Window motor bushings (Pics)

How much are the bushings at auto zone? I thought it was my motors because they work with my help to go up and down but after reading this I guess I will try this thread and save some money which is always a good thing. Thanks for the write up.
 
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Since I wrote the pictorial, I've repeated this experiment a couple times. One of the motors I've tore open had a couple hex nuts replacing two of the plugs. I don't recall the exact size, they were a little loose in there but they worked. I'd still recommend replacing them with the proper plugs. You can get them for peanuts at autozone.
 
Hello all, I just signed up but I've been a fan of stangnet for a long time.

I was having these tell-tale window motor problems so I removed the motor and replaced the bushings. But when I plugged the motor back up to make sure it works before putting the door panel back together, it didnt do anything at all. It just seems like its dead now. It worked before I took it apart, (if I helped it up with my hand.) I'm thinking the electrical connection may have been damaged when I took it apart.
Please help if you can
 
Welcome to the forums!

If all the electrical connectors seem to be seated firmly in their respective plugs, and none of the connections/wires are visibly worn, I suppose it could be possible that you accidentally shorted something during removal/install which could have blown a fuse. :shrug: You might want to check if the respective fuse is still good.

Also, if the master switch on the passenger side has one of those window-lock buttons on it, make sure that isn't engaged. :rolleyes: If neither of these tests yields a solution, you may want to begin checking if the motor is receiving proper voltage; this can be done with a multimeter. Here is the full checklist from The Haynes' manual:

Power window system - description and check
  • 1 The power window system operates electric motors, mounted in
    the doors, which lower and raise the windows. The system consists of
    the conlrol switches, the motors, regulators, glass mechanisms and
    associated wiring.
  • 2 The power windows can be lowered and raised from the master
    control switch by the driver or by remote switches located at the individual
    windows. Each window has a separate molor which is
    reversible. The position of the control switch determines the polarity
    and therefore the direction of operation.
  • 3 The circuit is protected by a fuse and a circuit breaker. Each
    motor is also equipped with an internal circuit breaker, this prevents
    one stuck window from disabling the whole system.
  • 4 The power window system will only operate when the Ignition
    switch is ON. In addition, many models have a window lockout switch
    at the master control switch which, when activated, disables the
    switches at the rear windows and, sometimes, the switch at the passenger's
    window also. Always check these items before troubleshooting a window problem.
  • 5 These procedures are general In nature, so if you can't find the
    problem using them, take Ihe vehicle to a dealer service department or
    other properly equipped repair facility.
  • 6 If the power windows won't operate, always check the fuse and
    circuit breaker first.
  • 7 If only the rear windows are inoperative, or if the windows only
    operate from the master control switch, check the rear window lockout
    switch for continuity in the unlocked position. Replace it if it doesn't
    have continuity.
  • 8 Check the wiring between the switches and fuse panel for continuity.
    Repair the wiring, if necessary.
  • 9 If only one window is inoperative from the master control switch,
    try the other control switch at the window. Note: This doesn't apply to
    the drivers door window.
  • 10 If the same window works from one switch, but not the other,
    check the switch for continuity.
  • 11 If the switch tests OK, check for a short or open in the circuit
    between the affected switch and the window motor.
  • 12 If one window is inoperative from both switches, remove the trim
    panel from the affected door and check for voltage at the switch (see
    illustration) and at the motor while the switch Is operated.
  • 13 If voltage is reaching the motor. disconnect the glass from the
    regulator. Move the window up and down by hand while checking for binding and damage. Also check for binding and damage to the regulator. If the regulator is not damaged and the window moves up and down smoothly, replace the motor. If there's binding or damage, lubricate, repair or replace parts, as necessary.
  • 14 If voltage isn't reaching the motor, check the wiring in the circuit
    for continuity between the switches and motors. You'll need to consult
    the wiring diagram for the vehicle. If the circuit is equipped with a relay,
    check that the relay is grounded property and receiving voltage.
  • 15 Test the windows after you are done to confirm proper repairs.
 

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Thanks will_95gt, sorry for the late response, I had finals this week. And thinks for the write-up and pictorial, they made taking the motor out really easy.

As for my problem, its the driver side motor, so theres no window lock. I checked the fuse, its actually a circuit breaker and it powers both the passenger and drivers side windows. I rebuilt the passenger side too; plugged it back up and it worked fine. I even plugged the drivers side motor up to the passenger side and it worked there. so I'm thinking that my problem is either with the plug for the motor on the drivers side, or with the drivers side switch. the passenger side motor works from the switches on both sides of the car, so the problem may be with just the drivers side switch. its weird though, b/c the window worked before I took it apart, just not well b/c the bushings were bad. it seems strange that the switch would go out now.

I have a voltmeter, but I'm not really sure how to proceed with testing the electrical connections, any ideas?
 
Driver's side window motor

FordManSVT94 - I have the exact same problem. Window motor ran fine before I changed the bushings but when I re-installed everything the motor wouldn't work on the driver's side. Taking your advice, I tested the drivers side motor to the passenger side switches and it worked fine. I know that the motor works but now I am stumped . . .any suggestions ? Did you end up getting a solution ? Wierd, motor works, just not on the drivers side. All other windows work fine.
 
I am not recommending this, but when mine crap out, I just drop 5/16 hex nuts in where the bushings go. They never give out.

Be warned though, Ford puts plastic bushings in so that they will crumble if you get a body part or object between the glass and door frame. Not that you could get hurt, but I think it is a 'kid safety' thing.
I did what you did as well but not sure which nuts I used. It worked fine for a good while but over past 3 months or so there has been a few times the window stopped when going down or up and i took the skin off, hit on the motor and still didnt move. I loosened up on the 3 bolts , one by one and tried it and it finally started working. It did it the other day also so i'm trying to diagnose rathher it matters in what size you questioned as to the 2 nuts? Might only be one that will fit so maybe I have the correct one. Just wondering whats gooing on since the nuts obviously arent crumbling