How much power do you think I could make...

[DrScientist]

Some real good material in this thread. Yeah I have been trying to develop a plan, but it seems to be centering around making some affordable power for a few years. Then when I've been working (at a real job lol) for a while and can afford it, I'd like to build a newer better motor from the ground up. But I need something to entertain myself with during the meantime, which also lends credence to the "affordable" performance idea.

But now you guys got me interested in the midpipe. I'm afraid I know very little about them. I am pretty sure I can afford some long tube headers for the car somewhere in the immediate future, so I'm sure I'll need to new midpipe to reflect that. And I've heard that long tube headers are a good way to free up some HP without hurting the gas mileage. Makes sense. But how big around does the new midpipe need to be? I think the stock pipe size is only something like 2.5 inches.... right? So what size midpipe do I need to be looking for? And does the midpipe need to be special to fit the longtube headers?

 

[revhead347]

Wait till you get longtubes. Longtubes are awesome for performance, and yes, you need a specific midpipe for them. Unless you are really good with exhaust tubing, then you can cut down a shorty intermediary into a longtube intermediary. I've done this a few times to make a temporary emissions pipe. The stock intermediary has restrictive catalytic converters on it. It is 2.25" pipe. The aftermarket ones are all 2.5" pipe, which is more than enough for almost all setups. You have to have a pretty serious setup to require 3" pipe. If you do gears and longtubes, it really wakes the car up.

Kurt

 

[Black Stampede]

Agreed. In fact try and find some used long tubes as well. People change exhaust like they change their socks so it shouldn't be hard to find some cheap components that people want to unload when they get their new setups. My old setup was around $800 new and I think I sold it all for around half of that when I did my turbo setup.

 

[lehavre]

In college I'd be just happy with a car that runs at all (a Mustang GT no less!). Why not save the money and then get a newer GT that's already pushing that many HP off the lot?

 

[revhead347]

I had a 12 second car when I was in college, nothing wrong with that.

Kurt

 

[DrScientist]

In college I'd be just happy with a car that runs at all (a Mustang GT no less!). Why not save the money and then get a newer GT that's already pushing that many HP off the lot?

Well money's kinda tight but its not that dang tight. And I do intend to go get a new GT some day. Or cobra. But I'll always love and keep my sn95, so I just as well dress it up. I also intend to own a nice foxbody someday. I'm a bit of a mustang collector wannabe.

Wait till you get longtubes. Longtubes are awesome for performance, and yes, you need a specific midpipe for them. Unless you are really good with exhaust tubing, then you can cut down a shorty intermediary into a longtube intermediary. I've done this a few times to make a temporary emissions pipe. The stock intermediary has restrictive catalytic converters on it. It is 2.25" pipe. The aftermarket ones are all 2.5" pipe, which is more than enough for almost all setups. You have to have a pretty serious setup to require 3" pipe. If you do gears and longtubes, it really wakes the car up.

Kurt

So is this Xpipe something that can be bolted on, and then taken back off at will without having to weld anything? Like could you just unbolt the stock midpipe that has the cats, and then just bolt on the Xpipe and be done with it? I have to admit that I've never really crawled down under the car and went looking for the answer.

 

[preacherman]

Well money's kinda tight but its not that dang tight. And I do intend to go get a new GT some day. Or cobra. But I'll always love and keep my sn95, so I just as well dress it up. I also intend to own a nice foxbody someday. I'm a bit of a mustang collector wannabe.



So is this Xpipe something that can be bolted on, and then taken back off at will without having to weld anything? Like could you just unbolt the stock midpipe that has the cats, and then just bolt on the Xpipe and be done with it? I have to admit that I've never really crawled down under the car and went looking for the answer.

where are you located at? I have a complete exhaust set up, headers and all, off of a 94 gt that i would let go for $450 if you pick it up! It is shorty headers (which some dislike...i like them because they bolt up the same as stock headers so you can swap in your catted h-pipe for inspection purposes), mid pipe (prochamber), flowmasters, and tips all with factory style hangers.

 

[preacherman]

just happened to think...i have a tfs stage one cam, roller rockers, typhoon intake and a pro 5.0 shifter for the same car...hit me up, you need power parts...i need cash!

 

[revhead347]

So is this Xpipe something that can be bolted on, and then taken back off at will without having to weld anything? Like could you just unbolt the stock midpipe that has the cats, and then just bolt on the Xpipe and be done with it? I have to admit that I've never really crawled down under the car and went looking for the answer.

Oh yeah, I've been doing it for years. In fact, there was a time when I had to rent catalytic converters. The midpipes are all bolt on, no welding required. It's much easier with longtube headers. It only takes about 10 minutes to swap cats on with the longtubes, because the joints are under the car, instead of up beside the engine.

Kurt

 

[DrScientist]

where are you located at? I have a complete exhaust set up, headers and all, off of a 94 gt that i would let go for $450 if you pick it up! It is shorty headers (which some dislike...i like them because they bolt up the same as stock headers so you can swap in your catted h-pipe for inspection purposes), mid pipe (prochamber), flowmasters, and tips all with factory style hangers.

I am located near the dallas/fort worth metroplex. Where are you located?

 

[preacherman]

i'm in n.c. oh...well that won't work then. I guess i could ship the stuff to ya if u wanted any of it but the freight would be crazy. I was hoping you were closer.

 

[ProKiller]

ROAD TRIP!!

 

[Black Stampede]

ROAD TRIP!!

Not for shortys and flowmasters

 

[preacherman]

Not for shortys and flowmasters

o.k..well since i'm new to the scene, perhaps you could tell me what that set up is worth..i wanna b fair. Mac ceramic, equal length shortys go for $265 and up new...these are almost new i'd say, plus they are modified to work with e7 heads or gt40p's. Flowmaster 50 series go for $90 and up each...these are nearly new. Mac pro chamber goes for $270 new...lets see, that puts us just over $700 and we have'nt discussed the tail pipes yet..but hey, you did help me realize something....i should just keep it for my next car...i could save over $300 bucks verses selling what i have and then just replacing it later...thanks man! Seriously, i mean it!

 

[Black Stampede]

o.k..well since i'm new to the scene, perhaps you could tell me what that set up is worth..i wanna b fair. Mac ceramic, equal length shortys go for $265 and up new...these are almost new i'd say, plus they are modified to work with e7 heads or gt40p's. Flowmaster 50 series go for $90 and up each...these are nearly new. Mac pro chamber goes for $270 new...lets see, that puts us just over $700 and we have'nt discussed the tail pipes yet..but hey, you did help me realize something....i should just keep it for my next car...i could save over $300 bucks verses selling what i have and then just replacing it later...thanks man! Seriously, i mean it!

Haha I was just playing around, but you are welcome I guess!

 

[dstang01]

I'm also in college, after much contemplation on mod choices here's what I went with (in order):

-Flowmasters
-Used Offroad H pipe from craigslist for $60
-3.73 gears
-BBK cai
-Remanufactured gt40P heads from ebay for $400
-MAC Shorty P headers
-Tubular GT40 intake
-Subframe connectors

Haven't yet installed the heads and intake, but now that exams are done it will be a spring project. I'm in the same situation, looking for some more power on a reasonable budget and a well-rounded car. I went with a tubular GT40 intake and polished it because I like the look, but an explorer intake fits the bill for cheap. The P heads are Ford's final revision of the small block cylinder heads and are designed for a more efficient burn, so you'll likely see better fuel economy along with the power increase. Remanufatured ebay heads are great because they're virtually new, so you're getting peace of mind over junkyard pulloffs or used aluminums. With my bolt-ons and heads/intake with some degreeing to my stock cam, I'm aiming for 300 at the flywheel.

An aluminum-headed H/C/I is the way to go for real power, but it's significantly more costly and with a cam you'll need some form of tuning and you'll take a hit in fuel economy. The stock cam isn't a bad piece, it's the heads, intake and exhaust that are the biggest bottlenecks. Forced induction on a stock motor, especially if it's your only vehicle on the road, makes me a little uneasy, and again tuning is a necessity (IMO, but plenty of folks run without problems). GT40P/explorer intake/bolt-ons makes a nice reliable budget combo with room to grow when you graduate and have more time and money.

 

[DrScientist]

I think I'm probly going to hold off on the gears for now. Until I can afford a 6 speed with double overdrive anyway.

 

[DrScientist]

I would start with gears first. As far as the intake needed the heads and cam, no you can just install the intake by itself. After the gears, if your goal is around 300ish a mild shot of NOS is probably the cheapest route, and the car maintains its original MPG. Just remember that car has hypers, so don't overdue the shot or boost. I recommend a K&N filter, adds horsepower and MPGs.

How can you tell exactly what gears your car has in the rear end? Isn't there supposed to be like a sticker in the doorjamb or in the glovebox or something?

 

[revhead347]

I think I'm probly going to hold off on the gears for now. Until I can afford a 6 speed with double overdrive anyway.

That 6 speed is mega money. Everyone wants one, but in the end it's never cost efficient. A T-56 swap with double overdrive ends up costing $4Gs in the end no matter how you cut it. If you want to modify the T-56 to take advantage of it's strength potential, it's even more than that.

Kurt