Repair or replace OEM C-Code Distributor ?

Have 66 289 C-Code running strange(coughs thru carb under mod. load) lately so rechecked timming: Int. @ 10 deg. and then upped RPM's to 3000 only added another 10 deg. for a total of 20-22 deg. (vac. adv. plugged) so for now i rehooked V/A up and made it come in quicker so know 30 deg. total. I was at 32 deg. total without V/A last month and 40 deg with V/A? I think one weight stuck? when I bought car vac. module had tear and you could smell gas in Dist. so thinking cent. weights(rusted) are stuck. Question should I (1) remove top plate and get down to weights/springs and fix/lube/replace or (2) just buy a rebuilt single point Dizzy at Autozone for $50 or would a small amount of WD-40 with small tube directed to weights to it without tearing apart. Sorry about long post and thanks for any ideas in Advance.
 
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IMHO, you could certainly try the WD40 and if no worky take it apart and try to fix it. Worst thing that could happen is you mess it up and have to buy another dist, which you list as one of your options anyway. If getting a new/rebuilt unit, I would look into one that eliminates the points, IE: Duraspark conversion, pertronix, or ??, or ??, etc. There are many choices available and you should do a little research before pulling the trigger.
HTH,
Gene
 
Thanks for info >

IMHO, you could certainly try the WD40 and if no worky take it apart and try to fix it. Worst thing that could happen is you mess it up and have to buy another dist, which you list as one of your options anyway. If getting a new/rebuilt unit, I would look into one that eliminates the points, IE: Duraspark conversion, pertronix, or ??, or ??, etc. There are many choices available and you should do a little research before pulling the trigger.
HTH,
Gene

Yes I hear you Gene. I missed out on a Craigs list stock dizzy with Pertronix conversion by one day $60. So there is some options out there, for now crank up the Vac. advance.LOL-----Have a good weekend-Doug
 
If everything is clean and functioning smoothly, you should consider having professionally adjusted, on a distributor machine. Typical cost is about $75. Results can be astounding. I've done them, and I've never seen one that was right when I started.
 
Setting up advance curve good idea

If everything is clean and functioning smoothly, you should consider having professionally adjusted, on a distributor machine. Typical cost is about $75. Results can be astounding. I've done them, and I've never seen one that was right when I started.

actually made a few calls last week to various shop's ,nobody has one so I'll take to classic ford shop down in San Diego cost $80. If I figuered out the time I spent timming/roatesting etc. having Dizzy curved for my driving needs is a no brainer.--Thanks
 
Thanks to all for info and help.

After an hour new distributor went in, only hitch was 1/4 " hex oil pump drive rod. I just rotated shaft until Dizzy dropped flush. I set intial at 10 deg. and mech. is curved for 26 deg. cent. all 36 in @ 3000 RPM= All is good and all past issues have vanished.
 
After an hour new distributor went in, only hitch was 1/4 " hex oil pump drive rod. I just rotated shaft until Dizzy dropped flush. I set intial at 10 deg. and mech. is curved for 26 deg. cent. all 36 in @ 3000 RPM= All is good and all past issues have vanished.

Hi,
Yeah that little rod can be a PITA. That's looks like a good curve. If you're running a vac canister,, it too, can be trimmed for a little mid-range performance, depending on how you're picking off the vac.
I'm running a '67 dizzy with a 16 degree initial, a mechanical of 23 deg. for an "all in" by 3100. I'm running full vac to the dizzy. I've tried both ported and full and my engine responds better to full vac.
Happy Trails!
 
Usually, a good baseline for the dual advance distributor, if you have an upgraded engine, is the BOSS 302 specs:

C9ZF-12127-E.jpg
 

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