM2257.jpg


The second piece of the puzzle is metal and it connects the rubber mount to the 3 bolts that you found on the shock tower. They are harder to find original , but they are reproduced.. They do turn up often on ebay and most Mustang type recycling places will know what you need. Here are the factory original parts for a 66':

66motorshocktowermounts.jpg


Reproductions found a CJ pony parts:

EFB1.jpg


You are not limited to using just the 66' motor mounts parts. They use similar mounts that will work through at least 72'. There is something weird about the 67' mounts though so you might want to avoid original ones for that year.
 
These Ron Morris motor mounts are adjustable from front to rear and side to side. They are a solid mount so there will be some added vibration. Provides 3.5" of front to rear adjustment and 1" of side to side adjustment. This can aid the installation of headers and transmission swaps. Polyurethane bushings isolate engine vibrations, yet stand up to the torque of a high performance stroker. Made of zinc plated steel. Will lower engine 1/2" (cannot separate due to thru-bolt design). I have these on my 64 (a performance build) and love them. I have an AOD and these gave me the wiggle room I needed. If you plan on trans swaps in the future or have a desire to skinch (skinch is a highly technical term) the engine over any way, here is your mount. Just google ron morris adjustable engine moint, I think CJ Pony sells them for around 175.00 so they are not cheap. They will fit any year 302 or 5.0. Just providing another option. Happy Wrenching!
 

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These Ron Morris motor mounts are adjustable from front to rear and side to side. They are a solid mount so there will be some added vibration. Provides 3.5" of front to rear adjustment and 1" of side to side adjustment. This can aid the installation of headers and transmission swaps. Polyurethane bushings isolate engine vibrations, yet stand up to the torque of a high performance stroker. Made of zinc plated steel. Will lower engine 1/2" (cannot separate due to thru-bolt design). I have these on my 64 (a performance build) and love them. I have an AOD and these gave me the wiggle room I needed. If you plan on trans swaps in the future or have a desire to skinch (skinch is a highly technical term) the engine over any way, here is your mount. Just google ron morris adjustable engine moint, I think CJ Pony sells them for around 175.00 so they are not cheap. They will fit any year 302 or 5.0. Just providing another option. Happy Wrenching!

X2 on these mounts. They are the same price you will pay for the stock setup which is crap. These are the ones i have, and it did help with header / motor install. 289/302/351 all have the same motor mount point on the block.
 
Thanks for all the replys guys, I see what I need now. I was kind of confused about how they went together. I think I will try to find a set of used stock frame mounts, and then get the new rubber motor mounts from Napa. Those Ron Morris mounts look like a killer setup, but they'd be worth more than the car is! :rlaugh:

One other question, are the right and left interchangeable? And is there any other cars I could pull the frame mount from at a junkyard?
 
If you mix up the right/left (they can bolt in wrong) it will set your engine/trans combo forward a couple inches(+or-). I believe that prior to a certain date in 1965 they are different and the difference on 67s is with the convertibles (either higher or lower). Just install them so that they position the engine to the most rearward spot. Great swap/upgrade you are doing. Are you keeping the EFI or changing over to a carb? That engine likely has GT40/P heads which are supposedly the best flowing cast iron small block heads Ford ever made, but cause issues for header fitment due to a modified spark plug angle. I have them on my 5.0 with some Try-Y headers (unknown brand) that were supposedly made (11 plus years ago) for these heads but I still had to ding them a bit to get tiny 5/16" headed header bolts in and #2 plug wire (Ford Racing brand) needed the boot trimmed for clearance. By now several folks make headers for these heads but are a bit pricey. Some folks claim that certain Heddman an Hooker long tubes will work with a minimum of massaging. Put a T5 (1990 or later V8 Mustang, NO V6 or 4 cylinder transmissions) behind that 5.0 with 3.25-3.55 gears in the rear and you should be rockin'!:burnout: Keep us posted on your progress. Ask plenty of questions, as there are some pretty sharp folks here.
Good Luck,
Gene
 
I would be swapping to a carb and distributor on the 5.0L. It does have the GT40P heads (or at least it should, being a 98), and the factory 'tube style' shorty headers, which I might try and use them in the Mustang too. If I got creative enough, I could probably even use the Y pipe off the Explorer.

I have a Maverick 8" rear end that I'm planning on using. I don't know the exact year on the car and it will be spring until I can find out since its covered in 3 feet of snow.

I've been planning on sourcing a T5, but recently I've read several mentions of a '4 speed toploader', which sounds like what could've come in this car factory. Is there another car I could find one of these transmissions in?
 
I've been planning on sourcing a T5, but recently I've read several mentions of a '4 speed toploader', which sounds like what could've come in this car factory. Is there another car I could find one of these transmissions in?

The toploader does not have overdrive, if that is a concern. It is a tougher transmission though.

Late 1965-73 Mustangs and 67-73 Cougars with 289, 302, or 351 motor are the correct length and have the shifter mounting locations in the correct place for Mustangs. It will also be the least hassle to bolt in. Early 65' Mustang toploaders are not always compatible due to the way that the toploader mounts to the bellhousing.
 
For 65-66, the actual motor mount is the same side to side. The frame mounts are specific right to left. The converible mounts are taller but you dont need to worry about that. You also dont need to worry about the weird 67 mounts.
Im very happy with the T-5 in my 66. Im using the original bell, clutch linkage, and a spacer plate.
 
Well, I think I've found a set of lower mounts for about 20$, should know by Sunday.

The toploader does not have overdrive, if that is a concern. It is a tougher transmission though.

Late 1965-73 Mustangs and 67-73 Cougars with 289, 302, or 351 motor are the correct length and have the shifter mounting locations in the correct place for Mustangs. It will also be the least hassle to bolt in. Early 65' Mustang toploaders are not always compatible due to the way that the toploader mounts to the bellhousing.

There is an early Bronco in the yard where I work that I believe has a 4 speed toploader, didn't really get a good look. It's got a V8 and a hurst shifter, but also 4wd. Worth pulling out and possibly converting to 2wd?
 
As far as I know, a 4 speed toploader was not factory installed in a Bronco, although there are conversion kits to do it. Most, if not all, of the manual transmissions were 3 speed toploader models. Even so, it is well worth checking it out since the swap is a very popular conversion in the early Bronco world. You can ID the difference of the 2 trannys easily by counting the # of shifter levers on the driver's side of the tranny case--4 speed has 3 levers and a 3 speed will have only 2.

This photo shows the stubs where the 3 levers would be found:

Toploaderbiginputswap101.jpg


It can also be ID'd by having a 10 bolt cover on top of the tranny. A 3 speed uses only 9 bolts.

If by chance you do find a true 4 toploader speed, then all that would be needed is a 24" output shaft and the Mustang/Cougar specific tailhousing in order to fit your car. The shifter might work as the Hurst box is fairly generic, but you would need a different installation kit (mount, levers, and rods) to match the Mustang.

Output shafts and tailhousings go fairly cheap on ebay and if the tranny was free you "could" have less than $200 in the tranny if you have the mechanical skills to swap the parts out and the tranny is found in good shape. The transmission will need disassembled in order to replace the output shaft. New replacement parts are readily available and 100% of everything is reproduced for the 4 speed toploader. The shifter installation kit is also available new for around $130.
 
Sounds like that might be the way to go if it is actually a 4 speed. I want to say I remember 3 shift levers because I was eyeballing the shift lever for my 3 speed, but it of course only has 2. I'll go double check later today and grab a couple pictures.
 
Well, the transmission turned out to only be a 3 speed, I guess the 3rd rod I remember was for the t-case.

I did manage to score an A/C delete bracket and pulley off a late 80's F150 5.0L, so I'm one step closer with being able to ditch the power steering and A/C from the Explorer setup.
 
Here's all the pics I have of it, I posted the story behind it in the Welcome Forum. Basicly the plan is to get the chassis in good shape, get everything working, throw some glass in it and drive it!

When I first got it:

GEDC0602.jpg


GEDC0600.jpg


After cleaning it up a bit:

GEDC0611.jpg


GEDC0612.jpg


GEDC0613.jpg


GEDC0614.jpg


GEDC0615.jpg
 
Well, I just got back from Napa ordering all new chassis parts. My wallet sure feels lighter now!

I ordered L+R inner tie rods, L+R outer tie rods, new tie rod adjusters, idler arm, pitman arm, rubber motor mounts, L+R front shocks, new front coil springs, upper ball joints, and new lower control arms with ball joints, all for a '66 Mustang with a 289.

Everything should be in late this week or early next week hopefully. Still need to find a center link, and figure out if the rear shocks are the same on the Mustang and Maverick rear ends.
 
I know sooner or later I'm going to need a radiator for the 302. I've looked around for the conversion radiators with the lower outlet on the driver's side, and the best I've found so far is one from Mustangs Plus for about 200$, here:

Mustang Parts from Mustangs Plus :: Cooling - Radiators & Fans :: 302-351W Conversion

Has anyone used these radiators before, are they good quality? I'm just going to run a stock 5.0 with a clutch fan so I think this will cool it just fine.