Looking to get an intake manifold and came across this typhoon. It says it adds 21.5 rwhp, is that true? Also is it worth the price? $540.00. What would also be the best plenum and throttle body to go with that?
Satin Typhoon Intake Manifold?
- Thread starter duzy
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I hate to break it to ya man but without a power adder (Turbo, SC, Nitrous), you can do all you want to these cars as far as bolt on's and even with cams only get to 325 RWHP or so. Hell I have everything OTHER than cams and my dyno sheet was 270 so that 325 is a bit of a strech. From your posts it seems like you are doing your research which is great, but realistically the only way to reach the #'s you are probably looking for is a power adder. The typhoon intake is really not worth it, you will get it and then 10 min after installing it question where your 450 dollars went. If you are going to get an intake just to change the stock one there are only a few out there and they are pricy (Not to mention they work best with aftermarket heads/cams)
well i want to get trick flow stage 2 cams for it, but I'm just doing my research to see what would be the best intake that will fit. I want to buy all the parts at one time and put it all on and then save up for a procharger or something.
You would get more out of a heads and cam swap then SC vs cam and intake then SC. It will be more $$, but the stock intake can't be improved much more without spending alot of money. I just checked on another aftermarket intake and they said 15 to 25 HP which means it doesn't do ANYTHING at the rear wheels, oh and that was 700 bucks.
All you are doing is putting a heavy peice of metal that soaks up heat on top of your engine with that intake. The PI intake is not restrictive. Going the NA route, I'd look at adding a set of trickflow heads and cams.
I'm assuming you already have headers, since that is a must.
There is really no point in doing the cams without the heads if you are just going to turn right around and do it. Just do it all at once and be done with it. Just know, that going the NA route, you are going to spend just as much money as going FI, and have 100hp less, if you are having somebody do the labor and dyno tune the car.
There is really no point in doing the cams without the heads if you are just going to turn right around and do it. Just do it all at once and be done with it. Just know, that going the NA route, you are going to spend just as much money as going FI, and have 100hp less, if you are having somebody do the labor and dyno tune the car.
The stock heads and cams on the 4.6 2V's just don't flow well enough to warrant an intake like a typhoon. The PI intake is actually a damn good intake and is the best there is when you've got the stock heads/cams.
I've seen a few threads here discussing the disappointing results.....
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=7010350
Another (and this is on a blown 2V)....
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/646400-well-typhoon-huge-bust.html
IICrazy
taken away
On my bone stock car I picked up almost 20hp, I bought it mostly for the reassurance that it would not blow to pieces when I finally added boost.
joshjwc9
Active Member
Also, if you guys read the caption at most websites it says with a camshaft upgrade you see the extra 20hp...i.e.
"This satin finish Typhoon manifold has been chassis dyno proven to produce 21.5 more rear wheel horsepower than the stock factory manifold at 6,500 rpm and more torque from 4,000 rpm on up (with a cam upgrade). """ Straight from American Muscle.
Plus there are other guys with vaccuum leaks right out of the box and bad fitment issues.
If your going to spend your money on an intake spend it on a Edelbrock with the MMR adapter.
"This satin finish Typhoon manifold has been chassis dyno proven to produce 21.5 more rear wheel horsepower than the stock factory manifold at 6,500 rpm and more torque from 4,000 rpm on up (with a cam upgrade). """ Straight from American Muscle.
Plus there are other guys with vaccuum leaks right out of the box and bad fitment issues.
If your going to spend your money on an intake spend it on a Edelbrock with the MMR adapter.
Why do you guys not believe that headers and an offroad mid pipe are worth 20hp on a stock car? That is about 17rwhp. I can easily see LT's adding 17rwhp to a car with stock exhaust.
Just a comment on the Typhoon intake: From what I've seen, it probably really does add 20rwhp... but keep in mind that it is at 6500rpm. From idle to 5500rpm, the intake generally losses power and torque, and makes the car slower. Then, on the final charge to redline, it makes a bit of extra power, just before you shift and are once again in that rev band where the intake lost power and torque. Sure, it made more power for that brief moment, but it was just that... a brief moment.
So unless you have a real nice head and cam combination which you are spinning well over 6500rpm, you are probably better off with a PI intake. The PI intake is better suited for the operating range of most 4.6's here. Not a matter of having power adders or not.. just the operating range.
So unless you have a real nice head and cam combination which you are spinning well over 6500rpm, you are probably better off with a PI intake. The PI intake is better suited for the operating range of most 4.6's here. Not a matter of having power adders or not.. just the operating range.
