Broke my power steering ram mount

[other_shoe]

For the second time in six years, my power steering ram broke its mount free. Both times it has been the longer mount for headers.

The first time the crush nuts failed and were ripped free of the frame rail.

This time the welded seam between the x and y planes tore.

I'm wondering what is causing this since the steering linkage turns relatively easily (I've removed the belt from the pulley so the ram isn't active).

I'll likely replace the control valve, box, and ram with rebuilt stuff from Chocko -- or throw my hands up and buy the Borgeson box -- but I'd appreciate any thoughts on what part of the system could be causing this.

 

[2+2GT]

If the bracket is properly made, and welded to the frame rail, there's only one other possible cause. If you turn the front wheels with the car stationary, or hold the wheel hard against the stops, the stress on that bracket goes through the roof. It also stresses the rest of the system, such as the pump and valve. This would be true even with Borgeson or R&P.

 

[other_shoe]

If you turn the front wheels with the car stationary ... the stress on that bracket goes through the roof.

Thanks. This may be it, but it would be a significant problem since I have a "tuck-under" garage that requires a "Y" turn to get in and out. I wouldn't say that I hold the wheel hard against the stops, but I certainly turn them while stationary. FWIW, I would estimate that we're talking about fewer than 200 entries and exits before the part failed.

Also, I left out one detail that may be significant. In the instance today, there had been a clunk in the previous two or three times I'd moved the car in and out of the garage, but it was occurring during the wheels' travel through center. Thus, I thought I was having trouble with the valve or part of the linkage and had that next on my list after the cowl shenanigans (discussed in another thread). I'm wondering whether all of this has any relation to an on-going steering concern in which the re-centering action seemed to over-correct while moving.

 

[chockostang]

Sorry to hear of your termoil, but the facts or true when adding the extra length of the ram bracket for headers. It simply magnifies the stress placed on the mounting area.

If the frame rail, and bracket are cleaned very well, a good welder welds the bracket on, I believe it will stay put.

If you don't want to weld it, here is a Guaranteed way. Remove the old crush nuts. Find the frail rail factory accress hole on the inside behind the rear hole where bracket fits. Using a magnet lower a NEW grade 8 bolt through the hole. Have your inside washer already fixed to bolt with whatever you have (Epoxy, Silicone, etc). Put Washers, nut on, Impact on.

Front hole, No access hole, so make it. Using a 1" metal hole saw, Make a hole above. Same thing, drop in bolt. The finish, get a black plastic snap in plug, put in hole, under coat over hole.

Top Horizonal hole will fit as normal.

I'll guarantee it will never come off.

Dan @ Chockostang

 

[other_shoe]

It's welded on there now -- and well enough that the weld on the part failed before the weld from the install -- but I absolutely would try Dan's method if I were working with a blank slate.

I know others on the site have had better fortunes with the header-lowering bracket combination, but I would go with the HiPo manifolds and keep the stock bracket if I could do it all over again. I still may have to since my particular situation would appear to amplify the problems with the lowering bracket's leverage issues.

Thanks to you both for your expertise on this.

 

[2+2GT]

The PS, IIRC, can generate 800 psi. Think of it as a Port-A-Power with nothing to do but break your bracket. If you are not rolling, at least a little, all 800 psi goes into the bracket. Oversize tires make it even worse. Just a little forward or backward drift, very slight roll, takes a lot of strain off the steering.

 

[robbz28]

I know exactly how strong those things are...nearly broke my forearm. I had my hoses connected backwards on the control valve, reached my hand through the steering wheel to crank it (like a moron) and the second that 289 busted off that steering wheel whipped back and forth 4 or 5 times bfore i could get it switched off! Beat my forearm to hell

 

[other_shoe]

I had my hoses connected backwards on the control valve, reached my hand through the steering wheel to crank it (like a moron)

I did the exact same thing many years ago and felt like an idiot both for getting them reversed and for sticking my arm through the wheel. Seeing the wheel whip back and forth like that is uncanny.

 

[other_shoe]

I may have found a solution with the JBA bracket (JBA 6656P JBA Power Assist Ram Drop Bracket) which appears to be more sturdily built than the standard issue bracket. This would entail dealing with the lip on the frame rail in some way, but that is not my biggest concern.

Having looked at Stanger's site's information on the drop bracket (http://www.stangerssite.com/dropbracket.html), the sturdier bracket looks like it will still cause geometric problems because it places the ram far more skew to the plane of the centerlink's travel. This will in turn put stress on both ends of the ram, the centerlink, and the idler arm. How much? I don't know. However, while we do not know the cause for certain, we did find that my last centerlink was bent.

Much of this may be amended by better parking technique, but I'm not sure how much I can adapt given my driveway and garage situation and being an older dog. I'll certainly try to implement 2+2GT's advice for alleviating the stresses by not turning the wheels while still, but I'm leaning toward scrapping the Tri-Ys and going back to the stock bracket.

 

[Capt Dan]

messy, but you could throw some sand on your floor to help with the turning.