It Stalls! Choke Issues?

[Mustang Jim]

Now that the colder weather is here (for some of us), I'm having a drivability issue with my 64.5.

The car idles fine, but it stalls repeatedly when I come up on the clutch in first gear or reverse. I can barely get the car to move for the first 5 minutes. Once it's warmed up, no problem.

I have an Autolite 2100 on it and I've tried repeatedly adjusting the choke and fast idle speed. Choke plate opened or closed... none of the adjustments I have made have helped. Then, the fast idle does not "kick down" after the engine has warmed up.

I want to swap the 2 barrel for an Edelbrock 4 barrel over the winter months to get a bit more power out of the engine. But, but I'm not sure if my current problem is really the choke on my 2 barrel. Before I spend the money on the new carburetor, I would like to resolve this issue now so that it is drivable over the next couple of months.

What should my next course of action be?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[robbz28]

Unless you plan on doing any other modifications to the engine besides an intake and a carb, you arent going to really gain any power adding a 4 bbl carb....just my experience. Those old 2bbls are great carbs, and super easy to rebuild....drop 30 bucks on a rebuild kit and overhaul that sucker, and if it still gives you fits then you are only out 30 bucks and not the 500 a new carb/intake combo is going to cost you. I bet you have some trash or something like that in your idle passage.

 

[Mustang Jim]

I hear you on the rebuild. I rebuilt the carb a few months back as the car sat in the garage for 2 years. The carburetor was all gummed up and I couldn't get the car moving. I'll soak in carb cleaner and rebuild it again. I've got nothing to lose.

As far as modifications go, I added a dual exhaust, pertronix ignition and 3.40:1 gears. Once it's warmed up, the acceleration isn't bad for a basically stock setup. I was hoping a 4 barrel would bump up the power a bit more. But, if there's not much of a difference, I'll hang on to the cash.

 

[chepsk8]

Have you verified the choke is closed when cold, and is fully open when warm? This is your first thing to check.

If so, is the exhaust heat tube and/or heater hose warming the choke houseing to make the bi-metal spring do it's job?

I bet this is the crux of your problems. As well, make sure the choke is properly adjusted.

Also, check for a lean condition in the carb, and weak spark. These two will also make it run horribly until it is warmed up.

 

[Mustang Jim]

Thanks chepsk8. I will check it out tonight.

I have already checked the heat riser tube. It's just pressed in place on the manifold and then attaches to the choke housing. The choke plate closes, but not all the way. There's at least a 1/2" gap. Cuold that be the issue? I have the choke adjustment control set 2 notches to the lean side. Is there any other way to adjust the choke plate?

Thanks,
Jim

 

[chepsk8]

Easilly that could be it. The choke is not closing, so it will be an ornery cold car.

The choke is adjusted by rotating the black circular body on the side of the carb. It is clamped in place by a metal ring, which is secured by three screws. Just loosen the screws and rotate the body back towards "Rich". You want to set it so the plate is just closed. tighten up the screws and start it up! it may take a try or two to get the adjustment right.