Difficulty Shifting into 1st (sometimes)

[AeFox88]

Like the title says, when I'm in neutral at say a stop light or something, I'll have trouble getting into 1st. It's not real difficult, takes some coercing, but it goes in. It feels like there is something blocking it from going in. I usually just try to get it in a couple times, and after say, the 2nd or even 3rd time it will go in. Like I said, this doesn't happen all the time. Sometimes it's shifting smooth as butter.

It's a short throw by the way. Pro 5.0 Power Stick. Came with the car. I read that this problem could be caused by worn shift linkage? What's going on? I'm tired of getting honked at for not moving when the light turns green

 

[90mustangGT]

Probably the clutch cable issue. Does it have a factory quadrant or aftermarket? If aftermarket what kind? You should be able to freely move the shifter with the clutch 1/2 to 1" off the floor.

 

[AeFox88]

I believe it's stock. And yes, 99% of the time, I can move the shifter freely. Except to reverse, t-5s hate reverse.

I'm starting to think that it has an aftermarket clutch. The pedal isn't necessarily stiff, but it takes a little bit of force to push in. Might be a light aftermarket clutch, haven't been able to check.

If it was the cable...how would I be able to check?

 

[AeFox88]

God, that was such a newbie question. The clutch doesn't engage high, engages right where it should. Dunno why it doesn't like first though. :- /

 

[jrichker]

Clutch adjustment
Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.


Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

 

[NIKwoaC]

Transmissions are designed to shift while the gears are spinning (car in motion) so sometimes getting it into 1st with the car sitting still can be kind of notchy. You'll develop various techniques when driving one of these cars, just because it's common to have little quirks like this. A couple things to try would be:

1. Quickly pull it back into 2nd and then push it forward into 1st. Pulling it into 2nd will realign the gears and might help you get it into 1st. (This same trick works for reverse; shifting into another gear while holding the clutch in and the car being stationary, will often realign the gears just enough to help you get it into reverse.)

2. With the car in neutral, release the clutch then push it back in, then retry 1st. Releasing the clutch with the trans in neutral will spin the input shaft, and once again, may help realign the gears to make it easy to go into 1st.

Like I said above, it is common for 1st to be kind of notchy when the car is sitting still. If you're having very serious issues, there may be a mechanical issue, otherwise just chalk it up to owning a Fox. I just make it a habit to already be in 1st when the light turns green, clutch pushed in and ready to go.

 

[TOOLOW91]

just to touch on another technique since you guys are mentioning some , once you get the problem with first sorted out , for reverse all you need to do is go into first and then reverse and it goes in for me every time on any fox I've driven without any grinding at all

 

[AeFox88]

Thanks for the responses Jrich and Nik.

It's a stock cable/quadrant, and there's really no give to it. Engages where it should, don't think it's that, although I am now thinking about replacing that stuff just to be safe.

Nik, I think you're right. It's quirky, that's the word. I've noticed that when I shift in to say, 5th, then reverse, shifting up/down to both gears is a lot smoother than just going straight in to it. When 1st gives me trouble, that's what I'll do.

Guess my car has it's own preferences.

 

[FourEyed]

To avoid grinding reverse, slide the shifter into fifth gear instead, then reverse.
Its much easier to do than going to first-rev.
Its just, up and down... no grinding..ever.