ARP 1/2" head bolt torque spec with 10w-30???

ryan7662

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Sep 15, 2007
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Hello again, I was wondering if anyone knew the torque spec for arp head bolts for a 351w? I'm using 10w-30 motor oil instead of their lube and these are the 6 point/170,000 psi hp head bolts. I searched for hours on the web but can only turn up info on the 7/16" bolts. On arps site they say to torque them to 110ft/lbs. Now I hear that with 302(7/16") head bolts you torque them to 85ft/lbs. instead of the 70ft/lbs listed for their lube. Knowing that would I want to torque mine to something like 130ft/lbs since mine say 110ft/lbs with the lube? I want to make sure I don't want to over compress the head gasket or mess up the threads.

Also I hear some say that you should tighten and then loosen the head bolts 3 times? I think arp says to do that 5 times??? These have been torqued to 100ft/lbs once before but one of the oil rings got messed up and I had to tear the motor back down. If I loosen then re-torque the head bolts would I not ruin the head gasket? If I loosen and tighten them back one at a time would that help or would I still mess up the head gasket? I threw away all of my old head gaskets so I'd have to buy new ones if I have to do all this and my gaskets do get messed up in the process. Could I put the head bolts on with a bunch of washers under them instead of the head and loosen and re-torque them 3 times? That way my head gasket doesn't get messed up? Thanks for any help on this
 
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Average sequencing with the mustang head bolts is the 30,50,80 method. Torque all bolts in sequence to 30lbs, then the same thing each with 50lbs and 80lbs. Final torque is not as crucial as following the sequence, but I would at minimum do the recommended 110, and if they specify 5 steps to get there, well... I'd break it up. Its simply to allow the head gasket to be compressed evenly, and to not stress the bolts too quickly. I've not heard of going as high as 130lbs, then again, I've not done it to a 351. I would stick with the original torque specs, I believe we all use 10w30 simply because most of us have it ready to go, and not have to spend the extra $$$ on manufacturer lube.
 
Average sequencing with the mustang head bolts is the 30,50,80 method. Torque all bolts in sequence to 30lbs, then the same thing each with 50lbs and 80lbs. Final torque is not as crucial as following the sequence, but I would at minimum do the recommended 110, and if they specify 5 steps to get there, well... I'd break it up. Its simply to allow the head gasket to be compressed evenly, and to not stress the bolts too quickly. I've not heard of going as high as 130lbs, then again, I've not done it to a 351. I would stick with the original torque specs, I believe we all use 10w30 simply because most of us have it ready to go, and not have to spend the extra $$$ on manufacturer lube.

The 5 steps they speak of is not about the torquing of the bolt in stages, but rather they say to torque it down and then loosen it all the way and repeat 5 times. Something about the bolts needing to be put through 5 cylces to mate the threads of the the bolt and bolt hole. I just thought that was strange because I had never heard of doing that before. Their site says 70ft/lbs for the 302 7/16" bolts and 110 for the 351 1/2" bolts. Stock 351w head bolts call for 105-112ft/lbs. I thought if your using oil with the arp bolts you were suppose to up the torque 10-20 ft/lbs so that's why I was thinking 130ft/lbs.

With all the confusion surrounding this I might wait and get the arp lube to be safe. I wanted to drop my motor w/t5 attached into my 95 gt this weekend since I have 3 days off. I suppose I still could and just set some pieces of thin cardoard between the heads and block. Then I could tighten the bolts to around 40-50ft/lbs and pick it all up with a cherry picker. Would I bend the bolts or hurt anything if I do that?
 
Well I talked to my step-brother last night and he deals a lot with 4.6's and he says regular moly assembly lube should be good enough. He says it's really no different from the arp stuff and to just rub some into the threads of the bolt and tighten to 110ft/lbs. I have some crc black moly-graphite assembly lube from orielly's already so he swears I'll be just fine using it. I have some redline assembly lube too that I used on my main/rod bearings but I think the crc stuff would be better.
 
The ARP ultra torque lube is actually very different then regular moly assembly lube. Their lube is designed to achieve the TQ rating and stretch they suggest with their bolts and its repeatable. Most molys come up less so if the ARP goes 180,000 the reg moly may only be 150,000.

Heres a Youtube video to check out... ARP Ultra-Torque Tested on Horsepower TV - YouTube I saw the same thing at PRI years ago made me a believer. Jody I can send ya a packet if you need some!

I verified this with rod bolts with my stretch guage....
 
The ARP ultra torque lube is actually very different then regular moly assembly lube. Their lube is designed to achieve the TQ rating and stretch they suggest with their bolts and its repeatable. Most molys come up less so if the ARP goes 180,000 the reg moly may only be 150,000.

Heres a Youtube video to check out... ARP Ultra-Torque Tested on Horsepower TV - YouTube I saw the same thing at PRI years ago made me a believer. Jody I can send ya a packet if you need some!

I verified this with rod bolts with my stretch guage....

Yeah I might wait then so I don't have any doubt about the lube I'm using. I really wanted to put it together this weekend but I guess I'll wait another week. Been rebuilding this car for 2 yrs what's another week;)
 
Since I'm gonna wait should I loosen the main cap/rod bolts that I tightened up with oil and use the arp ultra torque? I'm gonna get the big bottle so I'll have enough. If I do that would I torque it to the same stock torque rating?