If I were you I wouldn't complicate the rebuild by converting to PS, you'll increase your costs 4X just with the ram, control valve, pump, brackets, hoses, etc. The I6 is lighter than the V8 so it'll be easier to turn relatively. I would do things to make the manual steering lighter like using a large steering wheel (like the stock one), not putting overly wide/short tires on the front (like 225/60/15) and staying with a stock ht./width (185 70 14?) just don't go larger than 195 I'd say even if you move to a 15" wheel.
You can also change to a roller idler arm (verify with John it'll fit the 6cyl.)
Opentracker Racing Products - Roller Idler Arms
which will free up some bind but you need a good alignment so the tires will return to center after a turn. Also install John's roller perches:
Opentracker Racing Products - Roller Spring Perches
Make sure the gearbox has fresh grease installed, again to eliminate bind.
Are you switching over to V8 steering parts? Which disc brakes are you installing? The I6 parts are a little different and thinner normally, always good to get out of the way should you upgrade to a V8 later.
I'd read this article before starting:
DazeCars, Suspension 101
and suggest doing the 1" Shelby/Arning drop at a min. and have it aligned to the shelby specs. It'll put the tires flatter to the ground for more contact patch, better steering and response, especially with the tires we have now compared to the original bias plys.
Again any of these roller items you can install to free up bind in the steering/
suspension will make the car easier to steer and ride better/ respond better. Also teach him how to drive a manual steer car, just getting the tires rolling at <5mph makes a huge difference in turning the wheel for parking manuevers compared to trying to scrub the wheels from a stop.
Jon