Car is STILL a slug...

all the IAC does is control your idle speed. It simply bleeds air past the throttle blade. It being bad would cause idle surge or stalling when you come to a stop due to it not being able to stabilize your idle before it the motor dies.

It would not have any effect other than erratic or surging idle if it was bad.

Yeah, the IAC was bad, I already replaced it, and the dying at idle stopped.
It now idles, but idles with a serious lope, like a cam.
I can't find a dead cylinder(s), but that's how it acts.

It's definatly better, but still very rough.
I'm going to go back to the timing when I catch up with the car. (teen driver)
 
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Check the O2 sensor

If either of them is dead - your stang will run like a gutless pig on a saturday night! With that said I've got a shift kit in mine with 3:73 and while its not kick you in the pants fast it will get up and go out of the hole and yes its a vert! Good luck! I feel your pain!
 
When you clean the MAF you need to physically clean it with a Q-tip and brake/electrical cleaner to really make it effective. Just spraying it doesnt have enough ooompphhh to get all the crap off. I ***** you not it turned my car from a total turd that would just bog out if you tried to dump the clutch and burn out into a serious tire shredder. Just humor me and try it.
 
I bought a new MAF.
I adjusted the idle.

The car is running much better now.
The idle is still slightly rough, but it is running well everywhere else.
As strong as it has in the past.

I pulled each injector wire to see if I could isolate the rough spot, and all injectors caused it to run worse but #1 injector. So, we pulled that injector and swapped in others, but it had no affect. It seems that #1 injector has an intermittent 'miss'... It smooths out as the rpm goes up, so it works at times. Also, I noticed that the car smooths out some when I pull the vacuum line from the pressure regulator. It doesn't totally smooth out, but it does help.

So the problem is in #1 cylinder, and fuel related. Spark is strong, and vacuum gage is steady as a rock.
 
Bad injector wire?

I had a similar problem on our 98 Expedition and it was the ground side of the injector on #1 cylinder; intermittent problem took forever to locate. You can use a test light to see the pulses and wiggle the wire looking for a possible open circuit.
 
I think i figured this out... If the car acts like a slug... buy it a snail. :D
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Our cars have very similar mods. 95 Vert, AODE, Cobra intake, Cold air, full exhaust... Mine also had very similar issues idle, timing, etc. I was able to do all the basic stuff, but it was still not running right... What really helped was a chip / tune. I am now a believer. Some will say you don't really need a tune with just an intake, but I will praise the abilities of a good tune forever now...

Pre-tune dyno, it was putting down 177rwhp, post-tune it laid down 204rwhp (I know it's not much, but +27 rwhp was very noticeable for me). When the tune was over it was like night and day. The idle issues were fixed (still a slight hang, but 80% better), the car isn't running rich, my tuner modified the shifting, and I couldn't be happier. The car is way more snappy, feels overall better across the rpm range, no more popping, shifts are very crisp, and I just can't say enough about the tune. Like I said, I am now a believer. Worth every penny!!!

Should you decide to tune, find a tuner in your area that has dealt with sn95 5.0's though... they are a different animal than fox 5.0's and it took me awhile to find the right guy, but I am glad I waited.

The grin on my face driving home post-tune was priceless... Next up for me is fuel pump and finish my nitrous install and re-tune!

Good luck!
 
My other son has an old Fox body Fairmont...
We stuck a 5.0 HO/AOD in that, with GT40 intake and MAC exhaust...
I wish the SN95 was as easy to tune as that one!
I just finished putting a Stang 8.8" and 4.10 gears in the Fairmont.
He is convinced he will pull the wheels, and until I saw this pic from yesterday, I was skeptical. :D
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