I just barely put a turbo kit on my '90 GT and when I start the car it runs super rough (even in the 1k+ RPM), it won't idle and it won't go beyond 2K RPM. Ideas?
Turbo 5.0 not running
- Thread starter HOOKERBEAR
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Probably has nothing to do with the turbo or the kit itself. Look for vacuum leaks to start, ensure all your electronics are properly plugged in. Are you running the stock MAF or did you change it? Is all of the air going through the MAF, or is the intake tubing letting air in somewhere? What else changed with the turbo kit?
There are a lot of reasons that might cause an engine to run rough. You need someone who can diagnose it by listening and looking at what's going on. I mean, you basically told us, "my car is running rough. Why?"
There are a lot of reasons that might cause an engine to run rough. You need someone who can diagnose it by listening and looking at what's going on. I mean, you basically told us, "my car is running rough. Why?"
I'm using a blow through MAF, 42 lb injectors, and a chip. I've already checked vacuum and I'm quite certain all of the engine electronics are plugged in. I have the fuel tank dropped and it just sends the fuel back to the tank. I know I'm getting fuel pressure because I checked it at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Injector problems possibly? I'm going to check error codes and test to make sure there are no cylinders missing tomorrow.
I have not tried taking the chip out because I don't think that's the problem. I suspect I have a stuck injector on the passengers side bank because I found gas in my crankcase. The fuel pump also runs constantly upon flipping the key to ignition, probably because the system is unable to properly pressurize due to a stuck injector. Is there a good way to test the injectors to see if one of them is stuck? Also I found the pcv valve out of its socket on the lower intake manifold and it smelled like gas. Since the car is turbocharged is it feasible for this to happen? (turbocharged applications can have greater intake pressure than crankcase pressure and I already have gas in my crankcase). How could this influence how then engine runs if the pcv valve is not connected? Is there a good way to get gas out of the crankcase besides draining the oil?
I had a similar problem when I put my hellion kit on. After alot of chasing my tail it was the MAF I had ruled it out at first because it worked fine before. It was an older blow through style pro-m, but it did not work gave me all kinds of trouble with the turbo kit. I had a c&l (not my first choice by the way) and put it on and it worked fine. I even had it tuned with the c&l at Murrlio Motorsports. He said he did not like the c&l and wanted me to upgrade to a card style meter, but I did not have the $. Tuned fine however. Don't know if thats your problem but it was mine good luck.
Yes, I changed to some 42lb injectors. I'm also using a Pro-M blow-through mass air sensor. I have been able to get it to rev higher now. I got it to redline last night and it revved good. How did your engine behave Joey?
Yes, the Pro-M is calibrated for 42lb injectors. Are there any easy ways to test injectors to see if one is stuck?
If one is stuck open, you should be seeing smoke. just unplug them one at a time and see if it clears up. Make sure to give it a couple minutes to clear the smoke already in the exhaust.
I agree with the others about pulling the chip. Why are you convinced it isn't the problem?
I agree with the others about pulling the chip. Why are you convinced it isn't the problem?
Pulling the chip is easy and you would be surprised how many times I have run into an issue with the connection at the chip or a chip that goes crazy. Ive had them die on the dyno while tuning...
I like the Pro-M protubes, they work very well and run clean, smooth....
If you think you have a injector sticking it will quickly wash out the cylinder wall and you'll loose ring seal in that cylinder....with a large injector it doesnt take long. If the chip tubne is not pulling enough fuel at at idel it could be loading the plugs up and fouling them, turbo cars can be finiky down low.
What plug are you running? What gap? What cylinder head?
I like the Pro-M protubes, they work very well and run clean, smooth....
If you think you have a injector sticking it will quickly wash out the cylinder wall and you'll loose ring seal in that cylinder....with a large injector it doesnt take long. If the chip tubne is not pulling enough fuel at at idel it could be loading the plugs up and fouling them, turbo cars can be finiky down low.
What plug are you running? What gap? What cylinder head?
MIne was super rough as well and would only let me get some rpm if I went into it really slow. If I gave it too much pedal too quickly it would run like it was missing and or super rich. Buy the way I do like the pro-m tubes as well how ever the blow through I was running was an older one that is in their chrome "bullet" style housing with a funnel shaped tube in it. It was a 42# injector blow through. I ran it NA and it seemed to work fine, but once it was on the turbo car it ran like dog do do. I have a pro-m TUBE I got used but have not tried it yet. I currently do not have the kit on my car and am waiting till I get it retuned to try it out.
I will admit I am not 100% certain it isn't the chip. I suppose I will still try it, I would like to get my fuel system problem figured out first. That is unless the chip is telling one of the injectors to stay open all the time. I'm not terribly familiar with what exactly the chip controls so if one of you are familiar with what the chip controls I would love to learn.
I am seeing smoke when I run the car, so if I unplug the little electrical plug on my injector it will cut the gas off on a cylinder even if the injector is stuck? As far as plugs are concerned, I'm running brand new Motorcraft platinums gaped at .030" in stock E7TE heads.
I am seeing smoke when I run the car, so if I unplug the little electrical plug on my injector it will cut the gas off on a cylinder even if the injector is stuck? As far as plugs are concerned, I'm running brand new Motorcraft platinums gaped at .030" in stock E7TE heads.
First, swap out the platinum plugs, you dont want those in a boosted motor. Try a Autolite 23 or 24 gapped at .035"
Unplugging the inj will not allow it to fire, chip will not control the firing per say. What kind of chip pr tuner are you using.
Unplugging the inj will not allow it to fire, chip will not control the firing per say. What kind of chip pr tuner are you using.
Did unplugging the injectors one at a time work for you? I was thinking about the problem you posed. I guess if the injector was totally fubar and completely stuck open, then I guess you could swap the injectors one set at a time from one bank to the other until the smoke switched sides. Just an idea.
Glad you found it,
Chris
Glad you found it,
Chris
I found it by removing my turbo piping and taking plugs out. Gas practically poured out and the plug was wet. I actually thought about the idea of switching the injectors from side to side and feeling the wells on the exhaust manifolds to see if one was cool. The idea of removing the upper plenum wasn't the most attractive idea in the world so I opted to remove the turbo piping to remove plugs because if I would have gone either way I would have had to remove turbo piping, checking plugs was a hair less labor intensive. I'll have a new injector next week so I'll be sure to post my results. I now know who to consult when it comes to figuring problems out. I really appreciate all of the input and help everyone has given me.
New injector is in. I tried removing the chip and it did the job. Stupid chip! All I know is it is FAST, when the turbo spools it loosens the tires up. Its a beautiful thing!
