Translation: What kind of oil are you using? Synthetic? Conventional? Blend? Weight? Brand? Any certain line within a brand and weight? Any reason why? Any additives? Filter? Any brand/weight/line have you had any bad experiences?
I've been a Mobil 1 fan for a long time. My 5.0 has seen mostly synthetic since it was new, and I'm keeping it that way. I haven't changed the oil that much since I got it, because since I've gotten it I've only driven it less than 7K miles in the past two years. I've ran the Mobil 1 Syn 10W40 High Mileage and I have ran the regular 10W30 Synthetic Mobil 1. I just picked up the 10W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I use the 5W30 in my truck, seems to be really good stuff. I debated 10W40, it is a bit thicker, but this car was designed around 10W30 so I'm sticking with it, plus it's about to start cooling off. I am sure the clearances have opened up a bit, but when 30 weight isn't enough, I've got bigger issues and a thicker oil won't fix it. Working in the auto service industry, I have seen a lot. I know that so many manufactuers recomend Mobil 1. BMW/VW recomends Castrol.
Mobil 1 Extended Performance has the best API ratings. UKSAC, GF-5 (high requirement) ACEA, A1/B1, A5/B5, SN, SM, SL. Now I don't know what all these requirements mean, except GF which I know GF-4 is rather high, so this exceeds that. I didn't see any other oil that met all these requirements. Yeah, they all can claim this and claim that, but when they have to answer to the certifications, that's different. It's kind of like the difference between someone who knows how to sound like a lawyer, and someone who actually has a law degree and has passed the BAR. I haven't run the M1 EP in this car yet. Just regular M1 syn.
I am looking into the Mobil 1 0W40. It's highly recomended by some good sources. Google it. I saw a dyno test on it, and it came out the highest, and that's over royal purple. It's great in the cold, and great in the heat. I might do this stuff next time.
I'd probably run Amsoil but the fact you have to go through a dealer and pay the markup for "special oil" is a big turnoff for me. Amsoil shows M1 as being almost as good as it is, so that tells you something.
I have seen what I've seen, and looked at many tests, and I know synthetic is worth the extra money. It doesn't break down and form sludge and deposits, and it performs so much better at extremes. Get a conventional really hot, it gets super thin and doesn't lubercate well at all. Get it real cold and it separates. A 10W30 conventional might flow the same at test temps, but out of those ranges the synthetic stays stable. I have stuck a quart of 5W30 of both synthetic and conventional in a -20F freezer, the synthetic still was liquid, the conventional wasn't solid, but much thicker. When heated in a pan, the conventional will flow like water, while the synthetic will flow loose, but remains oil like. Although I doubt any part of my engine gets that hot, where it gets the hottest, it will need that protection critically, and the weakest link of a chain can bring the whole anvil crashing down. Also, changing oil at work, I've noticed the one's who use synthetic, even when they don't change oil but every 10K or so, it drains out smooth from when you pull the plug all the way until it drips. Conventional, especially if they neglect over 5K, it tends to clump out, and doesn't flow as smooth. Some cars if they are hot and you open the oil cap, smoke comes out if they are running conventional when the engine recomends synthetic. Synthetic holds dirt much better, and if it does burn off, it burns off uniform. With a conventional the thin part burns off first, and they get saturated with dirt fast, and leave deposits. Even when the oil drained out of a synthetic oiled car is black as night, after you drain it, when you put fresh in, it's clean looking. Do this with conventional and it's black after running the motor for only a minute.
For the filter, I run Motorcraft. For the truck I use AC Delco. I've used M1 filters, but don't feel they are worth the money. The motorcraft filters are actually some of the best out there, equal to the Pure One, except not as expensive. Another good filter is the Napa Gold, and it's cheap too. I say this with experience, don't EVER use Fram, espeically the orange one's.
Oil I am against? Not really, except Royal Purple for conventional use. It's slippery oil to say the least, and I might use it next year. In fact, it's some really slippery stuff. However there is a huge difference between how slippery it is and how it protects. Royal Purple breaks down faster, and leaves a film. It's designed for engines that are torn down often.
Just some thoughts. What say you?
I've been a Mobil 1 fan for a long time. My 5.0 has seen mostly synthetic since it was new, and I'm keeping it that way. I haven't changed the oil that much since I got it, because since I've gotten it I've only driven it less than 7K miles in the past two years. I've ran the Mobil 1 Syn 10W40 High Mileage and I have ran the regular 10W30 Synthetic Mobil 1. I just picked up the 10W30 Mobil 1 Extended Performance. I use the 5W30 in my truck, seems to be really good stuff. I debated 10W40, it is a bit thicker, but this car was designed around 10W30 so I'm sticking with it, plus it's about to start cooling off. I am sure the clearances have opened up a bit, but when 30 weight isn't enough, I've got bigger issues and a thicker oil won't fix it. Working in the auto service industry, I have seen a lot. I know that so many manufactuers recomend Mobil 1. BMW/VW recomends Castrol.
Mobil 1 Extended Performance has the best API ratings. UKSAC, GF-5 (high requirement) ACEA, A1/B1, A5/B5, SN, SM, SL. Now I don't know what all these requirements mean, except GF which I know GF-4 is rather high, so this exceeds that. I didn't see any other oil that met all these requirements. Yeah, they all can claim this and claim that, but when they have to answer to the certifications, that's different. It's kind of like the difference between someone who knows how to sound like a lawyer, and someone who actually has a law degree and has passed the BAR. I haven't run the M1 EP in this car yet. Just regular M1 syn.
I am looking into the Mobil 1 0W40. It's highly recomended by some good sources. Google it. I saw a dyno test on it, and it came out the highest, and that's over royal purple. It's great in the cold, and great in the heat. I might do this stuff next time.
I'd probably run Amsoil but the fact you have to go through a dealer and pay the markup for "special oil" is a big turnoff for me. Amsoil shows M1 as being almost as good as it is, so that tells you something.
I have seen what I've seen, and looked at many tests, and I know synthetic is worth the extra money. It doesn't break down and form sludge and deposits, and it performs so much better at extremes. Get a conventional really hot, it gets super thin and doesn't lubercate well at all. Get it real cold and it separates. A 10W30 conventional might flow the same at test temps, but out of those ranges the synthetic stays stable. I have stuck a quart of 5W30 of both synthetic and conventional in a -20F freezer, the synthetic still was liquid, the conventional wasn't solid, but much thicker. When heated in a pan, the conventional will flow like water, while the synthetic will flow loose, but remains oil like. Although I doubt any part of my engine gets that hot, where it gets the hottest, it will need that protection critically, and the weakest link of a chain can bring the whole anvil crashing down. Also, changing oil at work, I've noticed the one's who use synthetic, even when they don't change oil but every 10K or so, it drains out smooth from when you pull the plug all the way until it drips. Conventional, especially if they neglect over 5K, it tends to clump out, and doesn't flow as smooth. Some cars if they are hot and you open the oil cap, smoke comes out if they are running conventional when the engine recomends synthetic. Synthetic holds dirt much better, and if it does burn off, it burns off uniform. With a conventional the thin part burns off first, and they get saturated with dirt fast, and leave deposits. Even when the oil drained out of a synthetic oiled car is black as night, after you drain it, when you put fresh in, it's clean looking. Do this with conventional and it's black after running the motor for only a minute.
For the filter, I run Motorcraft. For the truck I use AC Delco. I've used M1 filters, but don't feel they are worth the money. The motorcraft filters are actually some of the best out there, equal to the Pure One, except not as expensive. Another good filter is the Napa Gold, and it's cheap too. I say this with experience, don't EVER use Fram, espeically the orange one's.
Oil I am against? Not really, except Royal Purple for conventional use. It's slippery oil to say the least, and I might use it next year. In fact, it's some really slippery stuff. However there is a huge difference between how slippery it is and how it protects. Royal Purple breaks down faster, and leaves a film. It's designed for engines that are torn down often.
Just some thoughts. What say you?
