Turbo Stock GT Engine?

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A tubular K-member is not required but is nice on any combination. Simply put this is the front sub-frame and a tubular unit provides strength and minimizes obstructions when you are wrenching on your car. Just the added ease of getting to that pesky third starter bolt is almost worth it! Not trying to hijack the thread but if you consider a tubular k-member know that all are not created equal. Do your homework for your intended application or you will have regrets.
 
jorge, the K member is the structural part bolted underneath the front frame rails to which the engine mounts bolt. It's called a 'K' member because seen from above, it looks a bit like the letter 'K'.

A tubular K is usually needed for turbo applications because routing the exhaust from the manifolds up to the turbo requires a path that is available through the aftermarket tubular K-member openings, a path not available with the closed-in, stamped-steel OE part.
 
On a custom build, it shouldn't be needed. On my old incon twin turbo kit, it wasn't needed. I put one on with the current HP kit, but I planned to do it anyway and don't know if it was necessary.
 
I'm gonna jump in and ask about this "On 3" kit I saw on EBay. While the initial price is enticing, it certainly does not give you EVERYTHING you need, but it's probably 90% of what is needed.

SO, my question is - has anyone bought this kit (or a similar one) from EBay...? Or another mail order outfit with a price in the sub 2K area? I have been thinking about a kit like this for my Mach (they offer both 2V and 4V kits - the link below is for a 2V). I'd add a QA1 K Member, fuel pump, injectors, MAF and upgrade to a Master Power turbo (and some other crap which probably adds another $1K), but I could buy this stuff in pieces, which, at least for me, makes it a bit more doable. I plan to keep the internals stock. It's hard to dump $5+K in one shot, but if I can slice it into $1K chunks, I'd be more likely to make it happen. Call it a lay-away!

I'm seriously bent on a turbo setup because of the efficiency of the newer turbos. Lag is nearly non existent today. I like twin screw blowers for the street (who doesn't?), but I'm really leaning toward a turbo setup.

Anyway, sorry for the hijack of sorts - but I'm really curious if anyone else has bought a 'kit' like this or how did they piece their setup together? Should I skip this mentality and just go Hellion or ???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-Pe...9903031?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item1e65fa0537
 
Sorry guys I haven't posted anything in my OWN thread for some time since it started, I'm kinda lazy when it comes to replying to things but thank you all so much for the info! I mean there was so much that my brain could barely take in everything I read, but I did and now I'm a whole hell of a lot more educated in this department! It was also very entertaining to read some of the things you guys were going back and forth on haha! Thanks once again everyone, I appreciate everything!
 
Sure thing, man! Welcome to stangnet, btw. I'm typically hanging around in the 5.0 forums, but I'm always happy to have another turbo guy around.

twogts4us, I suggest you start your own thread on that subject if you haven't already. It's pretty divergent from the OP's subject, plus you have a better chance of catching someone's interest if they have that kit. Also, check your PMs... I'll be sending one shortly.
 
If going with on3, I would suggest the new forward facing kit and upgrade the turbo (the base one only has a one month warranty if that gives you any hints). My friend had the basic one on his 94 5.0 and the ground clearance was horrible, and the ff kit has better clearance. Be prepared to make modifications, otherwise find a used hellion.

Otherwise check out Hot Rod magazine's cheap ebay turbo build to find the basic parts needed.
 
It's not semantics. There are devices on the compressor side that do divert "air": A blow-off valve, for instance, prevents compressor surge by venting to the atmosphere. A diverter or recirculating valve does basically the same thing except instead of venting to the atmosphere it bridges the compressor outlet to the inlet to maintain intake air volume and reduce noise.

But the point is you said "air." Exhaust is not "air" and it's egregious to lazily interchange the terms (especially in a thread about turbos where half the turbo does indeed deal with air) in a thread where people are trying to learn something, moreso when the person doing it is coming off, intentionally or not, as some sort of arrogant know-it-all picking the fly**** out of the pepper in other people's posts.


A wastegate doesn't work on the compressor side of the turbo. It is on the exhaust side and used to control the speed of the compressor side of the turbo. What you are defining is the blow off valve and you are correct at what it does. But a wastegate is not the same as a blow off valve.