Manual Brake Installation Tech Question

[revhead347]

OK, so I finally got around to installing manual brakes on the car, and I ran across something I don't quite understand. There is an air switch that allows air to flow into an air hose when the brake pedal is released. Now, I would have thought this hose would go to the brake booster in order to raise the pressure on the pedal side of the diaphragm, but it doesn't. Instead it goes to this reservoir thingy in the fender, which is in turn attached to the vacuum tree.

Does anyone know this system works, and why you would want air to flow to the vacuum system when the brakes are depressed? I assume I don't need this canister now since I don't have a brake booster anymore.

Kurt

 

[str8stang036]

Not sure about your situation, but I don't have that hose connected to the valve above the brake pedal. I removed all the vacuum things inside the fenders. So far no problems and brakes work well.

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, I know I should be able to remove it, it's more of a point of interest to me to know how it works.

Kurt

 

[SQUEEZE&STROKE]

It is for the cruise control.

 

[4Jenna]

Yup cruise control related, ripped all that out last month.

Be ready for fun when you drill thru the brake pedal lever for the new mounting location. That pedal is like hardend steel thats a 1/2" thick haha
I went thru 3 drill bits and had a sore arm the next morning.

Also if you havent already done it, drill it high as it helps with the feel of the brakes. I put mine exactly where AEROSPACE said per directions (way above where the stock point is) and my pedal feel is great, espeically for a manual setup!

Good Luck

Chris

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, thanks for the advice. I actually already drilled the pedal and mounted it and all that stuff. I didn't have much trouble with the drilling, I just used a **** ton of oil to lubricate. Didn't bust any bits. I have the brake lines in and bled the system. Haven't decided how I'm going to hook up the stop light switch yet. Still working on that one. If it's cruise control, I'll figure out a way to make it work.

Kurt

 

[str8stang036]

What are the benefits of installing manual brakes?

 

[revhead347]

Just kind of a necessity with some engines. My engine only generates 7.8" of vacuum at idle so the power brakes are real inconsistent, even with 2 vacuum reservoirs on it. I've managed for the last 8 years with the sketchy power brakes, but I thought it time to do the upgrade. I'm interested to know how they will work with the ABS.

Kurt

 

[str8stang036]

Good thing to know, I only get about 10" of vacuum.

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, the power brakes need about 16" of vacuum to work properly, or so they say.

Kurt

 

[Silvertooth]

I did a search and found your post.I know it is old,but............I was going to start a new thread but thought I would see any of you guys are still around to answer this for me.

How are the manual brakes on the street? My wife might be driving my car some too.

I am installing a ls1 and t56 in my 95 and for the clutch master it would make life a lot easier if I could go with a manual brake set up(room to mount it).But I do want it to be safe. Thanks in advance.

 

[revhead347]

I'm still here. Been running the manual brakes for almost 3 years now. I first used them with stock brakes, and they were worthless. I immediately had to upgrade to the Aerospace brake kit to make it stop. I honestly don't recommend it if your wife has to drive the car. You really have to press on that pedal. I was able to rig up a stoplight switch from a mid 80s Chevy which is only like $3. I also should probably put an adjustable proportioning valve on the car, because the Aerospace calipers do not need a lot of volume, and they lock hard long before the rear brakes really start to grab.

If you are going to run an LS1, keep in mind that engine is very compact, and I don't think there will be a lot of problems finding space. If you need some more firewall space, then I would recommend converting the car over to hydroboost brakes from a 96-98. The hydroboost system is longer and narrower, so it takes up a lot less firewall real estate. If I had to do it again, that's the route I would go. Someone makes an entire conversion kit for the old Mustang now. I actually think Mustang Parts Specialties does it with parts they strip out of wrecked Mustangs. You will have to modify the hoses a little bit to make them work with an LS1 power steering pump, but I don't think it's that big of a deal. So long as you have a hose shop in your area, it shouldn't be an issue.

Kurt

 

[nmcgrawj]

Yep....seems like the ls1 takes up less space than a 5.0 does. Especially with their intake design.

 

[Silvertooth]

Kurt,Thanks for the reply.Sorry to be so long to reply back.I did look at my freinds 2003 cobra at work.The hydra boost is kind of big too.
I hooked the stock booster back up.I am trying to see if I can find a place to put the clutch master.If I can not,I measured the t56 and a 700r4 (I have one in my shop) they are the same length .If I can not get the master to work. I will just go ahead and install the 700r4.Thanks again for your input.Carl

 

[revhead347]

I totally forgot about the clutch slave cylinder. That's kind of the point of the hyroboost. While it is bigger, it takes up less firewall space.

Kurt