I have a set of really nice valve covers that the alternator will not clear.
What have you done to elevate that?
Pics and measurements would be very helpful.
What have you done to elevate that?
Pics and measurements would be very helpful.
There is someone on here, I swear it was Guero, who cut the stock alternator bracket and turned it 90 degrees so that the alternator was down near the headers.
I cut my alternator bracket but I bolted it back on the same way and reused the tensioner pulley.
What was the purpose of this?
I have a set of really nice valve covers that the alternator will not clear.
What have you done to elevate that?
Pics and measurements would be very helpful.
Hello Stinkin, I resolved this issue in about 30minutes about 4 days ago when I used Canton tall valve forged aluminum VC's. It is a sure fire way. So follow my lead.
If you want proof,pic -> http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/840173-sometimes-u-jus-hav-2-do-urself-351w-build.html
(After bolting the alternator to the bracket using only the bottom bolt) You will notice that when you "swing" the alternator over on the bracket the electrical connector is probably what is hitting your VC's.
Step 1: set your alternator on the ground, pulley side down
Step 2: unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the alternator together
Step 3: Remove the back piece of the alternator (carefully) pulling straight up
Step 4: Now pull directly up on the "inside part" of the alternator (until it is out of the casing) and rotate it counter clockwise 2 bolt holes then drop it back in very carefully
Step 5: Put the back part back on ( it will only line up with the inside part)
Step 6: bolt the alternator back together
Step 7: bolt it back up to the alternator bracket (only the bottom bolt again)
Step 8: you will now notice that the electrical connector is the farthest possible distance away from the valve covers (good thing) as you swing back the alternator, you will see a "chunk of metal" on the back of the alternator now hitting your vc's, take note
Step 9: take off alternator, repeat steps 1-3
Step 10: with the backside of the alternator off, grind off the excess metal, and use some paint to prevent rust
Step 11: Repeat steps 5-7
Step 12: You will now need to make a custom "alternator to fusebox" cable now that the electrical connector is farther away from where is was previously (or maybe you dont, i swapped to a 351 so my clearences might be different), I chose to make mine 63in long, and run it down along the lower part of the wiring harness as to "clean up" stupid ford wiring, looks cleaner
PM if you gots some ?'s