1969 mustang, no power at the key

Jake69

New Member
May 26, 2011
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Paradise, CA
I have a 1969 mustang 302 with a full MSD electronic ignition. It all began when I started to wire in a tach. I cut no wires, spliced no wires, merely attached a few here and there. I didn't have time to finish the job, so I decided to undo it and start from scratch later on when I was sure I'd have time to do it right. I returned everything back to normal, turned the key, and it didn't start. At this point however, it DID have power to the key, it turned over when I turned the key, and never started.

At this point, I replaced the solenoid. It no longer turns over at the key, I have zero power to anything inside the car. I bridged the solenoid on the two positives, the car turned over just like before, but once again, no start. I checked the coil, no spark there.

At this point, I was told to replace my ignition switch by my local AutoZone. I did, no power at the key. It still turns over when I bridge the gap on the solenoid, but no start, no spark at the coil. The coil isn't the issue, because I've tried multiple coils, still no difference.

What it ISN'T:
Solenoid ground
Coil ground
Solenoid
Ignition Switch
Battery
Ignition coil

Next step is to look at the starter. I'd like to know what I should look out for specifically when I get underneath my car and begin to inspect the starter. Any information helps!
 
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It is not your starter. If it turns over, then there is nothing wrong with it. Sounds like you know your problem, no power at the key. Run a jumper wire from your battery to your key switch. You're not going to get spark at your coil unless you have a powered wire from your key switch to your coil.

If you run a jumper wire to your coil, and jump the starter solenoid, she should fire right up....
 
I am haveing very similar problem with my '66. This car was a garage find that last ran in 1970 after motor jumped the timing chain and was gargared for nearly 35 years.

I have a freshly rebuilt motor that was properly run-in. I have installed it in the vehicle with manual trans, Ford distributor, stock coil, stock starter/solenoid, and Pertronix Ignitor I pointless ignition. Harness and dash components are stock and have been cleaned and reassembled with new bezel, lenses, etc. The starter will NOT turn with the #16 (red with green stripe on FOMOCO 1966 wiring diagram) ignition wire attached to the "+" terminal of the coil. The stock Alternator Regulator simply clicks. When I remove the coil wire, the starter will turn the motor, but no-spark of course. From this , I know the starter and solenoid are operable.

I can start the engine from the ignition swithch with a hot wire from the battery to the "+" terminal on the coil. This overrides wire #16 from the ignition switch to the coil. I cannot turn off the engine with the ignition switch (only by pulling a wire or choking it). Again, this confirms that the motor runs, starter works, and all other elements of the high voltage inition circuit works.

The problem seems to be isolated to the ignition switch, the Pink resistor ignition wire #16A, an incorrect wiring connection in the dash components, or some other grounding problem or short in the circuit.

Let me know how you resolved yoru 1969 problem or does anyone have any thoughts or solutions on this problem description?
 
I still haven't figured out the problem with mine. The grounds are perfectly fine, it'll turn over when I bridge the solenoid, but I still don't have spark to the ignition coil. Everything is wired correctly, to my knowledge. Everything leads me to believe the car SHOULD start. I'm still having the same problem though, no power at the key, no spark at the ignition coil. I'd like to not have to run a jumper wire, because I didn't need one before. There is a problem, I just can't find it. If anyone could give me a list of reasons why I wouldn't have spark at the coil, or why I wouldn't have power to the key, I would greatly appreciate it.
 
I agree that you shouldn't have to run a jumper wire. But it is nice to know that it will start when you do.

But if you don't have power at your key, follow that wire back to its power source.

You do not have spark because your coil thinks your key is off. If you run a long jumper wire to your +12V constant on your key, i'm positive everything would work.

You're just going to have to find the problem that lies between the battery and the ignition switch. I wish I could be there to help, but it would be a bit of a drive from northern iowa....