Oil pan hitting steering middle steering arm

workingonit

New Member
Mar 30, 2011
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I`d like to start out by saying this is a really nice forum,and that If my question has been asked I haven't found it asked previously so sorry if it has.

Bought this 66 stang with a 200cid like 12 years ago and left it set till the other day. I bought a 302 and c4 rebuilt tranny to put in it the same time i bought the stang. Went to a salvage yard and found a 66 stang that had the 289 motor mounts a few years ago and bought them and the drive shaft/rear end.

3 days ago installed the motor mounts,today went to drop the motor in and the oil pan is hitting the steering arm that crosses from the steering box over to the idler arm,it also looks like the starter would hit it if the oil pan was not in the way.

The motor is out out of a 78 Lincoln, I searched oil pans and they all look the same.

Also the engine was fitted with serpentine pulleys,but is missing the water pump pulley.As far as I can tell the water pump does spin in reverse,the outlet low passengers side

Question, Is there a special oil pan needed? risers for the motor mounts? change the steering arms? input is much appreciated....thanks:)

Ckecked a 289 oil pan on line .the oil pan I have looks very much the same.

Is there a spacer or riser that goes between the motor and mounts?
 
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If it has a serpentine setup I would be willing to bet you can use a waterpump pully off of a Fox Body. Maybe not but they are all over the junkyards so it would be easy/cheap to get and try one.

Which motor mounts are you using ? I think 65/66 are actually slightly different.

Can you post a pic of the pan and the chassis/frame and motor mounts ?
 
The center link aka drag link for the 6cyl and V8 are different. You need to upgrade to V8 linkage.

I dont know if you existing inner outer tie rod will fit. Worse case you may have to upgrade the entire steering linkage. Im not sure, check the 6Cyl to v8 conversion thread sticky.

V8 Linkage - 3304-1

6 CYL Linkage - 3304-1A
 
Is it a front sump pan? I thought the serpentine motors were rear sump? An oil pan for the mustang should be a front sump and may give more clearance than the lincoln pan even if it is a front sump also. Also the difference in centerlinks, idler and pitman from I-6 to V8 are different as mentioned.

6cyl. oil pan for reference of why links would be different:
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=56675A+01

Pics would help of the centerlink and engine with pan.
Jon
 
Ahh, you guys are right. I called a buddy of mine that works at a Ford dealer today and he got out the microfiche. I do have a rear sump pan........never even dawned on me that I should have a front sump since I got the car with out a motor. Thanks for the responses....now I need to get a front sump pan and a pick up for it.
 
Ahh, you guys are right. I called a buddy of mine that works at a Ford dealer today and he got out the microfiche. I do have a rear sump pan........never even dawned on me that I should have a front sump since I got the car with out a motor. Thanks for the responses....now I need to get a front sump pan and a pick up for it.

summit racing has those for a modest cost. also check the timing cover, depending on when the engine was originally manufactured, you may find a doreman plug where the dipstick goes on a front sump pan. that plug pops out fairly easily, so you wont have to drill a hole for the dipstick or replace the timing cover with one for a front sump pan.
 
workingon it,
Besides the oil pickup, I would go the extra few $$ for a "new" oil pump also. Nothing but a Melling M68, M68HV or the (pricier but better) Melling select. Several companies sell Melling oil pumps in their own brand packaging, for example, I bought a Perfect Circle brand from a CarQuest store that had a Melling pump in their box, under their own part number. Open the box and if you see the Melling part number on the pump, you are likely good to go. And don't forget to use thread locker on the bolts of the pump AND the pick up and torque them to correct specs. For the oil pan gasket, I've had the best luck with the FelPro one piece gasket.
HTH,
Gene
 
Thanks for all the replys. The 302 was "built "by Bo Racing. Its supposed to be between 45o and 500 hp. I bought this motor like 10 years ago and when I took the oil pan off to replace it everything looked A-ok. Lucky for me they coated everything with some type of grease ,I was very happy how it all looked.I could see a high pressure high volume oil pump,was happy to see a double roller installed also :)

The motor fit like a glove with the summit oil pan,had to raise the tranny about a 1/2 inch but it is perfect. Hooker made the headers and I was surprised that the passengers side went right in,the drivers side was a real tight fit,I wondered if the motor was off center or something cause there is a inch to spare on 1 side and 1/32 of a inch to spare on the other?

K, Now I need a gas pedal conversion ,Have a holly 650 that sits on a twisted torqer manifold.A shift conversion (Was a straight 6 with manual trannny) A serpentine pulley for a standard water pump,A rear end,Grenada spindles. I want to put disc brakes on the rear. any suggestions on what and where to get some of this stuff?

I have done 3 chevy conversions in the past but never a ford. There is a big difference.Then I get to start on the semi rusted under body body :-( I already put new quarters on it and had a local shop redo the interior, so the body is good, but that under body..............................UHG.
 
Sound like you have it under control now.
You said it was a 6 cyl, Also check the front wheels and spindles, if there 5 lug your ok, if there 4 lug you better change them to a 5 or risk breakage and crash.
Also remember that you have a newer 302 and it could be a 50 oz balance
instead of the old 28oz balance, good to know when you buy parts.
Mix them up and you will have a vibration that will drive you nuts.
 
Yeah have mixed n matched in the past ,some worked out ok some not. Any ideas who sells new grenada spindles,dont really wanna go tromping around salvage yards .need a good rear end,want posi with road gears,motor was built to make power on the low end.Any ideas what rear end would fit best. I have a mig,tig and arc along with a plasma cutter but dont want to use them if i dont have to.Also need to find that serpitine pulley for a stock water pump somewhere.Along i need to find gas peddle and cable, shifter and cable,any one have that for sale or know what works best?

yes they are 4 lug,want to go 5 and rear end with disk also,sounds like I will prob need to replace master cylinder and all the lines also