First generation mustang Daily Driver

la89

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Sep 28, 2011
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Hello, I am interested in making a 1st generation mustang my DD, a 70 to be specific. i know this sort of question has been asked alot but i was wondering how will it serve me as a daily driver.

I understand Safety and Reliability are the biggest issues. Safety is pretty much self explanatory, but was wondering if someone could elaborate on reliability issues.

I keep hearing about how being "handy" with a wrench makes 1st gens easy daily drivers, but what exactly does that mean? I dont know how to do anything with a car besides changing oil.

Could someone give me some examples of the reoccurring problems im likely to have? And am i likely to notice these problems before they happen or will i just walk out one day and the car not work?

I live in LA and have found some decent rust free 1st gens, however im a little worried about this "handy with a wrench" terminology, cause i am NOT handy with one...

Any help is greatly appreciated
Here's a link to the one im thinking about

1970 Ford Mustang, $12,600 - Cars.com
 
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i know this sounds idiotic, but what exactly do u mean by basic tune up?

i dont know what it means besides "taking a car in for a tune up", but im not sure what that tune up entails
 
For reliability - Ditch the points ignition, convert to Pertonix, you'll discover this on your own the more your brush up, but I add this for emphasis.

Driving manners - A good set of tires can't be overstated. I personally run Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's @ 215/65/R15
Great all around traction & good wear, plus I like me some raised white letters.

You have all sorts of daily driver variables to consider, and these rack up the price tag considerably. A nice AC & power steering setup is a great thing in a classic car, they can be added but it's nice to have these creature comforts in place if that's important to you. I drive mine daily without AC, No power steering, drums on all corners. Works great if you can tough out the heat!

When you purchase said car, spend $20 and get the factory shop manual on CD, will cover most mishaps you'll encounter.
 
i know this sounds idiotic, but what exactly do u mean by basic tune up?

i dont know what it means besides "taking a car in for a tune up", but im not sure what that tune up entails

Getting your carburetor in a happy A/F mixture with a proper idle, ensuring ignition is working well (good plugs, wires, points before you get tired of them)
 
For reliability - Ditch the points ignition, convert to Pertonix, you'll discover this on your own the more your brush up, but I add this for emphasis.

Driving manners - A good set of tires can't be overstated. I personally run Firestone Firehawk Indy 500's @ 215/65/R15
Great all around traction & good wear, plus I like me some raised white letters.

You have all sorts of daily driver variables to consider, and these rack up the price tag considerably. A nice AC & power steering setup is a great thing in a classic car, they can be added but it's nice to have these creature comforts in place if that's important to you. I drive mine daily without AC, No power steering, drums on all corners. Works great if you can tough out the heat!

When you purchase said car, spend $20 and get the factory shop manual on CD, will cover most mishaps you'll encounter.


Has your car broken down alot vs. a newer car?
 
If you can change oil, you're capable of maybe 90% of the maintenance these cars require. The factory service manual was written to make most of what you'd do a no-brainer follow-the-numbers deal. With proper routine maintenance, these cars are about as reliable as modern cars.
 
Short of me not paying attention to the gas level (gauge not working) It's never left me stranded. I've driven it 5 days a week for the last 6 years.
I did go with electronic ignition, kept my plugs clean, kept my carburetor in check (you'll need to read into these further) I elected to put in a new motor a few years back, but the old one really just needed re-ringed.

To compare, I've experienced exponentially less trouble than most people I know have with newer cars. I chalk this up to an electronics overload though! Too many sensors are bad for your reliability odds, just another thing that can go wrong & wreak havoc on your computer.
I did my homework & didn't skimp out on cheap parts in my engine build though
 
Basic tune up to me is plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, pcv valve, air filter (usually clean enough) and as mentioned points/condenser unless you install one of the electronic conversions available - petronix, Crane, MSD, etc. that replaces the points/condenser and removes that wear/maintenance item. Once those are all fresh you should check them every ~20K mi.

Most of my breakdowns were related to poor fixes by the PO, loose wire connectors, poor ground, loose bolts, battery corrosion on terminals, headlight switch gone bad, etc. 75% of your problems are electrical so a good tester or $5 test light helps a lot and learning how to trouble shoot and diagnose is the biggest plus to learn. These cars are 40+yrs. old and the electricals were sufficient at best when new, as they age the wires corrode, connections loosen, etc. The reason I like these old cars is that all you need is air, spark and fuel and they will run, no computers telling them not to run for some idiotic reason. As long as there's not a plastic bag over your carb. you have air, you can take the filter off and see fuel squirting into the intake = you have fuel, that leaves spark or electricity at all necessary connections.

Common electical issues that stop a lot of classics drivers are - dead or discharged battery = cause could be old battery, bad battery, bad voltage regulator, bad alt., bad/corroded battery cables, other start/charge cables, bad solenoid, worn out starter. The nice thing is that most every parts store will test your alt. or battery or starter for FREE if you bring it in. I like to take it off and bring them in that way I eliminate that as a cause of the problem. A VR or solenoid is ~$15 and starters/alt. are <$40, try that with a new car...

Unless you have the money to take the car to a trusted mech. I suggest you learn quickly how to maintain a mechanical (not computerized) car, it is becoming a lost art. See if there is an automotive class you can take at a local community college.
Jon
 
I have '67 mustang as a DD, I carry a toolbox in the trunk with just about everything I need to fix any minor problem. My mustang a broken down quite a few times, much more than any other car I have.

I would say the most common break downs with old mustangs is:
Overheating
Fuel system
Ignition system
Electronics (bad wires etc.)
Brakes
AND Running out of gas :)

If I were you I would have a new car as a backup and a friend that can pick you up or tow you home.
 
I wouldn't, mine is my only car (if you don't count the wife's Crown Vic)
I would advise, however, that you take your time, read until your eyes bleed, begin your search objectively for what you want, and don't be afraid to pass on a few cars until you find one that is right for you

*edit*
To be fair I was pretty well mechanically inclined when I bought my 68, I can handle a catastrophe in a few hours
 
I bought my '68 about 10 years ago from a 93 year old lady who bought it new. It was her only car. I drove it as a semi-daily driver ( about three times a week to work and school) for a year before I tore it apart. I never had ANYTHING go wrong with it. Not once did it even threaten to leave me stranded. It had points and a stock 2 barrel carb and ran wonderfully. The brakes were a bit iffy, but did fine. The steering wasn't exactly new-car like and the seatbelts weren't exactly user-freindly. But you know what? It made a great daily driver. I drove it to work, the store, my classes, on errands and anywhere else I needed to go. It got great mileage (20+ mpg) and was fun to drive. Ask yourself this: can I learn to do simple maintenance? ( on older cars it's ALL simple). Can I compensate for lesser handling by allowing more room in traffic and not getting into bad situations? Do I really love the car? If so, then you can do it and enjoy it. If a 93 year old woman can do it, so can you.
 
Considering my lack of knowledge would you guys advise against a 1st gen purchase? This would be my only car.

Read this again:

Most of my breakdowns were related to poor fixes by the PO, loose wire connectors, poor ground, loose bolts, battery corrosion on terminals, headlight switch gone bad, etc. 75% of your problems are electrical so a good tester or $5 test light helps a lot and learning how to trouble shoot and diagnose is the biggest plus to learn.

Lack of proper maintenance by prior owners is the #1 problem with these, or really any, older car. People tend to only do something when it breaks. If you lubricate door hinges once a year, they'll probably never wear out. Do nothing for a few years, and they creak, squeak, and rattle.

The manual has a maintenance schedule in it. Not difficult or hard to understand, whatever car you get assume NONE of it has been done, so do it all at the beginning.

If you can log on to a computer, and find your way to this forum, you've already done something as technical as any normal maintenance.
 
I had a '71 Olds Cutlass that was in pristine condition in LA, and ended up selling it. In addition to the age of the car, I think you have to consider where and how you're driving it. LA isn't normal driving, it's war. I wasn't concerned about safety of the car (I didn't have kids then), and I drove two hours a day in stop and go LA traffic - which beats the hell out of a car. I ended up having to replace the front drums twice in 6 months. I had to rebuild the master. I bought the parts for front discs, then ended up just selling the car. I sold it, not because of the maintenance, but because I felt like it wasn't fair to the car. I loved my Cutlass.

Point is - if you want an old classic, and plan on driving it in LA, I would make sure it has a modern brake and cooling system. If your drives are longer (or typical LA), and it doesn't have some of these my modern systems, then you need to plan on upkeeping them regularly.

I don't think 40 year old stock cars were built for the rigors of today's bigger city driving.