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Well, there is alot of different routes to get to where you/I want to be at the end so its tough to say 100% what I will do. I will look at the paint and swirls/scratches and go from there what needs to be done. This is the typical routine:
Presoak wheels/tires and exhaust with all purpose cleaner, 2 bucket wash top down, detail spray and drying towel dry. After that its rubber and plastic dressing time along with metal polish and glass cleaner.
If I need to polish/wax I will do this process (Note: it really all depends on what steps are needed, but this is my general stuff I do)
Presoak just like previous, 2 bucket wash, detail spray and drying towel drying, 50/50 ratio spray solution of IPA and distilled water and wipe off with clean microfiber, another 2 bucket wash if deemed necessary (if not proceed), clay bar with a different clean microfiber and detail spray then wipe clean, various levels of polish that need to be applied by a porter cable (Wish I had a flex
), wipe clean after each panel, brilliant glaze then remove with yet another microfiber, then apply premium carnuba paste wax and let it cure then remove with another clean microfiber. Clean painted wheels throughly and apply glaze to them and remove, then coat them with a buttery wax and remove.
I go much further than alot of people probably go and I stil have a ways to go before I am satisfied with my results.
My BIGGEST piece of advice to anyone who will listen is that there is simple things to do to help keep your paint looking good and you don't need everything. 2 bucket wash is crucial and GOOD microfibers as well. If you buy 1 product from the quality stuff then make it microfiber. No, mother's is NOT a good brand.
Personally I have used Adam's and it is the first real detailing product I used and I fell in love right away. Pick up some of their SVRT and you will see why. That product is like nothing else out there simply put. I'll stop plugging stuff here but if you want to know more I'd be happy to share.
Presoak wheels/tires and exhaust with all purpose cleaner, 2 bucket wash top down, detail spray and drying towel dry. After that its rubber and plastic dressing time along with metal polish and glass cleaner.
If I need to polish/wax I will do this process (Note: it really all depends on what steps are needed, but this is my general stuff I do)
Presoak just like previous, 2 bucket wash, detail spray and drying towel drying, 50/50 ratio spray solution of IPA and distilled water and wipe off with clean microfiber, another 2 bucket wash if deemed necessary (if not proceed), clay bar with a different clean microfiber and detail spray then wipe clean, various levels of polish that need to be applied by a porter cable (Wish I had a flex
), wipe clean after each panel, brilliant glaze then remove with yet another microfiber, then apply premium carnuba paste wax and let it cure then remove with another clean microfiber. Clean painted wheels throughly and apply glaze to them and remove, then coat them with a buttery wax and remove. I go much further than alot of people probably go and I stil have a ways to go before I am satisfied with my results.
My BIGGEST piece of advice to anyone who will listen is that there is simple things to do to help keep your paint looking good and you don't need everything. 2 bucket wash is crucial and GOOD microfibers as well. If you buy 1 product from the quality stuff then make it microfiber. No, mother's is NOT a good brand.
Personally I have used Adam's and it is the first real detailing product I used and I fell in love right away. Pick up some of their SVRT and you will see why. That product is like nothing else out there simply put. I'll stop plugging stuff here but if you want to know more I'd be happy to share.
BurningRubber
10 Year Member
- Dec 6, 2004
- 1,865
- 24
- 58
I've been terrible in the past about paint upkeep, largely because my GT's paint was neglected when I bought it.
At this point, I'm trying to keep it where its at. The majority of it is still fine and shines well when cleaned, but there are some definite trouble spots.
I washed it today using some Turtle Wax wash, dried it, clayed it with a Meguiar's kit (and ruined 1 bar of clay with all that was picked up), then sealed it with some Meguiars wax.
I wish I'd have paid attention to this kind of stuff when I had bought the car. These threads are of great interest to me now.
At this point, I'm trying to keep it where its at. The majority of it is still fine and shines well when cleaned, but there are some definite trouble spots.
I washed it today using some Turtle Wax wash, dried it, clayed it with a Meguiar's kit (and ruined 1 bar of clay with all that was picked up), then sealed it with some Meguiars wax.
I wish I'd have paid attention to this kind of stuff when I had bought the car. These threads are of great interest to me now.
slayerripkdc
15 Year Member
txredgt.....hit it on the spot! As far as products go. There are a ton of of high quality products that you can purchase online. My personal favorite is Poorboys World. Easy to use, smell great, can be used in sun or shade and very good informational customer service! As far as basic methods go I would start out with the 2 bucket method. Purchase some high quality microfiber towels, mitts, applicators and drying towels. As far as basic products go to remove defects and to maintain your finish. Here goes.
.I would recommend a (pc) Porter cable. With a medium cut pad and a finishing pad. It will make your polishing steps much more productive and less elbow grease from doing it by hand!
.Purchase a high quality clay and clay lubricant. Spray and wipe from poorboys is very top notch!!!
.Next you will need a high quality medium abrasive polish followed by a very light polish. I like poorboys SSR2.5 followed by SSR1.
.There are TONS of great sealants and waxes on the internet. If you plan on waxing your car a couple times a month. A paste wax is fine. If you plan on doing it once every 3 months a sealant is a must.
This is a basic run down of starting out in the leveling and up keep of your finish in the detailing world.
Remember to have fun and try different products to see what YOU like. Also have lots of patience
.
.I would recommend a (pc) Porter cable. With a medium cut pad and a finishing pad. It will make your polishing steps much more productive and less elbow grease from doing it by hand!
.Purchase a high quality clay and clay lubricant. Spray and wipe from poorboys is very top notch!!!
.Next you will need a high quality medium abrasive polish followed by a very light polish. I like poorboys SSR2.5 followed by SSR1.
.There are TONS of great sealants and waxes on the internet. If you plan on waxing your car a couple times a month. A paste wax is fine. If you plan on doing it once every 3 months a sealant is a must.
This is a basic run down of starting out in the leveling and up keep of your finish in the detailing world.
Remember to have fun and try different products to see what YOU like. Also have lots of patience
.
apats77
Member
Starting with turtle wax ice car soap, top to bottom, wheels last.
Squeegeeing all windows
Then I use Armor All Extreme Tire Shine
Black Box I use step one all by hand then finish using orbital buffer to apple step 2 and remove by hand.
After this is complete I go back with the detail spray and a fresh microfiber and touch up and spots that I missed (Always in the back bumper where it says MUSTANG GT)
I leave it just the way it is over night and have very little to no spray off from the wheels.
^No tire shine
What do you guys use for plastic?
Squeegeeing all windows
Then I use Armor All Extreme Tire Shine
Black Box I use step one all by hand then finish using orbital buffer to apple step 2 and remove by hand.
After this is complete I go back with the detail spray and a fresh microfiber and touch up and spots that I missed (Always in the back bumper where it says MUSTANG GT)
I leave it just the way it is over night and have very little to no spray off from the wheels.
^No tire shine
What do you guys use for plastic?
i could type page after page regarding detailing. by no means am i a pro at it but i do enjoy doing it. one key piece of advice is to use CLEAN products : buckets, mitts, mf's, towels, etc. its so easy to marr and swirl the paint with just one small piece of debris. also, lubricity is very important. use a soap that actually stays sudsy and slick (ph balanced is a nice benefit also). OTC suggestion is meg gold class. special products : chemical guys maxi suds 2 or honeydew.
spray detailing : IMO, keep this to a minimum. there are some out there that try and wash their car this way - dont do that. a good wash with good products is the best way to effectively clean your car. there are some good products out there tho. so far my personal fav is CG extreme slick synthetic.
swirl removers, polishes, glazes, waxes.....o my, where do i start
nightfire - from the avatar pic, your car looks as tho there is plenty of gloss. what products are you using now?
spray detailing : IMO, keep this to a minimum. there are some out there that try and wash their car this way - dont do that. a good wash with good products is the best way to effectively clean your car. there are some good products out there tho. so far my personal fav is CG extreme slick synthetic.
swirl removers, polishes, glazes, waxes.....o my, where do i start
nightfire - from the avatar pic, your car looks as tho there is plenty of gloss. what products are you using now?
SRT Handz
I tripped & fell down and cut myself & got blood
My process is 100% different everytime i detail my car because the its is not dirty in the same way everytime.
None of my cars have ever been washed or waxed. I use Adams Waterless Car Wash weekly on all my cars (including windows & rims). Ultra Finish Polish as required (but Adams makes an excellent polish also). Armor All Wheel Protectant on the tires. That's it.
Stumbaugh
Member
I follow the chart that's about half way down the page:
Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides
and use Pennicle products.
Auto Detailing Facts, auto detailing Tips, How to detailing Guides, how to polish, how to wax, DIY detailing, do it yourself guides
and use Pennicle products.
No SVRT on the tires? Also, that stuff works GREAT on the plastic GT mirrors and the cowl piece. Oh and Waterless wash is some fantastic stuff
Crzyhrse
Active Member
^This is more my speed. Put a teaspoon of solution in 2 gal. of water and wipe down car with microfiber towel. Use Areospace 303 Protectant on interior. Use ultra shine Armor-All on tires and chin spoiler. The paint is swirly but I don't give a rat's ass. Wax once a year with a Mother's clay bar kit. Good enough for a 1,000 mile a year car.
SVRT works really well on the tires, but it's expensive. Though I don't consider money an object when it comes to caring for my cars, a product does have to warrant its cost, and for the most part, Adam's does that with the exception of the tires. Armor All's wheel protectant does equally well and costs considerably less. I've tried other Adam's products and have added some while dismissing others. Example: Their glass cleaner works great, but no better than the waterless wash, so I stick with that. I also use waterless on the underside and wheel wells after racing and the engine bay weekly. Needless to say, I go through a gallon of this stuff in a few months, but nothing on the market that I've found can compete with it. I left out that I use Adam's In and out Spray on the trim, honeycomb, interior, mirror housings and Engine bay. It works well and gives a shine similar to silicone. I should become a distributor for them. lol.No SVRT on the tires? Also, that stuff works GREAT on the plastic GT mirrors and the cowl piece. Oh and Waterless wash is some fantastic stuff
I will do a similar "pre-wash" to wipe down my DD's if they're so dirty the waterless isn't economical. I use bottled water because the water out here as so many minerals it's like washing your car with a stone.
I've tried Aerospace 303 and it performed as well, but does not out perform the products I already use. All my cars except for the stang have cloth interiors and the stang only requires an occasional wipe down with the products I'm already using. I was impressed by it and would recommend it to anyone though. 
I am also a big fan of ONR (Optimum No Rinse). Don't need a hose, just 2 ounces in a 2 gallon bucket of water, a grout sponge, and a good waffle weave drying towel. Wipe a panel gently with the sponge, then dry off with a towel. During the winter I washed my wife's Charger when it was full of salt and road grime using this product. I then inspected it in the sunlight and my LED light and it left no swirls behind. It's very impressive stuff!!!
Crzyhrse
Active Member
Yeah, that no-rinse stuff and water was a god send to me. At my last apartment I had a water faucet right next to my garage so it was just classic to be able to wash my car whenever. Once I bought my condo I was stumped then because their were no water faucets around. Then afew months later I just happen to see a thread on the no-rinse stuff. I'm pretty happy with it.
SVRT works really well on the tires, but it's expensive. Though I don't consider money an object when it comes to caring for my cars, a product does have to warrant its cost, and for the most part, Adam's does that with the exception of the tires. Armor All's wheel protectant does equally well and costs considerably less. I've tried other Adam's products and have added some while dismissing others. Example: Their glass cleaner works great, but no better than the waterless wash, so I stick with that. I also use waterless on the underside and wheel wells after racing and the engine bay weekly. Needless to say, I go through a gallon of this stuff in a few months, but nothing on the market that I've found can compete with it. I left out that I use Adam's In and out Spray on the trim, honeycomb, interior, mirror housings and Engine bay. It works well and gives a shine similar to silicone. I should become a distributor for them. lol.
I will do a similar "pre-wash" to wipe down my DD's if they're so dirty the waterless isn't economical. I use bottled water because the water out here as so many minerals it's like washing your car with a stone.
lol I totally understand about being an Adam's dealer.. I've pondered it myself. In and Out is another product that I'm not sure if there is anything like it out there. I know you said you didn't like SVRT on the wheels and I understand where you are coming from, you just gotta hit it twice to get what you are wanting which doesn't equal cheap. BUT if you have not tried it on your mirrors and cowl piece I suggest you get the small trial size of it and give that a shot because I know you won't be disappointed.
Oh and 1 other thing I love about Adam's for those who haven't looked them up yet... They have a 110% guarantee on ALL of their stuff and if it isn't made in the USA (besides the clay), they won't carry it!
slayerripkdc
15 Year Member
Nightfire.... it all depends on how severe the swirls are. I would recommend a nice 1-2 punch. Poorboys World sells SSR2.5 (med) swirls remover, and SSR1 (light) polish. My new favorite go to swirl removal combo is PBW Pro polish 2 followed by Pro polish. Will you be doing this by hand or by machine? Do small sections at a time and check your work frequently. I usually work in sections of 1 foot by 1 foot. Over lapping each pass in an up an down and side to side motion letting the machine move it self. Takes lots pf practice and patience. When I first got my black stang it was covered in spider webs and swirls. It took me over 15 hours to get her swirl free! Have fun with it!
My paint is pretty spotless. I claybar and wax every 3 months or so, so the paint is welltaken care of. However, their are a few minor swirls in the paint and they drive me insane. I want the surface to look like a freakin' mirror. I'll look into PBW products. Thanks.
slayerripkdc
15 Year Member
poorboysworld.com Ask for Steve! He will walk you through the steps you need. He helped me out alot when I first started especially with my business.
