BLOWN 5.0 FOX BUILD THREAD

[j0Hn10]

Here is another update:
The braided supply/return fuel lines from the tank to the engine bay are done! This wasn’t too difficult of a task after I figured out where to put the lines. The only obstacle I ran into was the A1000 pump, it was facing the opposite way. The issue with this was the way it was mounted to the tank in a weird way which required me to drop the tank to get the bolts off the pump. After rectifying this issue, the rest went smooth. By the way I’ve never really had any experience with Aeromotive equipment before but this pump is retarded big.

After getting the fuel lines to the engine bay I had to figure out where everything for the fuel system was going to go. In this case I figured the regulator would be good near the pass strut tower on the firewall but offset a bit so I can still get the engine wiring harness and some other items below it. So my brother fab’d up a bracket which worked out perfect. This takes care of the fuel loop from the rails to the regulator and the return line from the regulator to the tank. The supply y-block I decided would be good below the regulator and a little more to the driver side which worked out too.

More to come….

 

[j0Hn10]

After I finished the fuel lines it was on to the brakes. The previous owner had most of this done but after looking at the flare ends and line setups I decided to replace it all. First thing I noticed was that the brake booster wasn’t fully bolted in so I got under the dash to see what was up. I noticed only two nuts on the brake booster itself of which where the wrong type to begin with since this particular booster had metric threads. After removing these nuts and replacing them with the correct m8 nuts which were a complete pita. One good thing that came from this work was….new tool! Apparently someone left this up there the last time it was worked on.

After replacing the lines it was time to install the brake proportioning valve. The m-2003-k kit has the rear brake proportional valve being supported by the lines, but I decided it would be better just to mount it. So my brother fab’d up another bracket to be mounted to the firewall to support such.

All that’s left now is to bleed the brakes and finalize the e-brake weld.

 

[j0Hn10]

Does anybody know if anybody sells white face gauge replacement plastic sheets (not the typical stickers?) with red indicators instead of the stock green; just trying to find out before I get some made. What I’m trying to do is convert the whole mustang interior indicator lighting to white face/red illumination.

 

[BLOWN 5.0 FOX]

Hey John - I cant tell you how happy I am to see this car get the attention it deserves. Ive owned this car since I was 17 and basically fell in love (and learned) how to work on cars. Unfortunetly, getting involved in the car business was my demise as far as having enough time to dedicate to the build. If you have any questions feel free to PM this account as I will keep track of the final assy.

 

[Cobra912]

long time to own a car! glad to see it's not seeing a terrible fate like being parted out! I hate that.....

 

[j0Hn10]

Blown 5.0 Fox,
Thanks.

Update:

Brakes along with ebrake are 100%

As i started to look at electrical i decided it would be best to just redo it all, so currently im about 40% thru this phase. To help aid in the rewire process my brother gutted the interior while i was at work to make the process go much smoother.

After reading a sound dampening thread i decided to buy some edead matting and cover the interior floor and doors, but before doing such i thought it would be a good idea to put down a coat of por-15 as a preventative maintanence item; both items should be arriving soon.

Engine electrical is almost done (another day should do) just have to clean of the msd ignition & headlight wires.

Engine mechanical is almost done just waiting on upper intake spacers, vac hose kit, and water hose kit.

Thats it for now.....

 

[j0Hn10]

It's been a little while since my last post, so here is a quick update:

Engine electrical and vacuum are 100% done. My brother recently install the radiator and connected up the electrical leads to the fan controller; so far so good.

Waiting on a couple more parts to arrive, but i should be able to start the car up this week; worst case, mid-next week!

 

[j0Hn10]

Well it’s been a while since my last update to this build thread so I figured I would give you all an update of my progress. During the past 8-9 months me and my brother have been working on this car non-stop, so there is quite a bit to post. In advance I want to apologize for the image quality as my cellphone and picture taking skills have much to be desired.

Interior by far has been the biggest challenge. First thing I decided to-do was to convert my interior base color to black. Now in order to-do this right I needed to buy all ford black interior plastics which with most things became a waiting game for the right parts, and in the right conditions. After getting all the parts together the fun began. What I did for well over a week after work was clean and dye the black interior parts to oem black so have all the exact matching interior plastics and the new look. After completing the dying process I decided to start working on the final interior look I had in my head. The overall theme I was going for was carbon fiber on black with red stich accents where ever possibly followed by polished accessories. As you can see in the pictures below I think I pulled it off quite well.

The hardest part of the interior by far was designing and creating unique gauge faces. This by far took 100’s of hours and more iterations than I could count to get the right material and the right setup that would allow for proper light diffusion. The results can be seen below. I will post up night pictures where all the white is back lit red which required a dramatic overhaul of the gauge lighting system.

The monster tach above was originally a front lit face tach which I converted to back lit with red lighting. Again night pictures to come.
Where the radio use to be I decided to go a different route, in its place is a 7” Touchscreen LED LCD display (latest and greatest) which is backed up by a atom based computer in the trunk. I will get back to both in detail a bit later.

The ac gauge cluster has been converted just like the rest of the gauges but this one has a special feature which will be seen when I post up the night pics. Also in this picture you can see the integrated AFR meter LCD gauge in the glove box door. Note: The Back and yellow striped box in the above picture is the stand alone engine management system which I will get into later.
In the center console below there are several integrated items such as 4 usb 2.0 ports along with an aux input. The two toggle switch are setup to shutoff the lcd when I don’t want to see anything but want keep the computer going. The other switch is to override the ignition key computer power on function so that if I put the key in the ignition the computer won’t just automatically startup and shutdown on the carnetix p1900. Also in the bottom right of the picture below you can see the integrated dvd-rw.

Well this kind of completes the front interior. The back interior and trunk I will cover sometime this week, followed by night pictures and details, then onto the rest of the car.

 

[Prime Lord]

Those gauges are SICK! I can't wait to see the night pictures. Just insane interior. I don't think words can express how awesome that is. If the rest of the car is as great... Well... Damn.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

Holy. Thats a whole new level right there

 

[j0Hn10]

Thanks for the comments.
I updated the door picture above with a previous picture I took which shows the lines of the door better. Also another thing you can notice from this pic is the door handle which was swaped with the passenger side. Granted the original way was more user friendly but I did not like the look of it.
The door itself was custom made by a local shop based off my design with all new backing and integrated edead sound damening material.

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

I really like the carbon fiber/red thing you've done w/ the interior. I'll be interested to read what's up w/ all of the computer processing and monitoring.
Nice work.

 

[Kabuki_notch]

looks great!, where abouts in Western NY are you?

 

[VibrantRedGT]

Wow, that interior is beautiful. Nice job on that! I hate the dull Grey Ford interior in the 92, it needs black.

 

[j0Hn10]

Kabuki_Notch - I live in Lockport but I keep the car in Cheektowaga

 

[beyondspexj]

wow. glad to see a project car go to the second owner and continue to live!!

 

[Kabuki_notch]

Kabuki_Notch - I live in Lockport but I keep the car in Cheektowaga

damn only an hour or so away, I would love to check this car out sometime

 

[Gearbanger 101]

So who do I place my order to for a set of those guage faces?

 

[90lxcoupe]

Those gauges look really clean, im curious to know how you made the monster tach light up from the back.

 

[j0Hn10]

Kabuki_notch - Sometime next year when im going to physically stop myself from tweaking and adding to this car

Gearbanger 101 - The current interation costed major $$$. The next interation will be much more simpler since ive devized and less labor intesive process along with cheaper materials.

90lxcoupe - The Traditional monster 5" tach with front light only is 100% sealed. What needs to be done is the outer silver ring needs to be unpressed from the tach housing. After that the needle needs to be removed. Idealistically its hard to remove this needle and still keep factory calibration. But its not to hard to recalibrate as long as you can look at your cars tach output (i used the computer to see what this was when calibrating). Next you need to remove the aluminum gauge face since obv light wont go through this. Now the inner working of the gauge has a socket light location idetical to the sockets found on the back of the dash gauges. I intially tried using just this light to provide the back light. This ended up horribly dim. So instead i used dimable led strip which i lined the whole inner lining and attached the leads to the light socket. With this configuration i was able to achieve a more even light pattern through the custome gauge face that i had made.