Kenne Bell arrives Monday!

TRICKYGT

New Member
Jun 7, 2011
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Rochester, NY
When I get home from work Monday there will be 127lbs of joy sitting in my driveway waiting for install. 5 years of pondering and dreaming will soon be at an end!

Clutch was installed last week and I love the feel of it. Certainly wakes you up in traffic. However I have noticed a slight grind/scrape at low revs, can get quite loud in 4th gear at around 1400 rpm under low load. Only driven around 100 miles on it so far and it has quietened a little. Normal? Part of me is thinking maybe they didnt replace some fluid when transmission was pulled and I am going to change it anyway at the same time I install the blower.

Also... anybody know what best spark plugs will be for my new setup?

Shopping list is....
plugs
oil
coolant
tranny fluid
gapping tool

Any other suggestions welcomed.
 
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The squeeking 'can' be part of the normal wear in. I've done two clutches in the same car where I've been unnerved by squeek that eventually cured itself.

Other possibilities could be that the new clutch has uncovered a weak U-Joint or perhaps the Throw Out Bearing you just installed (although new) is bad off the shelf. Time will tell.

Question(s):

What KB kit did you get? How Much boost? What supporting mods (i.e injectors, MAF, TB, etc.)? Aftercooler kit? Boost-A-Spark? Boost-A-Pump?

Oh... and before pics of your car and engine bay! :D

I'm totally excited for you. I love my KB. Just wish they had an air to air aftercooler for the Windsor.
 
I would go with NGK TR6 4177 for plugs. They are one heat range colder and a lot of people swear by them.

Dont forget distilled water to mix with the coolant. I would also add a bottle of water wetter to split between the two coolant systems.
 
The squeeking 'can' be part of the normal wear in. I've done two clutches in the same car where I've been unnerved by squeek that eventually cured itself.

Other possibilities could be that the new clutch has uncovered a weak U-Joint or perhaps the Throw Out Bearing you just installed (although new) is bad off the shelf. Time will tell.

Question(s):

What KB kit did you get? How Much boost? What supporting mods (i.e injectors, MAF, TB, etc.)? Aftercooler kit? Boost-A-Spark? Boost-A-Pump?

Oh... and before pics of your car and engine bay! :D

I'm totally excited for you. I love my KB. Just wish they had an air to air aftercooler for the Windsor.

Went with FRPP TO bearing and pilot because I heard Spec supplied bearings not so good. Hoping the noise passes however its at 85000 miles and I have never changed tranny juice so its due some Purple.

KB sells the whole kit, went with the 2.1L intercooled running 9 psi. Reusing the FIPK and 70mm Accufab TB.

I am a photo guy as much as a stang guy so there will be pics. Might even take enough to do a write up step by step if I get frisky. Not really enough info on web sometimes. Might help others take the leap.
 
I would go with NGK TR6 4177 for plugs. They are one heat range colder and a lot of people swear by them.

Almost everyone with a blower runs the NGK TR6s gapped at .036. They are copper, so they don't hold heat as well as platinum plugs do (which helps reduce the chance of detonation). And I'm pretty sure they are 2 heat ranges colder, but that's tit for tat. They are what everyone runs, and I've never heard of anyone having problems with them.

You do need to change them about once a year, but that's really not a big deal, and they are cheap (~$15 for a whole set).
 
Almost everyone with a blower runs the NGK TR6s gapped at .036. They are copper, so they don't hold heat as well as platinum plugs do (which helps reduce the chance of detonation). And I'm pretty sure they are 2 heat ranges colder, but that's tit for tat. They are what everyone runs, and I've never heard of anyone having problems with them.

You do need to change them about once a year, but that's really not a big deal, and they are cheap (~$15 for a whole set).

I am listening and thinking that they are the route to take. Anything else I might be needing? Not the greatest mechanic but with passion, enthusiasm and attention to detail I'm sure I'll scrape on through the install.
Problem here is that I get it monday, I am working through thursday and friday I will be road tripping to Virginia for vaca, maybe hit North Carolina, Kentucky etc, so it will be at least 2 weeks before I start even thinking of install. GRRRRR:mad:
 
ive heard bad things about ngk plugs pulling the threads out of the heads? But i dont know, i personally like autolites, i use the platinums because i dont have any huge power adders.. But yea id say go with either autolite or ngk coppers, must be changed about every 10k miles or so
 
ive heard bad things about ngk plugs pulling the threads out of the heads? But i dont know, i personally like autolites, i use the platinums because i dont have any huge power adders.. But yea id say go with either autolite or ngk coppers, must be changed about every 10k miles or so

I would pay $10 a plug if I knew I was getting a great product.

NO STRIPPED THREADS!!!! I would cry for sure.
 
ive heard bad things about ngk plugs pulling the threads out of the heads? But i dont know, i personally like autolites, i use the platinums because i dont have any huge power adders.. But yea id say go with either autolite or ngk coppers, must be changed about every 10k miles or so

I have never heard that about NGK specifically. I can tell you however that most stripped threads are a result of 2 things.

1 is some morons still dont understand that aluminum cylinder heads need anti sieze on the threads of the plugs. Without it there is a slight chance of loosing the threads due to the material forming a bond with the spark plug. This is actually one of those things where too much is not actually a bad thing.

2 is cross threading the plugs. to many people dont start the plug by hand and instead go right to the socket wrench.
 
Also after you get it all up and running you should really consider flushing your engine coolant system. With a KB or any other twin screw you really want the coolant system to be up to par because they still produce a good amount of heat even with the intercooler.

Make sure you have a second set of hands to help you lift the blower into place when the time comes because its is really heavy.

When you install the egr valve lightly thread the fitting on the tube into the valve and then install the two bolts that hold it to the manifold. After that tighten everything up. It goes on so much easier that way.

Consider making a few brackets and or using nuts and bolts to secure the H/E to the crash bar rather then the self tapping screws KB supplies. I know of two people who have had them come off.

If you are going to run a boost guage there are two extra ports on the manifold on the drivers side to tap into but they have 1/8in npt plugs installed. Remove one BEFORE you install the manifold. Again its easier.

I would consider removing the fittings on the resivior and the sealant they use and replacing it with high temp thread sealer from locktite. I would also recommend doing the same on the heater port fitting on the passenger side. Both of those places leaked on my kit.

Thats about all I can think of for now, hope this helps.
 
Also after you get it all up and running you should really consider flushing your engine coolant system. With a KB or any other twin screw you really want the coolant system to be up to par because they still produce a good amount of heat even with the intercooler.

Make sure you have a second set of hands to help you lift the blower into place when the time comes because its is really heavy.

When you install the egr valve lightly thread the fitting on the tube into the valve and then install the two bolts that hold it to the manifold. After that tighten everything up. It goes on so much easier that way.

Consider making a few brackets and or using nuts and bolts to secure the H/E to the crash bar rather then the self tapping screws KB supplies. I know of two people who have had them come off.

If you are going to run a boost guage there are two extra ports on the manifold on the drivers side to tap into but they have 1/8in npt plugs installed. Remove one BEFORE you install the manifold. Again its easier.

I would consider removing the fittings on the resivior and the sealant they use and replacing it with high temp thread sealer from locktite. I would also recommend doing the same on the heater port fitting on the passenger side. Both of those places leaked on my kit.

Thats about all I can think of for now, hope this helps.

:jaw:
What you doing next week?
 
Beer. LOTS of beer.

^ this and lots of patience. You will hit many speed bumps in the install like I did. None of it was kenne bells fault or bad directions or anything just somethings we would screw up and have to take back apart or needing a tool to make the job easier.

Kenne bell can sound arogant about their tunes being top notch but you know i am now a believer in their statements that other dyno operators dont know their systems.

I got a dyno tune and its terrible lol car ran more like stock with the kb tune than it does now. part throttle isnt good at all right now and i cant go back to the kb tune because im running dual cobra pumps now. I also blow fuel rail pressure sensors quite often now and i ran the kb tune for 2 years before getting a dyno tune and never had a single problem of blowing any sensor. I blow at least 1 a month now.

so that should give you an idea that kb tunes are actually very good. :nice:
 
I am listening and thinking that they are the route to take. Anything else I might be needing? Not the greatest mechanic but with passion, enthusiasm and attention to detail I'm sure I'll scrape on through the install.
Problem here is that I get it monday, I am working through thursday and friday I will be road tripping to Virginia for vaca, maybe hit North Carolina, Kentucky etc, so it will be at least 2 weeks before I start even thinking of install. GRRRRR:mad:

where in virginia are you headed to?