Aluminum Explorer Motor (and other questions)

[sneaky98gt]

If you haven't already heard, the motor in my car went boom a week or so ago. After just ball-parking it, I figured $1000+ just to fix it, and that would be with all stock parts and leave me exactly where I was at before (power wise). I figure PI heads without the bump in compression would be nice, so I've started looking around for junkyard PI motors. I'm either going to put in a '03-'05 Crown Vic (non P71)/Town Car/Grand Marquis PI motor, or a '02-'05 Explorer motor. I'd like to have the Explorer motor on account of the aluminum block (almost 100 pound weight savings), but they are tending to be more expensive.

I've still got a couple more places to call, but what I've found so far:

A. 2004 Grand Marquis motor, (Not sure what it comes with), but it says complete and running. 30k miles, $700. 90 day warranty.

B. 2003 Town Car motor, complete with all accessories. 55k miles. $800. 90 day warranty.

C. 2004 Explorer motor, remanufactured. $1200. 90 day warranty


Question 1:
Which of those sounds like the best idea? Is the extra $100 and 25k miles on Option B worth having all the extra accesories? Would you think the reman Explorer motor is good to go? Makes me wonder why it has been remanufactured....but I don't know if that really makes a difference.


Question 2:
How can I identify any of these motors? AFAIK, they are all out of the vehicle and I would like some way to positively identify the motor, such as a casting number or something. I'm especially concerned about this when it comes to the Explorer motor. I want to know that I definitely am looking at an aluminum block.

 

[nickmckinney]

A or C IMHO, the Explorer block will have squares cast into the valley beneath the intake.

 

[apats77]

Cant beat that 90 day warranty!

have you listened to any of these motors or are they all already out of their cars?

 

[sneaky98gt]

Cant beat that 90 day warranty!

have you listened to any of these motors or are they all already out of their cars?

Yea, that warranty is definitely worth a little peace of mind. If it will run for 90 days, then there's probably nothing wrong with it.

I actually haven't been and seen any of these motors in person. I'm busy with school early this week, but I plan to go and check out some of these motors in person later this week, as all three are only a short drive away. Every motor I've called about so far was already out of the car.

 

[Gearbanger 101]

Nothing wrong with knocking 70lbs off the nose. I say grab the Explorer mill and don't look back.

 

[N8Dogg98]

:Word:

 

[tank_567]

Nothing wrong with knocking 70lbs off the nose. I say grab the Explorer mill and don't look back.

+1, damn Will i didnt know about the engine, sucks. Looks like you and I are in the same shoes.. Are you still going to the dyno day to a hang out?

 

[1987stangman]

Will, your idea for option A sounds like a solid choice. The Reman engine if it is alum sounds good too if you knew good parts and care were used to reman it as we all know what some companies version of reman is.

I was in a similar situation Last Jan with the exception that my reason for getting rid of the stock NPI engine was because i was sick of seeing puffs of smoke out the back after every red light and doing valve seals with the engine in the car was not something I wanted to do and was planning a PI swap anyway (motor was all stock at 160K). There is a local Ford only premium recycler local here in Jax that supplied me with a 60K 04' engine from a Crown Victoria which I paid 700.00 for with verified miles, compession numbers and 90 day warranty and came complete with everything right down to the COPS and harness, which I did not use. So for you option A is a great price with a decent warranty.

With that said, I did have an issue with the engine just recently but for WIW I should have addressed the issue before I droped it in my car. The BANK2 chain guide broke and the engine skipped time by a tooth which took me some time to figure out because when I swapped the front cover to my NPI cover on the engine stand I inspected the timming system and every thing looked perfect. I ended up buying all new timming stuff and installing it anyway so if I were you i would replace it all now reg. of how many miles the motor may have.

 

[BurningRubber]

I'd be very cautious of a reman motor as mentioned previously. I'd want to know what parts were used and how to-spec it was put together.

 

[sneaky98gt]

+1, damn Will i didnt know about the engine, sucks. Looks like you and I are in the same shoes.. Are you still going to the dyno day to a hang out?

Yea, it happened 2 Sundays ago at Fayetteville. A little detonation and boom went the dynamite. It will be coming to PCM for a tune when I get it all back together. Matter of fact, I'm probably going to swing up that way to talk to them about tuning it tomorrow afternoon during my junkyard diving hoopla.

I'm still definitely going to the dyno day. I want to see Joe crack the 400 rwhp mark on his Bullitt. There's still a VERY remote chance that I'll have my car back together in time for the dyno day. Slim, but if I find a motor this week, get the old one out this weekend, get the new one in next weekend, and get some miles on it/tune it the following week, it would be ready by the 29th. Very doubtful, though.

Will, your idea for option A sounds like a solid choice. The Reman engine if it is alum sounds good too if you knew good parts and care were used to reman it as we all know what some companies version of reman is.

I was in a similar situation Last Jan with the exception that my reason for getting rid of the stock NPI engine was because i was sick of seeing puffs of smoke out the back after every red light and doing valve seals with the engine in the car was not something I wanted to do and was planning a PI swap anyway (motor was all stock at 160K). There is a local Ford only premium recycler local here in Jax that supplied me with a 60K 04' engine from a Crown Victoria which I paid 700.00 for with verified miles, compession numbers and 90 day warranty and came complete with everything right down to the COPS and harness, which I did not use. So for you option A is a great price with a decent warranty.

With that said, I did have an issue with the engine just recently but for WIW I should have addressed the issue before I droped it in my car. The BANK2 chain guide broke and the engine skipped time by a tooth which took me some time to figure out because when I swapped the front cover to my NPI cover on the engine stand I inspected the timming system and every thing looked perfect. I ended up buying all new timming stuff and installing it anyway so if I were you i would replace it all now reg. of how many miles the motor may have.

Yea, I put all new timing chains/arms/guides when I did my cam swap a few weeks ago. So I'll be putting them on the new engine for sure.


I'm going down tomorrow to look at the aluminum Explorer motor and talk to them about it. May also ride out to see the Option A motor tomorrow as well, but I suspect I'm going to run out of time tomorrow evening.

 

[sneaky98gt]

I'd be very cautious of a reman motor as mentioned previously. I'd want to know what parts were used and how to-spec it was put together.

Yea, that's what worries me. I have absolutely no way to know what parts were used and how well it was put together.

 

[sneaky98gt]

Heading out to look at option C right now. Might ride out to look at option A as well. Option B is off the table as they only sell to dealers, mechanics, etc.

I'll be taking my camera along, so I'll share what I find when I get back.

 

[sneaky98gt]

The Explorer motor looked to be in good shape, but they have no idea how many miles is on it. Could be 20,000, or could be 200,000. So I probably won't be paying $500+ extra for a motor that I don't know the mileage of.

Went to look at Option C today. Motor was in terrible shape. The car had been sitting in that spot for at least 5 years; front of the car was sitting on the oil pan; plants were growing through the motor; all of the wires/wiring harness were cut off. No thanks.

BUT, there was another car 2 cars down that has a very promising prospect. It was a 2001 Mercury Grand Marquis. 38,000 miles, still had air in all 4 tires, motor was completely untouched, and relatively clean looking. And the price is right, as well. Just need to be sure it is a PI motor. Here's a few pics.












Tag on driver side valve cover.




The vin is 2MEFM74W11X620377, which does check out to be an '01 Grand Marquis. And the 01 Grand Marquis are supposed to have the PI motors.

Can any confirm this?

 

[nickmckinney]

Its a PI, looks like a good score.

 

[sneaky98gt]

That's what I was thinking. $600 for a 38k mile PI motor that looks like that sounds like a good deal to me.

Now the next question. Leave my current ignition system? Or go to the COPs that come with that motor?

 

[trombonedemon]

That's what I was thinking. $600 for a 38k mile PI motor that looks like that sounds like a good deal to me.

Now the next question. Leave my current ignition system? Or go to the COPs that come with that motor?

Would you consider COP's an upgrade, the coil-on-plug does look cleaner, my .02.

 

[usaf_branham]

cop's look cleaner imo.

 

[N8Dogg98]

COP's all the way. 98Cobra281 did it and it looks much cleaner IMO

 

[Gearbanger 101]

I'd hold out for another Explorer engine if given the choice. Even if you've got to drive a couple of hours to pick it up, it's worth it. People pay near $1,000 or more to install tubular K-members under their cars just to knock off the same weight from the front end, that you'd be losing for free with the aluminum block in the Explorer.

There are a boat load of them here, for about the same price you were looking at within a couple of hundred miles of you.
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[SRT Handz]

Stick with the Spark Plugs. You will be much happier when a plug fails opposed to a coil. Coils are expensive.