In regards to the CPP kits mentioned above: I do not own one YET, but several members, here and at other sites have gotten them and been very pleased. In my case, I already have new, good quality
upper control arms with roller spring perches, so I plan to just get the "standard kit" (great price at $399) that does the just the
lower control arms. If I still had to do the uppers, I would get the "New Kit" with the new uppers. The whole concept seems well thought out and should help provide added rigidity and stiffness to the lower frame area. It will also make accurate alignment much easier and precise, especially on the 65-66 cars that originally require shims for alignment. That being said, even the original setup can be installed to reduce the number of shims by removing the mounting bolts from the shaft on the upper arms and turning the shaft 1/2-1 full turn to put in a little bit of positive caster before any shimming. Also/alternatively, when some folks do the Shelby drop, instead of positioning the new mounting holes for the upper arms straight down from OEM, they orient them 1/8" rear ward to get that positive caster. Using either or a combination of both of these methods will still likely require some shims to achieve your camber specs, but you will reduce the difference in the amount of shimming from the front to rear bolt, which is safer/preferrable IMHO. Of course, this caster issue is a somewhat moot point if you use the CPP kit. Whatever way you go, roller spring perches are a definite plus and the Shelby drop is a no brainer. As far as steering is concerned, if your car has OEM power steering and is leaking/needing repair, I would look into the Borgeson or other integral steering box upgrade and avoid the hassle, expense and aggravation of trying to refurbish the outdated/inferior OEM stuff. While the OEM setup can work "OK" when in proper order, it is becoming increasingly more difficult to get them into shape due to a lack of quality replacement parts. If steering is manual and you and the wife are comfortable with it, simply check/replace as needed, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm and the center link where it connects to the pitman arm. In all cases, it is important to find an alignment shop that actually understands how these cars are setup (most don't and can make a real mess of the alignment) and how to properly achieve your desired specifications. Her is a very informative read for you:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/drop
and this:
http://dazed.home.bresnan.net/bump
and this:
http://home.bresnan.net/~dazed/suspension101
Even if you don't do the work yourself, it is good to be armed with knowledge and info on how alignment works, if for no other reason than knowing if a shop is giving you BULLSHIRT! Many shops will tell you, while handing you a bill, that they "couldn't quite get it your specs, ya know, it's a 45 year old car, blah, blah, etc" and they are totally full of crap. If they are any good at all, they should be able to get the OEM setup within 1/10 degree and if you go with the CPP stuff it should be "Dead Nuts ON".
Lots to think about and research before you spend your $$$.
Just My $.02,
Gene