I have a set of really nice valve covers that the alternator will not clear.
What have you done to elevate that?
Pics and measurements would be very helpful.
What have you done to elevate that?
Pics and measurements would be very helpful.
SN95 Alternator Bracket
- Thread starter StinkinLincoln
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There isn't a whole lot you can do. Usually it hits the alternator itself. Or you can grind the valve covers.
Kurt
Kurt
I have a set of stamped steel edelbrocks that clear, but i cant vent the crankcase pressure with them. These valve covers are not getting touched.
Im working with the owner of a company to get a bracket developed, so we cant stop having so much trouble with these front accessories.
Im working with the owner of a company to get a bracket developed, so we cant stop having so much trouble with these front accessories.
The aftermarket brackets are outrageously expensive, and don't work nearly as well as the factory ones. There is someone on here, I swear it was Guero, who cut the stock alternator bracket and turned it 90 degrees so that the alternator was down near the headers. This of course only works if you don't have a smog pump. I tried to do a search, but no pictures came up to confirm I have the right stangnet user. Either he has removed the pics from his hosting website, or this crap hotel internet is blocking it.
Kurt
Kurt
I spaced the bracket out back when I had that issue. I had to space everything else also so it was equal and to keep belt align in check but I didnt have full accs so it wasn't to bad.
I later went to the March setup and the stock bracket is gone.
I later went to the March setup and the stock bracket is gone.
I cut my alternator bracket but I bolted it back on the same way and reused the tensioner pulley.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
I cut my alternator bracket but I bolted it back on the same way and reused the tensioner pulley.
What was the purpose of this?
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
Oh. My smog pump is gone, I should have cut the bracket before I had it powder coated! lol
I used a set of stock cast fox valve covers once and ended up grinding the valve cover where the one alternator bolt would touch. It was pretty simple and you could never see it with the alternator installed.
I used a set of stock cast fox valve covers once and ended up grinding the valve cover where the one alternator bolt would touch. It was pretty simple and you could never see it with the alternator installed.
99FiveOh
10 Year Member
I wouldn't give a crap what valve covers I had so long as there's an S trim strapped to the motor!
thegreentaco
Member
Hello Stinkin, I resolved this issue in about 30minutes about 4 days ago when I used Canton tall valve forged aluminum VC's. It is a sure fire way. So follow my lead.
If you want proof,pic -> http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/840173-sometimes-u-jus-hav-2-do-urself-351w-build.html
(After bolting the alternator to the bracket using only the bottom bolt) You will notice that when you "swing" the alternator over on the bracket the electrical connector is probably what is hitting your VC's.
Step 1: set your alternator on the ground, pulley side down
Step 2: unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the alternator together
Step 3: Remove the back piece of the alternator (carefully) pulling straight up
Step 4: Now pull directly up on the "inside part" of the alternator (until it is out of the casing) and rotate it counter clockwise 2 bolt holes then drop it back in very carefully
Step 5: Put the back part back on ( it will only line up with the inside part)
Step 6: bolt the alternator back together
Step 7: bolt it back up to the alternator bracket (only the bottom bolt again)
Step 8: you will now notice that the electrical connector is the farthest possible distance away from the valve covers (good thing) as you swing back the alternator, you will see a "chunk of metal" on the back of the alternator now hitting your vc's, take note
Step 9: take off alternator, repeat steps 1-3
Step 10: with the backside of the alternator off, grind off the excess metal, and use some paint to prevent rust
Step 11: Repeat steps 5-7
Step 12: You will now need to make a custom "alternator to fusebox" cable now that the electrical connector is farther away from where is was previously (or maybe you dont, i swapped to a 351 so my clearences might be different), I chose to make mine 63in long, and run it down along the lower part of the wiring harness as to "clean up" stupid ford wiring, looks cleaner
PM if you gots some ?'s
Here's the direct link to the post:
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...s-hav-2-do-urself-351w-build.html#post8458996
Brilliant, I would not have thought to disassemble the alternator to solve the issue. The bolt holes that mount the alternator to the bracket are only on the front part of the alternator, and the part that interferes with the valve cover is on the back part. A simple solution, once you know how. Great find!
Mine was not going to clear, period. No way around it. The valve covers just protruded out too far. Im working on a fix.
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