My advice:
Alternator pulley. Use an impact gun. Simple as that. I don't think there is another way.
Water pump pulley. I use a big flat-head screwdriver (because the shaft is square) or a pry-bar through the bolts to hold the pulley in place while you remove the bolts. It's a little tricky, but one you figure out one of them, the other 3 will come right out.
Dampener. If you have a small impact gun, you can use that to take the bolt off, but my IR won't fit between the pulley and fan/radiator. So you'll have to do it with a breaker bar (socket size is 18 mm, btw). If you have a 5-speed, you can put it into gear to hold the crank from turning. If you have an automatic, you'll have to hold one of the bolts on the torque converter (should be a 14 mm) with a wrench or small ratchet through the access plate on the front of the bell housing.
When re-installing the dampener, be sure to put a small dab of RTV in the keyway to keep oil from leaking out of it. Also, the bolt isn't going to reach initially. It's best to use a rubber hammer to tap it on, or a wooden board over top of it to keep from breaking the dampener.
And technically, the crank bolt is a TTY (torque to yield) bolt that should be replaced, and torqued to spec. I have reused mine several times with no problems, but I have always torqued it to spec (which is 60 ft-lbs + 1/4 turn, IIRC).
The motor will rev up MUCH faster with the UDPs. I think some of the old 2-valve guys recorded gains of around .1 and 1 mph in the 1/4 mile. Hey, they came on the '01 Bullitts stock, so they must be of some gain if Ford was willing to put them on some of their cars.