manual brake guys i need some opinions...

gt40_2003wes

I did sound a wee bit gay there.
Aug 14, 2005
461
2
48
ky
so i installed a new cam in the car and the vacuum is **** so i pretty much have no breaks...so i was wondering how good are manual breaks on a 4 lug stang and who makes a good conversion?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


so i installed a new cam in the car and the vacuum is **** so i pretty much have no breaks...so i was wondering how good are manual breaks on a 4 lug stang and who makes a good conversion?

Manual brakes can be as good as power brakes depending on how much trouble you want to go through to get them right.

#1. A new master cylinder w/ a 1" piston bore.
#2. Brake pressure proportioning valve
#3. 10lb residual valve if you have or are going to keep the drum rears.
#4. A firewall mount plate (preferably one that raises the M/C)

The most important part is the brake pedal ratio that you currently have.
Left unchanged, you will have to push your balls off to get it to stop. Changing it involves removing the pedal, and changing where the hole that intersects w/ the M/C pushrod is.
The ideal manual brake pedal ratio is 6:1. The current PB ratio is barely 3:1.
Changing it is also what makes the pedal "competetive" in effort and feel w/ PBs.
I've done all of this stuff to my car. Changing the intersect point requires some compromise. Some of your stock stuff gets in the way once you change the ratio. (i.e. the brakelight switch bumper, and the pull off circuit that runs to your cruise control) For me, that was an acceptable trade off, I just got an inline pressure activated brakelight switch and re-ran the wires out to that switch, and the CC was going anyway.
 
Manual brakes can be as good as power brakes depending on how much trouble you want to go through to get them right.

#1. A new master cylinder w/ a 1" piston bore.
#2. Brake pressure proportioning valve
#3. 10lb residual valve if you have or are going to keep the drum rears.
#4. A firewall mount plate (preferably one that raises the M/C)

The most important part is the brake pedal ratio that you currently have.
Left unchanged, you will have to push your balls off to get it to stop. Changing it involves removing the pedal, and changing where the hole that intersects w/ the M/C pushrod is.
The ideal manual brake pedal ratio is 6:1. The current PB ratio is barely 3:1.
Changing it is also what makes the pedal "competetive" in effort and feel w/ PBs.
I've done all of this stuff to my car. Changing the intersect point requires some compromise. Some of your stock stuff gets in the way once you change the ratio. (i.e. the brakelight switch bumper, and the pull off circuit that runs to your cruise control) For me, that was an acceptable trade off, I just got an inline pressure activated brakelight switch and re-ran the wires out to that switch, and the CC was going anyway.

Thats some good info there
 
max motorsports has a good manual brake kit. It's pricey though, ABout $200 i think. Add in the required MC (call them to discuss which one) and you are looking at $300+

How low is your vac? Do you have gauge readings? You might be able to fix your issue with a vacuum reserve canister, or a supplimental vac pump. Might be cheaper
 
max motorsports has a good manual brake kit. It's pricey though, ABout $200 i think. Add in the required MC (call them to discuss which one) and you are looking at $300+

How low is your vac? Do you have gauge readings? You might be able to fix your issue with a vacuum reserve canister, or a supplimental vac pump. Might be cheaper

yeah,... what he said.

And if you do go w/ their "kit" you need to be sure you ask about some of the issues I've pointed out. Maybe they have a better solution.
 
Manual brakes can be as good as power brakes depending on how much trouble you want to go through to get them right.

#1. A new master cylinder w/ a 1" piston bore.
#2. Brake pressure proportioning valve
#3. 10lb residual valve if you have or are going to keep the drum rears.
#4. A firewall mount plate (preferably one that raises the M/C)

The most important part is the brake pedal ratio that you currently have.
Left unchanged, you will have to push your balls off to get it to stop. Changing it involves removing the pedal, and changing where the hole that intersects w/ the M/C pushrod is.
The ideal manual brake pedal ratio is 6:1. The current PB ratio is barely 3:1.
Changing it is also what makes the pedal "competetive" in effort and feel w/ PBs.
I've done all of this stuff to my car. Changing the intersect point requires some compromise. Some of your stock stuff gets in the way once you change the ratio. (i.e. the brakelight switch bumper, and the pull off circuit that runs to your cruise control) For me, that was an acceptable trade off, I just got an inline pressure activated brakelight switch and re-ran the wires out to that switch, and the CC was going anyway.

thanks a lot this helps that's why i asked because i had no clue what was involved in changing.
 
max motorsports has a good manual brake kit. It's pricey though, ABout $200 i think. Add in the required MC (call them to discuss which one) and you are looking at $300+

How low is your vac? Do you have gauge readings? You might be able to fix your issue with a vacuum reserve canister, or a supplimental vac pump. Might be cheaper

i don't have a reading on it but it's pretty low i have to pin myself against the seat to get enough leverage to do any real slowing when i push the pedal.

i have heard of people taking vacuum canisters out of old cars at junk yards and using that as a vac reserve...but i guess i need to get a reading to see how low it actually is so i know if that will do me any good.
 
I have a mega cam (Duration 290/300, Lift .496/.520) in my 351w in my '83 Fairmont. I had vacuum issues as well. I reused my vacuum reserve ball found inside the pass. side front finder between the wheel and door. Then hooked up a vacuum gauge and adjust timing and recurved the distributor at the same time tuning the carb. Ya its alot adjustments, but sure runs great and I have just enough vacuum to run power brakes and work the heater controls.