GOAL: 12.999 on stock motor 5.0 and AOD. Possible?

[SVT32VDOHC]

My AOD trans in my 91 GT would shift from 2nd to 3rd at 4,700 RPM. I thought something was wrong, but I read and was told they all do that. The 1-2-1 shift is the only way I could see your car getting into the 12's. When I 1-2-1 shifted the car, it was a beast!!!! It also had GT40 Heads, Cobra intake, RR's, E-cam, headers, H-pipe, cat-back, 4.10's. Suspension was all stock, never had it at the track, but on the street that thing flew on the 1-2-1 shift, otherwise in D, it was a DOG!!!!!

I'd also inspect your motor mounts. Previous cars (5-spds) that had poly mounts were stock engines and suspensions, but when I changed the mounts over, the car transfered weight better and faster and I could bark 3rd gear, which could NEVER be done before.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

I tried the same thing you are doing with my 90LX AOD like 17 years ago. My car would not improve past 13.2 @ 106MPH. I tried for months. I gave up and installed an Art Carr AOD (just a tranny swap) and it got me into the 12's on the first pass (still stock motor). Pretty much had the same things done you have.

 

[90mustangGT]

My AOD trans in my 91 GT would shift from 2nd to 3rd at 4,700 RPM. I thought something was wrong, but I read and was told they all do that. The 1-2-1 shift is the only way I could see your car getting into the 12's. When I 1-2-1 shifted the car, it was a beast!!!! It also had GT40 Heads, Cobra intake, RR's, E-cam, headers, H-pipe, cat-back, 4.10's. Suspension was all stock, never had it at the track, but on the street that thing flew on the 1-2-1 shift, otherwise in D, it was a DOG!!!!!

I'd also inspect your motor mounts. Previous cars (5-spds) that had poly mounts were stock engines and suspensions, but when I changed the mounts over, the car transfered weight better and faster and I could bark 3rd gear, which could NEVER be done before.

Yes the AOD is a dog Mine does the same thing. I got my 8.6 pass doing the 1-2-1 or 1-D-1, and it made a difference. In the OD position, it really sucks, shifts way low, but in regular D it isn't too bad, but the 1-D-1 it really helped.

Yes, the mounts are moving a bit. I have some MM brand solid engine mounts. I have the solid tranny mount but I was told it isn't such a good idea, but I also have the poly trans mount. I kind of want to do all that in one hit when I do the K-member, which was going to happen today but I just dragged ass today and couldn't get motivated so I never went in and did it. It will happen soon enough. The K-member, solid mounts, and manual rack will shed off some weight and it will probably drive better. I have the P/S deleted, but still have the power rack. I get sidetracked because I really need to do some decent springs too. The coil overs came with 200lbs 12" springs which are way too firm, I need about a 130lbs 14" spring. They are cheap, I should order them. I also want to do the LX front bumper cover.

I tried the same thing you are doing with my 90LX AOD like 17 years ago. My car would not improve past 13.2 @ 106MPH. I tried for months. I gave up and installed an Art Carr AOD (just a tranny swap) and it got me into the 12's on the first pass (still stock motor). Pretty much had the same things done you have.

I know if I do it, it's not going to be much room after that. The 1/8th track I am going to is old, and uphill, ever worse than the old track I went to. When cars break, they just put them in neutral and they roll right back with no help needed. Everyone says it's not a bad track, but you can expect .2 better at any good track. Ok, so I'm even closer. Then count the fact that I was running this 8.6 (8.4 corrected) with a lousy 2.0 60ft. If I could get a 1.8 at a good track, I'm breaking into the 12's. I already have the MPH for it.

The reason I am doing it this way is I want to be able to get the car so it will run the max for what it has. Every time you go to the track you see it all the time, rather built cars that can't break into the 13's in the 1/3 or out of the 9's in the 1/8th. There were a few foxes at the track last time, cammed, full exhaust, Cobra intake, ect that were in the 9's, mine in the mid 8's.

 

[90mustangGT]

Just a little update. I went to summit last night and got some new springs for the front coil overs. I swapped out the 12" 200lbs/in springs for 14" 130lbs spring. It's real easy to swap out springs when you are using coil overs. Much more lift now, like a early 90's Buick in the front. It was late so I didn't have the energy to find my spanner wrench and adjust the ride hight right.

One issue is the rear sits too high now with the moroso springs. I might see if I can cut a coil. The nose sits too low compared to the back, doesn't let weight transfer, unless I want to drive with it all 4x4 style.

I really need to do subframes and torque box reinforcement.

 

[88blowngt]

I'm looking to do a upr chromeoly k with coilovers with the 14" 130 lb springs in the next few months. I don't understand how your car isn't transferring weight with the better springs up front. Are those moroso springs, drag springs?

 

[Sharad]

I've done the deed on a T5. 1989 Ford Mustang LX - Fox Buildup

I'm sure it can be done, but you're right... you need to get that thing out of the hole. I know you said you have suspension, but you're gonna need to up your game a little to get that 12. Probably a 1.60 60'.

Top notch suspension, better tires, and a big gear should do it. But yes, as everyone else has said, converter and shift kit will make a day and night difference.

I'm looking to do a upr chromeoly k with coilovers with the 14" 130 lb springs in the next few months.

Good move. PM me for the Stangnet discount code when you order your kit.

 

[ill advised]

rsw007 has been running his AOD for a while now and has put down good numbers. Might be good to look him up. I don't know the extent of his mods at this point.

 

[90mustangGT]

I'm looking to do a upr chromeoly k with coilovers with the 14" 130 lb springs in the next few months. I don't understand how your car isn't transferring weight with the better springs up front. Are those moroso springs, drag springs?

Yes, those are Moroso Drag springs. The right is slightly stiffer than the left. You can't transfer weight if you can't hook well enough to get the weight to transfer. Maybe on the slicks it will. The 130lbs spring have made a difference I can tell.

I've done the deed on a T5. 1989 Ford Mustang LX - Fox Buildup

I'm sure it can be done, but you're right... you need to get that thing out of the hole. I know you said you have suspension, but you're gonna need to up your game a little to get that 12. Probably a 1.60 60'.

Top notch suspension, better tires, and a big gear should do it. But yes, as everyone else has said, converter and shift kit will make a day and night difference.

Good move. PM me for the Stangnet discount code when you order your kit.

I've seen it done with a t5 but not too often, but a stock AOD? It would be nuts to do that! I want to try, not saying I will, but I'm going to try. I'm sitting with a 8.6 in the short run so that's about a 13.5 quarter. Yes, a half second is a lot to drop, but a rule of thumb is .2 off your ET for every .1 off your 60ft. So a 1.8 would put me on a to a 8.2 - 8.3. That's cracking 12's or deep 13's. Consider the track I went to is not a very good one where everyone there said they usually run .2 better at other tracks, that puts me at a 8.0. I have the MPH for it, 87mph is a high MPH for 8.6ET. That comes out to a 106 in the 1/4, and that is 12 second MPH. I apreciate the offer, I might take you up on that one.

rsw007 has been running his AOD for a while now and has put down good numbers. Might be good to look him up. I don't know the extent of his mods at this point.

The main reason I don't want to put the TKO in there is because of a couple reasons. One is that I need to do some work to make it work (shorten driveshaft, trans crossmember) and also some chassis bracing like all get out. Not to mention torque box reinforcements. I am not going to beat this car up to be a total POS, but yet I lack funds.


Thanks for the input everyone. It really helps me look at this in a 3rd person prespective.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

The only way you're getting in there is if the AOD is worked. The stock one won't do it. Not trying to discourage, I've tried this before and got to a 13.2 and could not improve for almost a year. I had done every trick in the book. If you put a converter in it with shift kit you will most likely get it. For me at the time to do all that I just ripped the stock AOD and replaced it with a worked one. Just the tranny swap alone was .4 on the first pass with no other changes. May try it in the winter, with a head wind, no seats, slicks and a perfect launch and maybe just maybe a 12.999.

 

[90mustangGT]

Yeah something tells me I'm going to hit that wall as well. A stock AOD is like driving around with a parking brake on. SO much energy is lost through the AOD and the more power you get in it, the worse it gets. I drove my buddies 5 speed car yesterday, and well, damn I miss it. I am a bit out of practice but I can drive the dogpoop out of a manual. It is a goal, so time to start ordering the parts to make it happen. Its just that with that clutch (spec III) and setup, I'll tear something up in the chassis.

 

[izak]

OK I cant hold back any more!!! I am a proud owner of a AOD and everyone here is right/wrong about them. The AOD is really holding you back alot. but with minor mods you can do it. I went through the same thing.
1. remove your trans pan, take out the valve body and send it to Click Click Racing - Click Click Racing he will work on it for about 200-300 buck depending on what you want

Put it back in and go racing you will hit the 12.99 mark.
I will remind you that by just doing this mod and not the converter your chances of ruining the converter increase. But hey you will break that 12.99 mark. I did the same mod and was amazed at how much horsepower I was killing in the stock AOD valve body.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

OK I cant hold back any more!!! I am a proud owner of a AOD and everyone here is right/wrong about them. The AOD is really holding you back alot. but with minor mods you can do it. I went through the same thing.
1. remove your trans pan, take out the valve body and send it to Click Click Racing - Click Click Racing he will work on it for about 200-300 buck depending on what you want

Put it back in and go racing you will hit the 12.99 mark.
I will remind you that by just doing this mod and not the converter your chances of ruining the converter increase. But hey you will break that 12.99 mark. I did the same mod and was amazed at how much horsepower I was killing in the stock AOD valve body.

Dude, you're dreaming. If running 12.9X with a stock Mustang was as easy as a valve body swap, everyone would be running them. There's a lot more to it than that.

 

[ill advised]

izak, also keep in mind that his whole point is to see how far an unmodified AOD will take him.

 

[Bullitt95]

It won't take him anywhere if it's combined with a stock 5.0 from intake to oil pan. To go 12.999 in stock 5.0 motor and AOD you need at least the following:

1. Weight reduction.
2. Improved traction (tires, suspension).
3. Get more engine power down to the ground: gears, shift kit, converter.

 

[izak]

Added a electric fan and a 180*F t-stat. Deleted the P/S, smog, clutchfan, and the A/C and it has underdrives.

A LOT of weight reduction (HVAC, back seats, bumper cores, LX conversion ect) and the battery in the trunk. I have suspension and a 3.73 gear.

I have a set of ET Streets. I am thinking that if I could tag a 1.7 60ft, I would be close. I doubt a 1.6 could be possible with a stock AOD. I don't want to "gut" the car. I might take the passenger seat out for the race if I'm close.

So has anyone ever done this? Anyone known of someone who's done this? Any tips?


This is what he has done to it so far, so my thoughts on this was based on these mods being done. Again I went the same route on my stang and it was a day and night difference when I did the valve body. The only difference is that I also install a 2500 stall which also helped alot.

 

[izak]

But I will say this, an un-modified AOD is the worst. And I know that it is killing most of your HP on the way to the wheels.

 

[ill advised]

It won't take him anywhere if it's combined with a stock 5.0 from intake to oil pan. To go 12.999 in stock 5.0 motor and AOD you need at least the following:

1. Weight reduction.
2. Improved traction (tires, suspension).
3. Get more engine power down to the ground: gears, shift kit, converter.

We already know these things. I was just restating his original intent for izak.

But I will say this, an un-modified AOD is the worst. And I know that it is killing most of your HP on the way to the wheels.

The first time I did a full wot run in my bone stock, 2.73 geared aod I couldn't believe I was actually driving a 5.0.

 

[90mustangGT]

Hittin' Easy Street on Drag Tires....

Put on the ET Streets!

Took it for a little drive. HUGE traction difference even at 22psi and cold. For the first time in this car, the tires have allowed the suspension to work. Stalled it up the little bit and let it loose, front end came way up and it was off and running. At the prepped track and a decent burnout, I know it will have more taction than the car will be able to break. These tires are bigger, but lighter. Another issue I found was the front brake lines were pinched. Free now. So the brakes work much better. Had to flip the quads too. Some say I don't need them, but just in case, they help.

I was afraid of this:

BEFORE:

225/60R15's
AFTER:

26x10.50R15



The tires fill the rim and wheel well now I don't know how I can bring myself to putting those crappy street tires back on. Not to mention the traction. I guess it's time to get some drag radials.

But I will say this, an un-modified AOD is the worst. And I know that it is killing most of your HP on the way to the wheels.

You've got that right. Driving a stock 5sp vs. a stock auto, everything else the same, it's not even much of a race unless the driver of the 5 speed is a terrible driver.

This is what he has done to it so far, so my thoughts on this was based on these mods being done. Again I went the same route on my stang and it was a day and night difference when I did the valve body. The only difference is that I also install a 2500 stall which also helped alot.

Yes, I know a stall and a shift kit would make a huge difference, but I'm trying to do this unmodified. Im not too far away.

It won't take him anywhere if it's combined with a stock 5.0 from intake to oil pan. To go 12.999 in stock 5.0 motor and AOD you need at least the following:

1. Weight reduction.
2. Improved traction (tires, suspension).
3. Get more engine power down to the ground: gears, shift kit, converter.

Weight reduction, check. Traction, check. More power to the ground, part check. Besides the slushbox it's there.

izak, also keep in mind that his whole point is to see how far an unmodified AOD will take him.

Yes, I'm not too far away.

OK I cant hold back any more!!! I am a proud owner of a AOD and everyone here is right/wrong about them. The AOD is really holding you back alot. but with minor mods you can do it. I went through the same thing.
1. remove your trans pan, take out the valve body and send it to Click Click Racing - Click Click Racing he will work on it for about 200-300 buck depending on what you want

Put it back in and go racing you will hit the 12.99 mark.
I will remind you that by just doing this mod and not the converter your chances of ruining the converter increase. But hey you will break that 12.99 mark. I did the same mod and was amazed at how much horsepower I was killing in the stock AOD valve body.

Doing this unmodified is half the point/battle.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Most drag race cars do not have sway bars (only need for side to side or cornering). Might as well remove at least the rear. It will launch better plus you will save 25lbs out back. It's four 15MM bolts and about 2 minutes of time.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I don't know why traction is such an issue for you guys? When my old 2.73 geared '87 Mustang GT was stock, I could barely spin the tires on clean, dry pavement as it was? Adding a set of drag radials to the mix really wouldn't have made a lick of difference IMO?