4v heads on 2v block

Has anyone here done a 4v head swap on a 2v block? I know it can be done its just a tedious process. I have found some sets of heads cams with timing chain cover on ebay from like 500-1200 $ but they are from older 4v motors like mid 90s would this stuff work. iv looked into a whole 4v block they are way more than a 2v dont feel like spending 6000 on a whole motor with 100,000 miles
 
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A search would have been the better option here as this topic has been covored countless times.

My reply to the same topic.....

It's "possible", BUT.....

You would need to swap:
upper/lower intake
injectors
rotating assembly
pistons
timing assembly
flywheel
alternator
....and a few other things.

Basically, its a big job and pretty expensive. It's a lot more economical to just drop in a complete 4V motor.
 
Has anyone here done a 4v head swap on a 2v block? I know it can be done its just a tedious process. I have found some sets of heads cams with timing chain cover on ebay from like 500-1200 $ but they are from older 4v motors like mid 90s would this stuff work. iv looked into a whole 4v block they are way more than a 2v dont feel like spending 6000 on a whole motor with 100,000 miles

Not sure why you're having a tough time finding an engine. In fact there is a complete '96 Cobra engine w/ only 70K miles that is painted very tastefully for sale in the SN classifieds section for only $2,600.

If you were to swap your 2V heads with 4V heads, you'd notice a significant drop in compression and would likely not even notice a performance improvement or performance would decrease.

What year is your car? FWIW, I have a '98 w/ NPI heads and all I've done is mid-pipe, cat-back, UDP's, PI intake and cams and I've got 240 RWHP and 280 RWTQ... which translates to somewhere around 280 FWHP and 330 FWTQ. If you have a 99+ GT w/ the PI heads, installing cams and doing the basic bolt on's could easily net 260+ RWHP which would be on-par if not an improvement above the early 4 valve Cobra's.
 
mine is an 04 so basically just find a 4v engine

Is there something wrong with your engine? It's an '04 and therefore has PI heads. With a pair of cams, LT headers, o/r midpipe, cat-back, UDP's, some intake upgrades and a good dyno tune you'd see at least 270-280 RWHP (~320 FWHP). This is comparable to any of the N/A Cobra's and you'd probably have more low-midrange torque. In addition, it would cost you less overall than swapping a 4V engine into your car.

Is there any particular reason why you want a 4V in your car? You have an '04 therefore it may be easier for you to just sell your car and try to find a 96-01 Cobra or 03-04 Mach 1. That would be less costly and less work than finding a GOOD used 4V engine and swapping it into your car.

If I was ever to swap in a used engine, you can bet I'd be taking it apart to inspect everything to ensure the new engine would run for a while. I'd hate to swap an uninspected engine into a car and have a problem develop 6 months down the road. Know what I mean?
 
dont get me wrong i love the mustang but every cobra ive come across has not been able to hang with my gt and i dont think they are that impressive unless you do some work and add ons. my friend had a nice 98 cobra and from a stop and a go run i pull on him so hard its hard to believe. and this was a stock gt. he has since then put a navigator motor in it and a newer cobra intake. from like the 99-04 cobra. its kinda hard to hang with him now though. before i put the dohc mark 8 in i wasnt doin to bad with the 430 gear. but he had no prob pullin away from me.
 
There is nothing wrong with my motor i was just thinkin the 4v would be better performance in the long run. If i got one i would go through the motor first. I just dont like that you have to use a stroker motor and a sc on a 2v to barely get 500 hp you can do that with a 4v with ease.
 
dont get me wrong i love the mustang but every cobra ive come across has not been able to hang with my gt and i dont think they are that impressive unless you do some work and add ons. my friend had a nice 98 cobra and from a stop and a go run i pull on him so hard its hard to believe. and this was a stock gt. he has since then put a navigator motor in it and a newer cobra intake. from like the 99-04 cobra. its kinda hard to hang with him now though. before i put the dohc mark 8 in i wasnt doin to bad with the 430 gear. but he had no prob pullin away from me.

Soooo, a Cobra or Mach needs bolt-ons or it will get smoked by your stock GT (non-5.0)? You must be lining up against some really crappy drivers.
 
dont get me wrong i love the mustang but every cobra ive come across has not been able to hang with my gt and i dont think they are that impressive unless you do some work and add ons. my friend had a nice 98 cobra and from a stop and a go run i pull on him so hard its hard to believe. and this was a stock gt. he has since then put a navigator motor in it and a newer cobra intake. from like the 99-04 cobra. its kinda hard to hang with him now though. before i put the dohc mark 8 in i wasnt doin to bad with the 430 gear. but he had no prob pullin away from me.

Early 96-98 Cobra's were not easy to drive and get good 1/4 mile times. That's why you see so many 99+ GT's hanging with them. In your case, your friends just didn't know how to drive them well enough as it doesn't take much to drive a 99+ GT (in other words they're consistent cars at the 1/4, whereas the 96-98 Cobra's are quite picky).
 
Although if no other mods are done, a 4V has better performance, I'm getting 500+ at the rear wheels on 91 octane. I can barely get traction with that and not much can hang with me, even at that level. I stick the programmer in my car, change to 100+ octane fuel and and 2 minutes later I can get 650rwhp. If I change the pulley and do a little more work, I'm probably looking at 750+ rwhp. So if you think you need more than that, go through the headache of a 4v swap. It's just not necessary any more.
 
I would ask what your primary use of the car would be. A 2V with a good supercharger or turbo makes plenty of power - more than stock internals can handle. If you are doing high revs and really working out the car then, maybe you would like the idea of half the moving parts in the valve train - half the valves come time for a valve job? There are some very impressive flowing 2V heads out there. There are benefits for both camps but in my opinion, I like the 2V better.
 
Although if no other mods are done, a 4V has better performance, I'm getting 500+ at the rear wheels on 91 octane. I can barely get traction with that and not much can hang with me, even at that level. I stick the programmer in my car, change to 100+ octane fuel and and 2 minutes later I can get 650rwhp. If I change the pulley and do a little more work, I'm probably looking at 750+ rwhp. So if you think you need more than that, go through the headache of a 4v swap. It's just not necessary any more.


your doing all this in a 2v?
 
A search would have been the better option here as this topic has been covored countless times.

My reply to the same topic.....

Call me stupid, but why do you need a rotating assembly, pistons, flywheel, alternator, and injectors?

i asked about the trick flows in my last post

Depends on your overall goals for the motor. The Trickflow heads are great, don't get me wrong, but they really only show gains over ported stock heads at much higher RPM. From 5000 rpm downward, the ported PI heads will probably make more power. Up to 6500ish, the gains are marginal. But at 7k+ rpm is where they REALLY make a lot of power.

That being said. Most folks don't build a street motor to make power at 7k+ rpm.

(Disclaimer: I don't have any first hand experience with these heads, but it is what I've read multiple times now by people who do know.)

Personally, I'd shoot this guy an email if you are really serious about building a motor. Modularheadshop - MHS