Putting emblems on aftermarket hood? Can?

zombiebrew

zombiebrew

New Member
Sep 27, 2011
29
0
1
Seattle
#1
Despite the years of handing my dad wrenches I never quite got the bug. I could never tell you what a 302 was or what year a car was just by looking. So when I bought my 66 coupe I didn’t notice anything out of the ordinary…..until now! So it seems obvious now but two weeks ago I thought everything looked stock.

So I want to reinstall a lot of the emblems that were taken off. Mainly the quarter panel (scoop like) ones, the running horse, rocker panel molding and…….the FORD hood emblem and chrome piece.

Can the F O R D and chrome edge be put on the aftermarket hood with the 3” cowl?

Here’s the hood. Still no pictures of my car. Hopefully tonight.

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/images/Fiberglass/fs-m301.jpg
 

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#2
You can do anything you want with a little imagination. What I would try to do is find a template for the original hood (or find an original hood and make my own template) and just line it up where you want it on your new hood and drill out the holes.....OR you can grind off the pegs and glue them to the hood. I personally don't see the need in putting it on the front, but its your car man, do what you want.
 
#3
I agree, I'd use foam trim tape, like the stick-on MUSTANG letters. Just snap the pins off.

The moulding would be tricky- it has to fit over the edge of the hood, which might require grinding the underside thinner to fit.

Your car may never have had the quarter chrome. If it was a GT, or came from the factory with the Tiffany stripe, there was no chrome. I'd rather have the stripe.
 
#4
In the one of the many parts boxes i have i found a rusted one of these.

C6ZZ-65290A76/7 MUSTANG SCOTT DRAKE 1/4 PANEL ORNAMENT CONCOURS PAIR 1966

I think when the car was repainted the guy took them off and filled in the holes. I'm going to check the back to see if i can just drill them out again.

I googled a couple of pictures and i think that you're right about the hood being too thick. No one with that hood had the top chrome piece on it. I'm not sure anybody has the F O R D emblems on one. I have yet to see one. I still think i want to order the F O R D emblems and try it anyway. I just think it looks slick.
 
#6
I looked closer and confirmed my suspicions that it has a different "apron?". Mine has this one.

P7240014.jpg


It also has the original valence panel painted for the car so i could swap them no problem. Is there any functional purpose to using the aftermarket one or is it purely astetic? I think i like the original apron better because there is no grill for the opening so you're staring at radiator and metal beams. Plus the top lip is catching on a bold and making the inside of the opening look uneven.
 
#9
That's what i was thinking! Trying to look like the shelby. But mine's a notch back. I heard that the opening is supposed to cool off disk breaks? Anything on that? I still have drums so that doesn't matter.....yet!
 
#10
zombiebrew said:
That's what i was thinking! Trying to look like the shelby. But mine's a notch back. I heard that the opening is supposed to cool off disk breaks? Anything on that? I still have drums so that doesn't matter.....yet!
Click to expand...

No, the two round holes you don't have were for the brake ducts.

As for ducting air to the brakes, there were factory-installed ducts to cool the front and rear drum brakes on Corvettes. 66-70 Shelbys had cooling ducts to the rear drums.

You may not need disc brakes. Do you race the car? Do you drive like a maniac? (like me) Do you live in the mountains? If you answer no to all of these, then you don't need disc brakes.
 
#12
zombiebrew said:
The only thing pushing me for disk breaks is that i'm going to put a supercharger in it and my wife drives it as well. Not that i don't trust her.......but i dont' trust her.
Click to expand...

Dude....from what i read in your first post, that whole never getting the knack for mechanics bit, you might want to get the knack of it before you undertake building a blown small block to put in a car that already gets squirley when you throw 300 horses at it...

IMO...the disc brakes are a must for a daily driver...and a conversion to the dual bowl setup while you're at it. The car stops so much better, one of the best upgrades you can do.

Back on that supercharger....have you ever ridden in an old mustang with over 400 horses? It will scare the crap out of you. You can build up a 302 to pump out 400 horses without a supercharger easily. If you are wanting some 600 horsepower beast then you will have to rethink your rear-end, cooling system, suspension, fuel system, and life insurance policy.
 
#13
Robbz28,

I agree with your assesment. The car already has cold air intake. I'm going to check on the muffler situation tonight. What is the best bet for my car? It's got the 87 ford 302, T5 transmission, and brand new rear end (8.8 i think?). It also has an upgraded suspension. The guy i bought it from was moving it towards a street racer.

I've been told the easy 3 things are

-cold air intake
-exaust
-headers

Now roughly how much HP will this give me? I read that my 5.0 was rated for 225 (thanks wiki).

That being said if i look under the car and find out that my exaust is brand new performance and the headers are new long tubes then what next?
 
#14
You could spend 2500 bucks and stick a supercharger on your car and give it aroudn 350 horses as is, with some tuning of course and premium gasoline....but the problem is your platform. You need some new heads, intake, and a camshaft all working in harmony to give you the proper airflow through your engine to create maximum horsepower. If you invested in some ford X heads (or Z heads) and a matching camshaft, port matched everything up....provided your bottom end is sound you can get 350 horses out of your engine and spin the wheels until they pop on cheap gas. On a carbureted car I am a big believer in a wide open air intake (14 x 3"), unless you have a scoop....i think the modular fit all cold air systems are a joke....mainly because of that cotton gauze filter they put on it. They do outflow a paper filter....when dry, you put that oil on them that makes them actually filter the dirt and their flow drops off to that of a paper filter or sometimes worse.
Any forced air induction system is going to cause stress and strain on a stock bottom end...you would probably end up blowing out a ring or a head gasket in the first week of running it if you didn't build the bottom end properly. Forced induction also leaves your engine with no vaccum, so you have to get hydraulic boosted brakes instead of vaccum boosted....lots of issues to tackle.
What kind of suspension upgrades have been done?
What kind of transmission is in the car?
What kind of rear end is in the car?
We are all here to help you get what you want out of your car....with that being said, what exactly do you want to do with your car? How much do you plan on driving it? How far? Going to the track with it?
 
#15
I'll try to track down exactly what mods has been done. I know it has a T-5 transmission (it's a 5 speed manual). I was told what rear end it was but it escapes me now I think he said 8 inch but for some reason 8.8 is what i'm thinking?

I didn't know about the brake issue. interesting.

I read an article today that said the stock cam was actually pretty decent and replacing it to a bigger cam could actualy slow you down unless you were going to be racing it and really pushing the RPMs. That's why i was looking at other ways to boost HP.

I'm not driving it very often and i don't see myself ever taking it to the track it's more just something to give that extra badass bump when i don't feel like stopping for a yellow light. I hope that doesn't sound crazy.

Maybe i'll start with the disk brakes first. Take a look at new headers and muffler (if i don't already have decent ones). And i'll keep my eye on supercharger threads to make sure i have all the base mods done first.

Building from the bottom up sounds like good advice. Maybe i'll find that exaust and headers do enough and i don't need that scary supercharger in the end......but i probably will someday!
 
#16
zombiebrew said:
I'll try to track down exactly what mods has been done. I know it has a T-5 transmission (it's a 5 speed manual). I was told what rear end it was but it escapes me now I think he said 8 inch but for some reason 8.8 is what i'm thinking?

I didn't know about the brake issue. interesting.

I read an article today that said the stock cam was actually pretty decent and replacing it to a bigger cam could actualy slow you down unless you were going to be racing it and really pushing the RPMs. That's why i was looking at other ways to boost HP.

I'm not driving it very often and i don't see myself ever taking it to the track it's more just something to give that extra badass bump when i don't feel like stopping for a yellow light. I hope that doesn't sound crazy.

Maybe i'll start with the disk brakes first. Take a look at new headers and muffler (if i don't already have decent ones). And i'll keep my eye on supercharger threads to make sure i have all the base mods done first.

Building from the bottom up sounds like good advice. Maybe i'll find that exaust and headers do enough and i don't need that scary supercharger in the end......but i probably will someday!
Click to expand...
A high-lift long-duration cam will actually degrade supercharger performance.

But that's a lotta cash and work.

Fella near here did this to a 67 289 2V-

Performer RPM intake
600 cfm carb
289HP air cleaner
Stock distributor curved to BOSS 302 specs
Stock heads port-matched to 289HP manifolds 289/302 Cylinder Head Port Matching
C9OZ-6250-C hydraulic cam

That's it.

When assembled, it ras run-in on a dyno, produced 323.5 hp @ 5300 rpm. You could scare the wife with that, you betcha, and save a few grand.

Oh, and an engine like that puts you in the 'maniac' category, and you will need front discs.
 
#17
+1 to what 2+2 just said...there is a lot you can do to stock components and have your engine really produce some serious horses. Porting and polishing those stock heads is a great horsepower builder, then getting a nice 285d 510 lift cam or something in that area. Port match a 4bbl intake, put some 9.5:1 compression forged pistons in it and you will have a stout little engine. You should be able to build all that for the cost of a supercharger, and have a way more streetable ride.
 
#18
Okay i like all these ideas but "Port match a 4bbl intake"? I actually have an 87 5.0L not the original 289. So it's EFI. With that being said a new cam will increase HP without the supercharger but if i were to put a supercharger on it down the road it would hinder the performance?

I like the idea of getting a better intake. That seems easy enough. The one i have is in this picture

HowStuffWorks "1987 Ford Mustang Engines and Acceleration"

Here's a good one too. This is exactly it....except in a 66 coupe body.

1987 Ford Mustang GT LX

"Porting and polishing those stock heads" What does this mean?
 
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