Completely Baffled

AlexGranda

New Member
Jun 16, 2011
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Fellow Mustang owners I have a 1970 Mustang Granda which has a 1978 351W completely rebuilt, new dist (HEI) and wires, New Card all new....I have checked the valves (six times), Checked for TDC and Dist position and everything is good to go. I can not seem t get it to fire up...Any and all suggestions welcome....I am getting fuel....
 
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I do have spark just checked and the compression has not been checked by a gage but it has new rings....Battery is on charger and I will wait until to check it again tommorow...
 
>Firing order?
>Is your distributor rotor hitting the #1 plug wire at TDC between the compression & power stroke or between exhaust & intake stroke? Remember that there are "2" TDC's (2 rotations of the crankshaft) for each full rotation of the distributor. To find the correct TDC for your spark you can turn the crankshaft (by hand) while watching the rocker arms on cylinder #1. The correct TDC should be a little less than 1/2 turn of the crank after the intake valve closes.
HTH,
Gene
 
Fellow Mustang owners I have a 1970 Mustang Granda which has a 1978 351W completely rebuilt, new dist (HEI) and wires, New Card all new....I have checked the valves (six times), Checked for TDC and Dist position and everything is good to go. I can not seem t get it to fire up...Any and all suggestions welcome....I am getting fuel....
I was tempted to say you had the distributor 180° wrong, but even that would backfire. So we're back to no spark. Even with no compression, you get fire.
 
All I agree...I have ensured the Dist is NOT a 180 degrees out...I am sure it is on the compression stroke, the compression blew my finger out...I am going to see if the battery is problem...Question I changed out stock DIST with HEI, would the battery not be strong enough??? I have been working on cars for over 25 yrs and this has got me stumped...I have not worked with performance engines very much but learning a ton....Thanks for all your help so far, I am sure I will get this figured out, hopefully this week...I am headed back to Iraq next week and will have to leave this in my son' hands....thanks again
 
Well, my Dad had a 72 Thunderbird 302 back when it was new, one day it cranked over just fine, but no spark. Turned out the battery had a dead cell, which meant the starter would turn, but the ignition was only getting 10V, which was not enough to fire the ignition system.

I am not a fan of exotic ignition systems.
 
Could be battery voltage...Had the problem before with the standard igintion as well and replaced the battery and I had power then we rebuilt the engine and I am back to the same issue...I do have spark at the plug, Pulle it to check the spark just not sure if it is aquality spark....I will check the battery with a voltage meter....THanks
 
Ok...question about voltage...I have 12.6 volts but once I turn the inginiton the voltage going into the dist drops to 9.2....Should it still be at least 12volts...If so should I exchange to the battery, it is pretty new...
 
Even on the exhaust stroke it will still blow air out of the spark plug hole...just because its easier to go out of there than the valve...any time that piston is going up its pushing air out of somewhere if it can go....I did the same thing and had my dist out 180....just letting u know what happened to me.
 
HEI needs direct current right from the battery
Make sure it gets uninterrupted power with key on
Make sure you don't have it hooked to a wire that goes "off" when the car is cranking like an accessory wire
If you're a multi-brand guy remember Ford firing order is 1234 on the passenger side and 5678 on the driver side

You will be happy with the HEI - they're big, but they run mint!
 
Pretty sure I am at the 180 checked with intake valve in the correct possition and much more air comming out during this stroke....It does have 12v going when it the run postion but during cranking did notice a drop to 9.4 volts....
 
Pretty sure I am at the 180 checked with intake valve in the correct possition and much more air comming out during this stroke....It does have 12v going when it the run postion but during cranking did notice a drop to 9.4 volts....

Hi,

Along with what other's have suggested, if you checked for spark at anyone of the plugs and there was none, then, your circuit connections for the Dizzy are at fault.
Good Luck
 
Something is screwy. You should have 7V to the coil, except when cranking the starter, then you should have 12V. That's the stock setup, of course. Since the car has been converted to GM ignition, anything is possible. Time to check every wire of the ignition system.
 
Something is screwy. You should have 7V to the coil, except when cranking the starter, then you should have 12V. That's the stock setup, of course. Since the car has been converted to GM ignition, anything is possible. Time to check every wire of the ignition system.

check the wiring to the module, and if that is ok then possibly the module is bad. you did mount it on a heat sink and use the dielectric silicon grease didnt you? if not then likely you burned up the module as the gm module hates heat with a passion.
 
If you have the old type distributor in working condition I'd put it back on and try it.

Be safe over in Iraq and hopefully you can get this straightened out before you leave. If not you or your son keep us posted.