Finally got some CLEAN runs in at the track!
- Thread starter NIKwoaC
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MY 85 GT
10 Year Member
I guess my question isnt valid..How come i went an 8.5 in the 1/8 had an 1.88 60ft ran a 13.3 @ 103 mph why was my top end low...Is it weight?...is it because my timing is set low....Meth flooding on top end..Just curious because im running what you are and probably can run better i have traction....I didnt even take air out of the Mickey thomspon ET street drag radials i was running...My car does weigh 3778 lbs is that a factor?
Congrats Nik, those are some petty solid runs. Now fix the traction issues, and then it will be time for somemore extra piping to feed that engine.(Turbo)
I was considering a power adder until last night. Now, I want bottom 12s out of the car without a power adder or even so much as lifting the intake manifold. Once I get there, I'll move on to something bigger.
D'oh, you should have asked me that before lunch.
I had the timeslips with me this morning, but I took them home on my lunch break. I'll try to remember to look at them and answer your question tonight.Yea, haha, I wasn't quite sure what your question was before. You worded it more like a statement. Like 90lxcoupe said, I think it has more to do with the whole power/weight ratio thing.
Hey, what do you guys know about Race Star Industries? They offer 17" junk for many magnitudes less dough than Weld or Billet Specialties.
I normally use a HP calculator that's based on 1/4 mile trap speed 'cause that's more idiot-proof than the ET, but a HP calculator that's based on 1/8 mile trap speed is usually the most accurate 'cause it's less influenced by aerodynamics.
With your engine combo you'll easily trap over 110 at the 1/4 next time.
Kdubslugga
Active Member
Calculating horsepower from MPH and weight is much more accurate IMO than a chassis dyno.
MY 85 GT
10 Year Member
He might be making more hp then me.
..I dont think im developing it on top end...My 1/8 and 330 on my slips are compared to 12.3 can that i ran againt.... I seem to be losing it a little after the 1/8 mile..I am supercharged i should be pulling better on top not on bottom..Im thinking my timing is to conservative..Im running 21 degrees total Locked...and running a stage two snow performance water injection kit...From which i was told by the supplier he is making me run rich...so i made some adjustments on the control box and i will play with timing...I think i should be in the 12's i ran a 1.88 60ft on drag radials at 29 psi and i did spin a little....So I should gain not making it as rich, i should gain ET and mph no?
Like 90lxcoupe says below, it's actually a fairly accurate method. It takes exactly "W" amount of power to accelerate an object of "X" mass from a standstill to a final speed of "Y" over a distance of "Z". Basic physics. The only problem is, it typically assumes near perfect driving and traction, so it can be off +/- a little. Keep in mind it's basically how a chassis dyno works, the drum is a set mass and the car applies power to accelerate the drum and the computer measures how quickly it does that.
Yep.
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
****, you're going to pick up some good power from where you're currently at. 330 at the wheel? That might be stretching what you're currently at a bit. I'm going from judgment not math here. I know what my old car ran with 311(dyno)-320 rwhp (depending on what that cold-air intake picked up). It went 112.9 mph with 3150 lbs race weight and 4.10 gears. Are you making more power than I did and only going 110? Probably not. Same power with the extra weight? Sounds pretty close. I'd definitely say you're running at least 300rwhp, which to me has already proven your point. FWIW, I went 110mph the first time at the track with the AFR165/FTI cam/ported cobra intake combo. I went 12.9 though
Mr. Rustypwnz
Advanced Member
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