Simple Engine Mods for 01 GT Vert

[joshjwc9]

Yes, definitely figure out what you want to do with the car. If you dream is to supercharge it, don't go with 4.10's do 3.73's or 3.90's. If you just want to keep it a DD and don't do highway driving at all go with 4.10's.

Exhaust is just subjective to what sound you like. I've had 4 different on my car. Stock, Flowmasters, SLP Powerflo and Magnapacks. Each has their own sound paired with a ORX. I loved the Powerflo until they passed away in a manhole accident and I picked up Magnapacks, if you like the straight through sound, Magnapacks are amazing!

Definitely get FLSFC's. Stiffen the car up alot and improves handling. Depending where you drive lowering springs and shocks definitely help the ride and look of your car. Eibach sells one for those who don't want a too rough ride and others like Steeda and H&R really give you the slammed look. Shock wise there are several choices. KYB is good for a cheap OEM replacement that can handle lowering spring increased rates, then Bilstein, Koni and Tokico sell more performance ones with several being adjustable. Definitely go with MM CC plates if you install lowering springs to keep your alignment in spec.

From there, engine and power mods are depending on what you want to do. If I did it all over again I'd focus on exhaust, suspension, supercharger, then wheels/tires. But, taking my car from bone stock to 380rwhp/378ftlbs with the Vortech it was fun gauging each modification after every mod.

Just remember it's your car and enjoy it. Don't let the critics get to you, they probably drive something slower..

 

[trinity_gt]

Thanks for the info, would you say this is something that needs to be investigated, or that since it's had this mod for a while that it's probably ok? Like I said, I'd never do it myself, first and foremost because it's a lot of money for minute gains that don't build or help other mods. I've put 25k miles on the car since I got it and it still runs very well. (has 94k total)

The issue of oil pump failures due to aftermarket dampers in rare but it occurs often enough to have been documented online as well as in print (e.g. Sean Hyland's 4.6 book.) Honestly, I expect the vast majority of UD pulley owners to never have an obvious issue with them or the pump.

I wouldn't do anything other than piggybacks (which preserve the factory damper) or Steedas and given the minimal gains, it just doesn't seem like a mod that's worth it.

If they're already on the car, I'd leave them. If you have the stock pulleys, think about putting them back on the next time the front of the engine is off (e.g. to install cams or to service the chains or guides or something...)

 

[BooWFO]

Gears- first and foremost. 4.10's in a daily is no issue, still knocked down 20+mpg on the highway crusing at 80.
Since you're an auto go for a tuner early on even a can tune/mail order will help with the shifting and correct speedo.
Since you want the muscle car sound. Exhaust. I ran X,H, and prochamber, for a muscle car sound the prochamber was the best IMO. As for cat back you're not going to see any real gains, so pick the one yo like the sound of.
Plenum's/tb/cai... yeah if you wanna throw money at it. K&n in stock box with silencer removed, PLus removed headlight for track use works just fine.
You want to keep buy in cost down Nitrous kit. Otherwise go blower.

 

[fiveoho]

here's a interesting magazine article from "5.0" in july of '07

"nice and easy"


stock 03 5 speed gt : 213/242


+cherry bomb catback (stock midpipe) : 217/251

+accufab 75mm tb+plenum : 233/259

+jlt ram air intake : 237/262

+march pulleys : 242/267

+diablosport : 243/271


i have done all of these mods to my 00 with different flavors of brand names. it DOES make a difference, on paper and in the seat of your pants. its no track warrior by any means but throttle response and overall power did change for the good! if you shop around, you won't break the bank and still get about the same results as listed above.

 

[MustangNovice]

Hey TrickyGT,

Your Mustang looks like its silver, which is the color of mine and I was curious what rims you have on yours, ie color and style. They look like chrome bullits, are they 18s?

Thanks,

MustangNovice

 

[MustangNovice]

Josh,

Thanks for the reply. I have a couple questions that I hope you can help clear up. What are "FLSFC's"? The type of driving I will do is a mixture of general road/highway driving, so do you not recommend 4:10 gears? Does muffle make a different to the car's performance outside of sound? Do you recommend changing suspension/shocks given that the car is 10 years old (even though it only has 30k miles)? Is installing a supercharger a big/expensive project?

Thanks,

MustangNovice

 

[joshjwc9]

Josh,

Thanks for the reply. I have a couple questions that I hope you can help clear up. What are "FLSFC's"? The type of driving I will do is a mixture of general road/highway driving, so do you not recommend 4:10 gears? Does muffle make a different to the car's performance outside of sound? Do you recommend changing suspension/shocks given that the car is 10 years old (even though it only has 30k miles)? Is installing a supercharger a big/expensive project?

Thanks,

MustangNovice

FLSFC's=Full Length Subframe Connectors. They would need to be welded in, most speed shops can do this in about an hour.

Maximum Motorsports Mustang Full Length Subframe Connectors (79-04) - Bare Steel at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!

With an Automatic, 4.10's are probably the perfect gear. It will give you a better feeling under acceleration, help MPG's slightly in city driving, but slightly hurt them on long highway trips.

Mufflers do almost nothing in regards to power. I would purchase whatever sounds good to you. If you have emissions testing by you, you probably shouldn't change out the midpipe. But if you don't, you can install an Off Road midpipe without cats to increase hp (with an xpipe) or torque (with an Hpipe).

You do not technically have to change the shocks out, although having the weight of the car on them for a long time without driving it will wear them out too. But if roads in your area are not great, getting KYB's and a budget lowering spring like a Ford Racing will give you better handling without slamming the car and causing it to scrape or bottom out.

Installing a supercharger isn't super difficult. If you can change a clutch in any car you can install a supercharger. But, there are steps where letting a professional handle it made me feel better, i.e. tapping the oil pan for my Vortech. It wasn't expensive if you take your time and piece together the parts like I did. Buying a used tuner kit then piecing the fuel components can save you money, then having a quality installer install and tune it, It wouldn't be much more expensive than buying a set of Headwork/Cams/Exhaust, plus you get dependable power too.

 

[mrvax]

Big thumbs up for things like gears & aluminum drive shaft.
Also very noticeable mod is sub-frame connectors.

 

[03_TrueBlue_GT]

mrvax Big thumbs up for things like gears & aluminum drive shaft.
Also very noticeable mod is sub-frame connectors.

Im glad you brought that up because I was going to ask around here about aluminum drive shafts and what peoples experience and opinions are about them...


Btw this thread is very helpful because I had some questions that Mustang Novice was asking...

 

[davedyno]

Simple Mods all add up

I also have a 01 Gt Vert. Auto. with 90,000 miles
Running all stock I ran about 14.7 in 1/4 Mile.

After adding..
3.73 gears
Flow Cat Back
Dragon Plenum
Dragon 75 MM TB
CAI In the fender ( Tuneable )
SCT Tuner with custom tune by VMP
FAST Wide Band A/F meter

1/4 ET's are running 13.8

Dave