Power Steering Control Valve?

[palerider94]

I have a leak where the power steering contol valve and pitman arm meet. There is a zerk fitting for pitman arm joint that goes up thru the control valve - see pic. Its on a 70 v8. I'm guessing there is a seal there that is bad and power steering fluid and grease are mixing and making a mess. I can either get a new control valve or rebuild kit. Anybody have any experience with either. Like to get confimed there there is a seal there and was wondering how difficult rebuild (any special tools). Appreciate any help. thanks

 

[chockostang]

I have a leak where the power steering contol valve and pitman arm meet. There is a zerk fitting for pitman arm joint that goes up thru the control valve - see pic. Its on a 70 v8. I'm guessing there is a seal there that is bad and power steering fluid and grease are mixing and making a mess. I can either get a new control valve or rebuild kit. Anybody have any experience with either. Like to get confimed there there is a seal there and was wondering how difficult rebuild (any special tools). Appreciate any help. thanks

The "seal" is inside the control valve body, not out where the ball stud is.

Yes, a fairly good mechanic can replace the seals, o-rings, and gaskets.

Last thing you want to do is Buy a new control valve, Original Bendix are superior pieces.

Dan @ Chockostang

 

[robbz28]

I got a rebuilt bendix unit from Oreillys...cost me around 250 bucks, but it works great, no leaks, even replaced the inverted flares in the fittings. Had it for over a year now. But as soon as this thing starts leaking I am doing the borgenson conversion....might want to consider that route, eliminate all those hoses and control valve stuff.
Remember to get new control valve lines when you replace the valve, because if they put new seats in those fittings your old flares might not seal up good.

 

[palerider94]

Thanks - I'm going to tackle the rebuild myself. The rebuild kit is $20 at autozone. If still problems after that I will look at borgeson unit. Plan on putting one in the 66 project I'm doing now.

Whats the best way to remove from pitman arm?

 

[robbz28]

use a pittman arm puller, do NOT use a ball joint separator, u will ruin your valve...heres on on fleabay....your local parts house should have one of these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lisl...t=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d2e6579fb

 

[robbz28]

Here is a link to some info you might find useful, hope this helps.

http://www.stangerssite.com/CVrebuilding.html

 

[2+2GT]

I got a rebuilt bendix unit from Oreillys...cost me around 250 bucks, but it works great, no leaks, even replaced the inverted flares in the fittings. Had it for over a year now. But as soon as this thing starts leaking I am doing the borgenson conversion....might want to consider that route, eliminate all those hoses and control valve stuff.
Remember to get new control valve lines when you replace the valve, because if they put new seats in those fittings your old flares might not seal up good.

That's a little steep, Glazier/Nolan will do a custom rebuild for less than that.

If you have the correct hoses, and they are clamped properly, using the hose bracket, and you have a clamp around the valve the way you should, it won't leak for 10+ years.

 

[robbz28]

Didnt have time to wait on a rebuild...the shop I work in I have to "get in and get out" over the course of a weekend....it was a lot less than other places, they wanted 300 plus. And I should have mentioned to at least try the hoses, cuz i know they can get expensive. Anyway, as mentioned before, I will definately be doing the conversion whenever I get som extra scratch.

 

[chockostang]

Thanks - I'm going to tackle the rebuild myself. The rebuild kit is $20 at autozone. If still problems after that I will look at borgeson unit. Plan on putting one in the 66 project I'm doing now.

Whats the best way to remove from pitman arm?

Holly goodness are you in for a rude awakening.
You better ask them again what you are getting.

A Quality kit will be around $45-$50.00, which will include the vital pieces, Absolutely necessary to do a quality rebuild.

The issue with removing the control valve is interesting.

The control valve can be removed with one hand, possibly 2 fingers, from the centerlink, once the clamp, and roll pin has been removed.

Yes, Roll pin. These are not noticed, then Folks start Cranking on the control, shear the roll pin, Really screw up All the threads, then can't understand why the Dam Thing is "So Hard To Remove".

Then the next BIG Thing, Reinstall the roll pin, or the steering will be SLOPPY!.

Dan @ Chockostang

 

[candphall]

what engine and header combination are you using. I realise that this does not relate to your post. But I have a 69 cleveland car and have an issue with sterring box clearence.

 

[2+2GT]

Didnt have time to wait on a rebuild...the shop I work in I have to "get in and get out" over the course of a weekend....it was a lot less than other places, they wanted 300 plus. And I should have mentioned to at least try the hoses, cuz i know they can get expensive. Anyway, as mentioned before, I will definately be doing the conversion whenever I get som extra scratch.

Seriously? $300 plus? Dang! G/N has a 1-2 day turnaround. Add 2-3 days each way for normal shipping, you'd have had a week in it.

 

[mustangmutt]

Do the rebuild yourself. The insides of those things are fascinating. Just keep track of how it comes apart and keep it real clean. I also recommend replacing the hoses.

 

[palerider94]

Thanks Choco. I can see how people can overlook roll pin. Thaks on heads up. Also I agree on rebuild kit - the autozone parts list looked a little lacking. Ended up buying from http://www.stangerssite.com/CVrebuilding.html (thanks robzz28). They had the most complete kit.

Apprecaite everyone response. I figure if I screw up the rbuild I can also get the full unit from O'Rielleys

 

[robbz28]

Seriously? $300 plus? Dang! G/N has a 1-2 day turnaround. Add 2-3 days each way for normal shipping, you'd have had a week in it.

A week is 5 days too long, every job I do takes 2 days (or at least be able to drive when those 2 days are done) I yanked my engine, tranny, rear in one morning, cleaned, sanded, painted the underhood area, freshened up the engine with new head gaskets, valve seals, etc and stuck it all back in in 2 days....i hate not having my own shop.

 

[robbz28]

Seriously? $300 plus? Dang! G/N has a 1-2 day turnaround. Add 2-3 days each way for normal shipping, you'd have had a week in it.

Alright, my bad, its been over a year, i found my reciept....it was 170 for the control valve, and the others I have have been 200 plus, i get cross eyed at times.

 

[palerider94]

Got the old one off - using a lot of the tips I got here. Only issue is that the ford repair manual says that the distance from centerlink and greas fitting is 4 1/2 for mustang and 5 5/8 for montegos and mavericks. Mine was 5 5/8. Who knows somebody may have swapped it out over the last 40 years. I had troubles getting OEM hoses to fit a couple years ago when I changes them. that may explain it. I order a rebuild kit from stangerssite - wondering if I will have any issues. I'll email but does anyone have any insights?

 

[2+2GT]

A week is 5 days too long, every job I do takes 2 days (or at least be able to drive when those 2 days are done) I yanked my engine, tranny, rear in one morning, cleaned, sanded, painted the underhood area, freshened up the engine with new head gaskets, valve seals, etc and stuck it all back in in 2 days....i hate not having my own shop.

OK, that was for rebuild of your own unit. If you want to do it on an exchange basis, you simply have them ship you a ready-to-install unit, and then you send them yours as a core. That way, you can install it whenever you want.

 

[robbz28]

OK, that was for rebuild of your own unit. If you want to do it on an exchange basis, you simply have them ship you a ready-to-install unit, and then you send them yours as a core. That way, you can install it whenever you want.

Well at the time I didnt know who Glazier Nolan was.....o-o-o-oreilley was right down the rd....but I'll check em out next time I need something, I have seen that name on some other posts in here, they must know their stuff.

 

[palerider94]

Just rebuilt mine. No Leaks. http://www.stangerssite.com/CVrebuilding.html is class act - highly recommend.

 

[robbz28]

Good to know, did you rebuild it yourself and refer to him for advice or did you send it off to him for a rebuild?