Preparing a 92GT for a 4,000 mile drive

[txcanyon]

I purchased a 92GT with a T-5, while I was home on my mid-deployment leave. It has approx 189,000 miles on it (carfax said it rolled over about 10 years ago from registration records). It has had a few updates from the previous owners. The stock exhaust had been removed, and an off-road xpipe was installed all it has is dumped flowmasters. With the loud exhaust it is hard to tell if it has any engine issues, but it drove magnificently and I took an '10 Camaro SS by surprise one late night in Sept on I635

The transmission exhibited some issues in 3-5th gears. And my brother took it to Dallas Mustang to get a new T-5 installed. They also checked/replaced the rear main and I had a new heavier duty clutch installed.

I bought the car and intend to drive it back to Alaska where I am stationed. I am setting aside money to get the car ready to make the drive without issues I hope.

It has been a while since I've owned an older model car and have to re-introduce myself to it's older tech compared to the newer cars of today.

I plan on doing the normal plugs/wires/distributor cap replacement, along with all the filters/oil. The car is a project to keep me busy when there is snow on the ground for 6months in alaska.

I wont be home till next spring so I have lots of time to research what all I should definitely do, as well as recommendations from fellow Mustang owners here.

Checklist for replacement:
Oil Filter
Air Filter (CAI type)
Fuel filter?
Drain/bleed brake system?
Spark plugs/wires/distributer cap/coil (any recommendations or go with FRPP?)
drain/flush radiator
check timing
remove mufflers from x-pipe and purchase a new GT exhaust

As Needed:
replace front rotors as needed/machine rear drums

This is my first Mustang (my brother had an older early 70 model coupe), and I am extremely excited to be driving, and working on it.

 

[betke76]

with that kinda miles ahead of you , test and or replace the battery,alternator, and replace the TFI module. its cheap enough and wont leave you on the side of the road. other than that these cars are as reliable as a new stang

 

[wythors]

I'd add replace and/or repack the front wheel bearings and servicing the differential to that list.

 

[cardudeusa]

I would also inspect/ replace tires if they need it.

 

[betke76]

also check serp belt

 

[ID89GT]

Id check for any leaks as well so you can keep an eye on fluid levels on the trip

 

[txcanyon]

Thanks for the obvious things i missed. I'll hold off on the diff servicing as I plan on doing a rear ring swap and 5/lug upgrade winter '12.

The battery is new, I put it on the car after I brought it home. The alternator is a new higher amperage type. I forgot I had a new flywheel installed as well and the starter was checked to ensure it engages fully and no missing teeth.

The previous owner thinks the engine was overhauled before he got it as it looks really clean (not washed clean but lots of new aftermarket parts installed).

I really didnt get a chance to look at it much after I got it home.. had to get to the airport to come back to Afghanistan.

 

[S&B]

make sure you do the work in TX then maintain the car and check levels as you go. I dont think it should be a big deal if everything is operating. should be fun. And the good thing is if something breaks on the way you know that someone has the parts with in a couple hours when your in the lower 48.

 

[dgollem]

If they are still on your car, remove the fog lights for the drive. Lots of gravel on the ALCAN and I would bet the fog lights wont survie the trip. Put them back on once you get there. Easy way to save some money. If your paint is good might also want to put a bra on for the trip. The car not you

Depending on what time of the year might also want to get some of those emergency snow chains. Can still snow in the mountain passes in late May early June. Stangs are not the easiest cars to drive in the snow

Its a beautiful drive have made it 3 times myself. Hope to do it on a bike some day too.

 

[vertvert]

You may consider taking a couple feet of 5/8" heater hose and a couple of clamps. It's a good chance the heater core will give out if it hasn't been replaced yet.

 

[txcanyon]

If they are still on your car, remove the fog lights for the drive. Lots of gravel on the ALCAN and I would bet the fog lights wont survie the trip. Put them back on once you get there. Easy way to save some money. If your paint is good might also want to put a bra on for the trip. The car not you

Depending on what time of the year might also want to get some of those emergency snow chains. Can still snow in the mountain passes in late May early June. Stangs are not the easiest cars to drive in the snow

Its a beautiful drive have made it 3 times myself. Hope to do it on a bike some day too.

Made the drive 3 times in less than a year. First time was dead of winter in my truck with a uhaul trailer. 2nd was August with my wife's Mini Cooper on a trailer driven from Fairbanks to Edmonton and back in a week.

back on topic: Good point on the fogs. One has a broken bracket anyways and will be replaced in Alaska when I replace the front bumper. I am driving it back in the summer, I dont think it would make it during the winter being a light rear wheel drive.

Also good point on the heater hose.. I used to drive a '73 F250 with a 390.. heater hose was always stashed behind the seats

I'll have at least 10 days in texas to work on it before we start our road trip (which will take it over 5k miles easily).

Whats the concensous on putting synthetic in it as opposed to older dino oil? My wifes car and my previous imports (Miatas) all loved synth. My truck has been using Synth SUV oil (Mobil 1) since I bought it in Mar'10. With the older engine I would expect some of the older seals to seep a little, but would it be enough to cause concern. My wife and I talked it over, the thought is no more than 500 miles/day, as sitting in a car for that long tends to make your butt sore.

Thanks for the thoughts and ideas.